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Old 07-07-2011, 11:13 PM   #16
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Starter Fertilizer for Sod


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Chips View Post
Plan to mow at a time when your lawn should be relatively dry. Mow it high, and cut it on a diagnal path. It sounds like you'll be using a new mower, but if not make sure the mower you are using has a sharp blade so you are cutting and not pulling/ripping. ( Even if you do buy a new mower you might want to get the blade sharpened before you use it )
Great Tips.

What do you mean diagnal path ?
Yes. I will be buying a new lawn mower.. How do I sharpen the blades ? How do I know the blades are sharp enough to use them for mowing ?

When you say cut high - means cut little ?

What do you suggest on the first cut ? Mulching or bagging ?

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Old 07-07-2011, 11:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoachDave View Post
Howdy Cprao,
It's great your taking an interest in your lawn. You'll find once you've got a system down that it won't be too difficult or time consuming. Here are my guidelines for a healthy lawn.

Always use your own lawnmower so as not to introduce other problems to your lawn. When you stop mowing for winter there is a gas additive to stabilize the gas so it doesn't go bad.

Mulching is good and and should only be done twice a month to avoid "thatch" with is a layer of organic material that could thin out your lawn. Mulching also re-seeds.

Fertilizing is only good when a lawn is established. Over fertilizing will not give you good long term results.

Always water after you:fertilize, cut, and seed. The exception is after you've sprayed an insecticide or fungicide...this is so you don't dilute the active chemical.

Lastly, when watering, only about 30 minutes per week is advisable. This is because grass roots chase water. So twice a week at about 15 minutes or three times a week for 10 minutes.

I hope this helps you achieve the lawn you want.

Here is a link of lawn ideas I did: http://community.homedepot.com/t5/vi...KDF7jFOD5ttGvA


Happy Gardening,

Coach Dave
Per Sod company, water schedule is like this:

First week - 10 minutes - 3 times a day ( 7 am, 11 am and 2 PM)

2nd week - 10 minutes - 2 times a day ( 7 am and 2 PM)

3rd, 4th and 5th weeks - 15 minutes -one time a day - 6 am

6th week onwards - every other day - 15 minutes at 6 AM.

Exception to the above schedule is - don't water during rainy days.

I am currently on the first week until this Saturday..
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:51 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cprao View Post

What do you mean diagnal path ?
I mean you laid your sod in a straight line from house to street, so when you mow start in one corner and go diagnally to the other and continue in the same fashion. Doing this will help limit the pull on the individual pieces of sod. Do this for the first couple cuts, but try to switch the corner you start in so you are cutting in a different direction each time. Once your sod really takes root you can mow straight across in both directions as well, but try not to mow in the same direction everytime. It's good for overall root health if you mix it up

Quote:
Originally Posted by cprao View Post
How do I sharpen the blades?
You can use a file, grinder, or have it done at a shop. If you do it yourself you can buy a little cone to check for balance

Quote:
Originally Posted by cprao View Post
How do I know the blades are sharp enough to use them for mowing ?
> As long as the blade isn't rounded over it will work ok.

Next time you are in a store that sells blades, run your finger across the edge of a new one. They are sharp, but not sharp enough that you'll get cut, kinda like the blade of a scissors. Personally I like to see my blade a little sharper as it makes for finer mulching.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cprao View Post

When you say cut high - means cut little ?
Yes. Adjust the wheels to the highest setting. Toward the very end of the season I will start gradually cutting lower so it looks less shaggy over the winter, but all other times i cut at highest setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cprao View Post

What do you suggest on the first cut ? Mulching or bagging ?
For the new sod i would just mulch. I bag the first cut of the year as that's when the weeds seem to be most active, so i figure there is no sense just dropping all their seeds back on the lawn by mulching, but after that first cut i mulch for the remainder of season. You are dealing with a newly sodded lawn in the middle of summer, so weeds shouldn't really be an issue for you
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Last edited by Mr Chips; 07-08-2011 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cprao View Post
Per Sod company, water schedule is like this:

First week - 10 minutes - 3 times a day ( 7 am, 11 am and 2 PM)

2nd week - 10 minutes - 2 times a day ( 7 am and 2 PM)

3rd, 4th and 5th weeks - 15 minutes -one time a day - 6 am

6th week onwards - every other day - 15 minutes at 6 AM.

Exception to the above schedule is - don't water during rainy days.

I am currently on the first week until this Saturday..
I agree with their schedule until it gets to the 6th week onwards.
Since you are dealing with new sod, the roots are still very close to the surface. This means that it is pretty much pointless to do a deep soak. The roots are close to the surface, and the surface dries quicker, so you need to give it a sprinkle a few times a day for sure

I believe that if you follow this schedule onwards you will have a beuatiful green lawn, as long as you don't go on vacation, or get water restrictions imposed. If you give them more water less often, the roots will go deeper to get water in between and you'll end up with a healthier lawn that won't start turning brown the first time you forget to water it for a few days.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:08 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mr Chips View Post
If you give them more water less often, the roots will go deeper to get water in between and you'll end up with a healthier lawn that won't start turning brown the first time you forget to water it for a few days.
When you say more water less often means - watering only once a week for 30 minutes or so...?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:37 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by cprao View Post
When you say more water less often means - watering only once a week for 30 minutes or so...?
i mean water your lawn when it needs water, and when you do water, soak it good ( but do it early in day so the surface has a chance to dry)

Obviously, your new sod is a bit of an exception. You'll water it every day for the first month or so because it needs water to take root, and because the roots are still shallow, you don't need a deep soak. but at some point you'll want to cut back on the frequency and give it more water less often.

Someone else here said the "roots will chase water". This is true. So if you water every other day for 15 minutes, and you live in a warm to hot climate, how much of that water is going to get deep in the soil? Probably not very much. This practice encourages the roots to stay near the surface, which is not what you want. If you water once a week for an hour, the water will go deeper, and the roots will in turn have to go deeper to chase the water it needs. This will result in a healthier lawn that will not need to be watered at all except during long dry spells
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:51 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by cprao View Post
When you say more water less often means - watering only once a week for 30 minutes or so...?
In managing turf in Northern California, we sought to provide an inch per week of water with irrigation as a starting point and assuming we were not being rationed so you Southern California types could keep you swimming pools filled with our water!

Obviously, some turf took less and some more watering time depending on outside temps, wind and so forth. Some budgets did not allow for this much irrigation.

In general, even well amended soils remained very clay base and it served no purpose to water beyond a certain point because it just caused all the air space to swell shut. Not good for root penetration and growth. However the goal was always to water as infrequently and deeply as made sense to encourage deep root growth.

You will have to feel this out as you go. Definitely water early in the day to minimize wind drift and evaporation. Keeping the turf grass dry overnight will discourage insects and fungus as well. Once you think you have a watering schedule nailed, check it by digging down with trowel and seeing what your turf layer and root growth into the soil under it looks like and how deep the wetness of the soil seems to go. In inexpensive soil core sample extractor will do and even better job.
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:16 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by sdsester View Post

However the goal was always to water as infrequently and deeply as made sense to encourage deep root growth.

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I got what do you meant by infrequent. But what do you mean by - Deeply ?

Means - more water ..
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:31 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by cprao View Post
I got what do you meant by infrequent. But what do you mean by - Deeply ?

Means - more water ..
Yes. If you want water to go deep, you need to give it more ( ie: leave the water on longer) so it has the chance to go deeper into the soil

If you water for 1/2 hour, the water should have the chance to get deeper into soil than if you only water for 15 minutes
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:48 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Mr Chips View Post
If you water for 1/2 hour, the water should have the chance to get deeper into soil than if you only water for 15 minutes
Unless, as mentioned, the soil is so clay it cannot take 1/2 hours worth but only 15 minutes at a time. It will just plug up with no air space for the roots if you over water and the roots will float on top of it or at whatever depth they are.

Aerating each year will help the roots grow deeper. As they grow, you will be able to water less frequently and for longer periods.
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:17 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Mr Chips View Post
Yes. If you want water to go deep, you need to give it more ( ie: leave the water on longer) so it has the chance to go deeper into the soil

If you water for 1/2 hour, the water should have the chance to get deeper into soil than if you only water for 15 minutes
Ok. Got it.. what a education !! Thank you !!
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:18 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Unless, as mentioned, the soil is so clay it cannot take 1/2 hours worth but only 15 minutes at a time. It will just plug up with no air space for the roots if you over water and the roots will float on top of it or at whatever depth they are.

Aerating each year will help the roots grow deeper. As they grow, you will be able to water less frequently and for longer periods.
I don't think what I have is clay soil..

how do I do aerating ?
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:59 PM   #28
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I don't think what I have is clay soil..

how do I do aerating ?
Sod is too young now but...

They sell aerators you can use manually or even hook to the hose. All golf courses used to require cleats for aerating close trimmed greens.

You can rent drum or other power equivalents that do many square feet at a time. It's hardly worth it though.

The fact of the matter is there are probably thousands if not millions of services in your area, listed in the phone book or online, that will come and do it for chimp change leaving tubes of soil that look like herds of deer left turds all over your lawn. Do check around with neighbors to see who they use.

If you have the time and patience, rake the soil plugs up so you do not dull your mower blade and even rake in the equivalent mass of organic matter (like wood mulch). The process will leave cores in the turf through which water, fertilizer will seep down and and roots can all expand. The commercial companies will have machines with enough weight to go deepest. Do ask them about when to water last before they come.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&x...og&sa=N&tab=wi

Right now, your goal is to get that sod married to the prepared soil under it. Punching a hole thicker than the sod layer serves no purpose now until it has transplanted and rooted. You could, in fact, aerate and send water deeper than the young roots can reach right now.

Last edited by user1007; 07-08-2011 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Sod is too young now but...

They sell aerators you can use manually or even hook to the hose. All golf courses used to require cleats for aerating close trimmed greens.

You can rent drum or other power equivalents that do many square feet at a time. It's hardly worth it though.

The fact of the matter is there are probably thousands if not millions of services in your area, listed in the phone book or online, that will come and do it for chimp change leaving tubes of soil that look like herds of deer left turds all over your lawn. Do check around with neighbors to see who they use.

If you have the time and patience, rake the soil plugs up so you do not dull your mower blade and even rake in the equivalent mass of organic matter (like wood mulch). The process will leave cores in the turf through which water, fertilizer will seep down and and roots can all expand. The commercial companies will have machines with enough weight to go deepest. Do ask them about when to water last before they come.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&x...og&sa=N&tab=wi

Right now, your goal is to get that sod married to the prepared soil under it. Punching a hole thicker than the sod layer serves no purpose now until it has transplanted and rooted. You could, in fact, aerate and send water deeper than the young roots can reach right now.
Great Education on Aerators. I read couple of articles on internet and grasped the general idea about aerators.

My grass is going good.. However I do see in couple of paces mushrooms are coming up.. what would be the reason for it ? and what should I be doing it to take them off.

I will post the photos later.. can't do it now since it is dark outside.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:38 PM   #30
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http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-M...0441837&sr=1-1

Black & Decker MM875 Lawn Hog 19-Inch 12 amp Electric Mulching Mower with Rear Bag

Is it a good one ?

Any suggestions?



Lawn mower for total 1500 Sq ft area of lawn. Both for mulching and bagging.

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