Small Yard, Tree Roots....?
I have a fairly small yard and in one corner there is a tree that is off my property whose roots are above the surface IN my yard. I don't want to ruin the tree, but I'd like to put in a patio with minimal cost/construction. I'm not much of a carpenter and I'm working on a small budget. It's really about having a solid ground on which to place a grill and possibly a patio set. I've included a picture of the problem tree below. Any ideas? I wanted to just do pavers, but don't know if it's possible without cutting the roots...
I'd call the city and maybe talk to the neighbour...I'd be interested to know who has the right to the tree roots if they impact your development.
legally the tree roots can be cut if they are on your property.
looking at the size of the tree you will not have any problems with the tree dying.
We have removed many tree roots to install patios and never has a tree died.
What about stability. It's South Florida...one small hurricane and an unstable tree will be toast....
[quote=longspur;761857]legally the tree roots can be cut if they are on your property.
looking at the size of the tree you will not have any problems with the tree dying.
We have removed many tree roots to install patios and never has a tree died.[/quote]
You may have but you have been very lucky. If you do not kill the tree outright, you will weaken it and it will then be susceptible to disease and or insect damage.
Healthy roots and healthy trees
Quick Facts ...
Most tree roots are in the first 6 to 24 inches of soil and occupy an area two to four times the diameter of the tree.
The roots of drawing water, oxygen and soil minerals. They do not grow into nothingness, or in any particular direction.
Soil compaction, change in soil depth and improper watering can damage the roots, which increases stress and susceptibility to diseases and insects.
To avoid root diseases, maintain a healthy, vigorous around a tree. Once a root system is severely affected, usually the tree should be removed.
The root system of a tree performs many vital functions. In winter, is a storehouse of essential food reserves needed by the tree to produce spring foliage. Roots absorb and transport water and minerals from the earth with the rest of the tree. Roots also anchor the tree to the ground. It is important to keep the portion on healthy soil to ensure an adequate supply of food for the roots to continue their important functions.
Where roots grow
The root systems consist of large tree roots perennials and small, short feeder roots. Roots large, woody tree and their primary branches increase in size and grow horizontally. They are located predominantly in the first 6 to 24 inches of soil and usually do not grow more than 3 to 7 feet. Root functions include conducting water and minerals, food and water storage, and anchorage.
By contrast, the absorbing roots, although averaging only 1 / 16 inch in diameter, constitute the bulk of the surface of the root system. These roots grow out smaller and especially the rise of the large roots near the soil surface, where minerals, water and oxygen are relatively abundant. The main function of the absorbing roots is to absorb water and minerals. Normally, the feeder roots die and are replaced regularly.
Roots large and small feeder roots occupy a large area underground. Normally, the root system of a tree extends outward beyond the drip line, two to four times the diameter of the average tree canopy
Why grow the roots where they do
The roots grow in water, minerals and oxygen in the soil. Because the increased supply of these materials are normally found in the topsoil, the greatest concentration of feeder roots exist in this area.
Other factors determining the growth of roots in soil compaction (reduction of air pockets resulting from soil particles are stacked) and soil temperature. In general, as depth increases, increases soil compaction, while the availability of water, minerals, temperature, oxygen and soil all down. In some cases, hard floor (hard layers) can occur near the surface, which limits the growth of roots.
The causes of root injury and illness
There are many ways to damage the roots of trees and tree stress. Some injuries are accidental and can not be avoided. However, most damage can be avoided with some care.
One of the main killers of urban trees is soil compaction. Soil compaction limits the absorption of water and oxygen by the roots, and is associated with roads, parking lots, pedestrian traffic, construction machinery, livestock, poor soil preparation, and a number of other factors.
Changes in the depth of the soil around trees can also cause damage to root systems. The addition of only 4 to 6 inches of soil in a root zone drastically reduces the amount of oxygen and water available to the roots
Other causes of root problems are more and underwatering, inadequate fertilization, and competition between the roots. Over-watering causes the soil pores (air) spaces to fill with water and restrict oxygen consumption. Underwatering not provide sufficient water for proper root development. Over-fertilization can injure or kill the roots, while underfertilization results in the lack of essential minerals to maintain a healthy tree. Competition for water and minerals from the roots of trees, shrubs, grass and flowers can seriously stress trees. Trees of stress if the routine preparation of soil for the roots of the tree's flowers damages.
Other practices that increase root injury and susceptibility to disease are: misuse of herbicides, deicing salts and other chemicals, injuring over excavation and trenching and the addition of mulch deep (more than 5 inches), the plastic or pavement that restricts or suffocates the roots. After a tree is established, anything that changes the condition of the ground or the supply of oxygen and water can be extremely harmful.
Types of root diseases
The two basic types of fungi that cause root diseases are the feeder roots that kill and those that cause cavities in large woody roots,. Many fungi are produced in small absorbing roots. The most common are the species of Phytophthora, Pythium and Fusarium. These break the feeder roots and reduce the minerals and the tree of water absorption capacity. The fungi that attack large, woody roots suppress the growth, decay, food transport cells, reduce the storage of food and reduce structural support for the tree.
Signs and symptoms of root disease
Typical symptoms associated with root diseases often confused with mineral deficiencies due to a large number of dead roots reduce the absorption of water and minerals. Symptoms of root disease are small, yellow foliage, chlorotic (Figure 5), reduced growth, burns, leaves tufted at the end of the branches, and branch dieback. Fungal fruiting bodies (mushrooms or stops working) at the base of the tree, and white fungal growth beneath the bark, also indicate a root disease. Symptoms of root problems of construction damage or other harmful activities can occur one to several years after the damage occurred.
Direct examination can verify an illness. Carefully dig up the roots by removing a small portion of the cortex. A brown discoloration under the bark indicates a dead root, while a healthy root usually appears white or light colored (Figure 6).
Control and Prevention
The most effective way to reduce the possibility of root injury and disease is to keep the tree healthy and vigorous. A healthy environment of the root is composed of a suitable space for the growth of root system, well conditioned, floor of 16 inches to 24 inches deep, and sufficient water and oxygen. To check the status of water and soil environment of the roots, dig a hole outside the drip line of the tree and determine if the soil is dry, wet or compacted. If you can not get the shovel in the ground, the soil is dry. Soil moisture is adequate if the soil can be turned into a ball with little pressure. Long, deep watering of the root system over time the soil dry out between waterings is best for the trees they frequent light watering. Watering once a month for a long winter dry is also helpful.
Avoid any practice that damages the roots. This includes: soil compaction, changes in soil depth, mechanical damage, and improper irrigation and fertilization techniques. However, if these practices can not be avoided, try to minimize damage.
To minimize soil compaction, remove compacted soil and replace it with compacted soil. Allow evacuation before planting. Use 2 to 3 inches of compost (peat, wood chips, bark) around the base of a tree to improve the availability of aeration and water.
Avoid fertilization damage by applying nitrogen fertilizer to established trees immediately after the expansion of the leaf spring, not in the summer and fall.
artificial palm trees
Lady you said a mouthfull. I would contact the neighbor and he and I would have some undersanding about how the tree is to be removed. If the roots are on your property and keeping you from using your property for whaterver you desire then you have the legal right to demand that the problem be corrected. I say have neighbor cut the tree. If he wants another tree then he should plant it far enough on his property as to not effect yours.
I like to be neighborly but this works both ways.
Maybe if you ask him he will agree and give you an easy out.
I had a neighbor once that had an old rotten wooden fence and it got to the point where it was litterally falling over in my yard. I asked him to restore or remove the fence. He did not so one day I just took it down and hauled it to the dump. He said he was going to sue me and I told him to go ahead. He later moved. Now I have put up a very nice stained wooden 6 foot fence which is very attractive and does not encroach on my neighbor.
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