Question on a Paver Patio

Chisel · 10-10-2009, 09:22 PM

Hi All: I would like some advice about creating a long lasting base for my paver patio. We recently had alot of rain here in Minnesota and the class 5 gravel I purchased was quite moist. Considering the time of year and the lack of time left to complete my project, I am leary about setting the pavers on a moist sub base and moist clay base below that. Can anyone tell me whether or not I should allow the gravel sub base to dry out and repack it or lay my sand and set the pavers. The frost line in this state are 30 to 36 inches deep at worst.

Thanks

concretemasonry · 10-10-2009, 10:41 PM

If you are using the most common type of paving stones (less than 10" in all horizontal directions), the recommended method is to put a 1" sand (concrete sand) over a compacted base (Class 5 is the local standard) that is graded to releflect the slope you want for drainage. After that the pavers are set, edge restraints installed and them masonry sand should be vibrated to even out the surface and get the sand into the the tight joints that provide the interlock and stability.

the frost depth is really not a major factor if you can provide drainage through a sand layer to make the lower moisture uniform. Highways are not bult much different for the loacal frost level if the lower soil has uniform moisture contents since the road, sidewalk or pation will lift and settle uniformly. People in Minnesota and other areas build structures on top of 4' or 5' deep concrete footings, but no roads need to have a 4' deep foundation, because heaving and settlement is relative.

Look at the sites for Anchor Block, Borgert Concrete and Versalok/Willow Creek for details. They are probably your local suppliers depending on your location or the dealer sites.

Dick

Chisel · 10-10-2009, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by concretemasonry

If you are using the most common type of paving stones (less than 10" in all horizontal directions), the recommended method is to put a 1" sand (concrete sand) over a compacted base (Class 5 is the local standard) that is graded to releflect the slope you want for drainage. After that the pavers are set, edge restraints installed and them masonry sand should be vibrated to even out the surface and get the sand into the the tight joints that provide the interlock and stability.

the frost depth is really not a major factor if you can provide drainage through a sand layer to make the lower moisture uniform. Highways are not bult much different for the loacal frost level if the lower soil has uniform moisture contents since the road, sidewalk or pation will lift and settle uniformly. People in Minnesota and other areas build structures on top of 4' or 5' deep concrete footings, but no roads need to have a 4' deep foundation, because heaving and settlement is relative.

Look at the sites for Anchor Block, Borgert Concrete and Versalok/Willow Creek for details. They are probably your local suppliers depending on your location or the dealer sites.

Dick

Dick; Thank you very much. It sounds like you have done this a time or two. My main concern on this project relates directly to the moisture content in the gravel base. It seems the dryer it is, the tighter the base compacts. Can I be relatively sure with using the right slope and locking in the pavers and edging, that the patio will stay put?

Thanks Jeff in Minnesota