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Old 12-31-2010, 03:33 PM   #46
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Snowblower help.


Ok, I finally got the auger shaft out and took the gearbox apart and everything looked normal. I looked at the friction disc and it looks normal too. I wasn't sure about the friction disc, so I called Sears to see if they had one to order. The guy told me that the friction wheel has more to do with driving the wheels and not the auger/impeller. I also took out the shear bolts and they are in tact, however they do not look like shear bolts at all. A few years ago, I had the snowblower serviced and the place gave me extra bolts. I am attaching a picture of the disc and the bolt. The bolt has the marking 307A SBY, on it. I did a google search on it and someone else reported a problem with their snowblower and these bolts, but didn't get any answers from anyone. If these are in fact the wrong bolts and the gear box looks ok (to me at least), meaning nothing broken inside, then what else could this affected?
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:00 PM   #47
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Snowblower help.


The "right" shear bolts are relatively soft and will give way (shear) more easily so a jam up does not damage the rest of the machinery. The "wrong" bolts fit on the same way and look the same except for different markings on the head, and are too hard.

We haven't answered this question yet. When the auger stops under heavy snow, is the engine pulley (top pulley) up in the gear box area still rotating?

When the auger stops under heavy snow, can you push the idler against the belt more (using a stick) and make the auger start up again while someone else holds the lever on the handlbars?

On most snow blowers the friction disk drives the wheels only and can be adjusted to control the speed of the wheels. The auger does not have a speed control but its speed may vary depending on the choke position and should be going as fast as possible.
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Last edited by AllanJ; 12-31-2010 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:17 PM   #48
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Snowblower help.


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Originally Posted by AllanJ View Post
The "right" shear bolts are relatively soft and will give way (shear) more easily so a jam up does not damage the rest of the machinery. The "wrong" bolts fit on the same way and look the same except for different markings on the head, and are too hard.

We haven't answered this question yet. When the auger stops under heavy snow, is the engine pulley (top pulley) up in the gear box area still rotating?

When the auger stops under heavy snow, can you push the idler against the belt more (using a stick) and make the auger start up again while someone else holds the lever on the handlbars?

On most snow blowers the friction disk drives the wheels only and can be adjusted to control the speed of the wheels. The auger does not have a speed control but its speed may vary depending on the choke position and should be going as fast as possible.
When the auger stops, the pulley stops too. I clamped the handlebar down and tried to make the pulley start rotating, with a long screwdriver, but nothing happened.
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:01 PM   #49
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Snowblower help.


I am trying to reassemble the snowblower and I cannot figure out where the auger cable attaches to. There is a hole in the piece of metal that is attached to the end of the cable and a metal rod that fits into the hole, but the only way that I see it attaching that way, blocks the belt from moving. Does anyone have a craftsman that could take a pic of theirs or maybe tell me how to get it back on? Thanks and Happy New year!
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:33 PM   #50
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Snowblower help.


With none of the pulleys rotating and the augur is stuck in snow, prodding with a stick or screwdriver will not do anything. The problem is closer to the engine. Now we have to look for a spline or shear bolt in or near the top pulley that may be broken.

Shut off the engine and pull off the spark plug. With the auger still stuck in snow and while someone else pulls the starter rope handle very slowly, observe what is still rotating in the vicinity of the clutch. Carefully observe the end of the shaft (if visible) in the center of the top pulley to see if it is rotating while the pulley itself is stopped.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:01 AM   #51
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Quote:
When the auger stops, the pulley stops too.
Ayuh,... So you're saying that the small pulley in this picture, Stops turning,..??

I find that hard to believe, as that's the motor's crankshaft....

If this small pulley IS still turning, 'n the Big pulley attached to the auger stops turning,...
As I said before, the Belt is too Long....

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Old 01-01-2011, 02:35 PM   #52
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I've ruled out the woodruff key and the hi-pro key as they are on great shape as is the worm gear. I am attaching a picture of the engine portion of the blower. The upper pulley in this picture does turn, but hits a point where it is difficult to turn. I can get it past that point if I turn it hard enough, but when it revolves around to that point again it it tough. I don't know if this is normal or not, but if it's not, then this may be causing the stoppage. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:36 PM   #53
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I've ruled out the woodruff key and the hi-pro key as they are on great shape as is the worm gear. I am attaching a picture of the engine portion of the blower. The upper pulley in this picture does turn, but hits a point where it is difficult to turn. I can get it past that point if I turn it hard enough, but when it revolves around to that point again it it tough. I don't know if this is normal or not, but if it's not, then this may be causing the stoppage. Any thoughts?
That's when you're coming up on compression. It's supposed to be that way.
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:40 PM   #54
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Ok, that's good to know, thanks I'm going to reassemble it and see if it works. Maybe I loosened something up and now it will work correctly, you never know.
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:55 PM   #55
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Snowblower help.


I reassembled the blower and started it up. When I held down the auger handle all the pulleys spun, maybe because I took the all apart and loosened them up a little. Anyway, the belt definitely looks like it it too big now even after tightening up the auger cable. The manual calls for a murray belt model # 585416ma. I have 2 new 585416 belts, but after looking online, they are the same length as the ma's, which is 38 inches. I have the belt guides close to the belt, is it possible that I need a smaller belt than what it calls for? I don't see anything else to do to male the belt tighter.
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:01 PM   #56
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I reassembled the blower and started it up. When I held down the auger handle all the pulleys spun, maybe because I took the all apart and loosened them up a little. Anyway, the belt definitely looks like it it too big now even after tightening up the auger cable. The manual calls for a murray belt model # 585416ma. I have 2 new 585416 belts, but after looking online, they are the same length as the ma's, which is 38 inches. I have the belt guides close to the belt, is it possible that I need a smaller belt than what it calls for? I don't see anything else to do to male the belt tighter.
The drive belt should be very tight when engaged.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:08 AM   #57
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The drive belt should be very tight when engaged.
Yes, I think that's what the idler pulley does.
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:58 AM   #58
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The only thing I can see that it might be, now, is the the auger pulley. The inside of the auger pulley seems to be glazed kind of like worn brake pads. The pulley seems to be gliding by the belt. Do you think if I get a new pulley, that would fix it? I used a crew driver to push the belt as close to the pulley as I could and it turned the auger a little, while in snow, but it kept slipping. I looked on the sears parts site and they do not stock that anymore. The model is 536.886331, anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:10 PM   #59
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Quote:
The pulley seems to be gliding by the belt. Do you think if I get a new pulley, that would fix it?
Jeeze,... You say you've got spare Belts,..?? Have you put 1 On,..??

The BELT ain't gettin' Tight enough... Change the BELT....

There's NO reason what so ever to change a perfectly good pulley.....
Especially when the Problem is the BELT....
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:15 PM   #60
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The belt that I am using is the new belt. I agree that there is no reason to change a perfectly good pulley, but do I have a perfectly good pulley? Should I get a 37 inch belt as oppose to the 38 inch that is recommended by Sears and which is what I have now?

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