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-   -   question about brick patio base (http://www.diychatroom.com/f16/question-about-brick-patio-base-148670/)

vipergtsxz 06-30-2012 01:32 AM

question about brick patio base
 
I'm building a 20' x 12' brick paver patio. The area I'm building on has a slope away from the house of about 11" at 12 foot. The patio is about 5 feet from the house. Since there's so much of a slope I dug down and built up the lower portion using landscaping timber. That way I wouldn't have to step down to the patio. This thing has just been one frustration after another. The ground was not dug out perfectly flat to begin with. There is so much rock in the soil it was a major pain. The end with the timbers has a depth of about 11 inches and the higher side closest to the house has a depth of about 8". I figured I could level it out using the base. I did for the most part using crusher run. A problem with the crusher run is I couldn't get it perfectly flat. I've been working in 100+ degree weather here in tn (not an excuse), but I couldn't for the life of me get it perfectly flat. Well, again I figured I would flatten it out using the sand base. I have two 1.5" diameter by 12' steel pipes I planned on using for the screeding, but since the base isn't flat, has a few high spots, the pipes won't lay flat. At one end or another they are off the ground an inch or so. And this is running the 20' direction.

So, what's the best thing to do from here? If I could find some 20' long steel pipe I thought I could level it out using that, but I can't find anything that long besides pvc, but that will flex too much. Sorry for the long winded question, I just want to make sure I tell the whole story.

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...z/IMAG0783.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...z/IMAG0780.jpg

concretemasonry 06-30-2012 06:49 AM

Are you using real brick or interlocking concrete concrete pavers (no dimension over 10" or so). There is a difference in the installation, but if you have any real loads, an interlocking concrete paver system is much stronger and stable. Since this is just a patio, strength is not that imprtant, but proper procedures are.

For an ICP installtion, the compacted base should the compacted road base and the top surface should be parallel to the desired top surface. The sand setting bed should be a uniform 1" thick (no more) and just be screeded off (uncompacted!!) using the edge restraint as a guide. Clean concrete sand should the used for the setting bed.

Set the pavers in the desired pattern with tight joints. Spread a thin layer of fine sand over the pavers and vibrate with a plate vibration to even out the surface and draw the sands into the joints that provide an interlock and the stability and strength. Thicker layers of setting bed sand can become wet and if the thickness is not uniform and the pavers (any type) can "swim".

These are internationally generally accepted international concepts for interlocking concrete pavers. Clay brick or cast concrete slabs may not have the dimensional accuracy and the small cast spacers cast in to provide uniform joints and consistent strength and stability.

Good luck.

Dick

Bondo 06-30-2012 09:23 AM

Quote:

This thing has just been one frustration after another. The ground was not dug out perfectly flat to begin with. There is so much rock in the soil it was a major pain.
I figured I could level it out using the base. I did for the most part using crusher run. A problem with the crusher run is I couldn't get it perfectly flat. I've been working in 100+ degree weather here in tn (not an excuse), but I couldn't for the life of me get it perfectly flat.
Ayuh,.... Because ya started out cuttin' corners, 'n didn't flatten yer base, nor the fill,...
Yer just compoundin' yer original issue, over, 'n over, 'n over again...

Donno how ya oughta "Fix" it now...

Canarywood1 06-30-2012 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipergtsxz (Post 954506)
I'm building a 20' x 12' brick paver patio. The area I'm building on has a slope away from the house of about 11" at 12 foot. The patio is about 5 feet from the house. Since there's so much of a slope I dug down and built up the lower portion using landscaping timber. That way I wouldn't have to step down to the patio. This thing has just been one frustration after another. The ground was not dug out perfectly flat to begin with. There is so much rock in the soil it was a major pain. The end with the timbers has a depth of about 11 inches and the higher side closest to the house has a depth of about 8". I figured I could level it out using the base. I did for the most part using crusher run. A problem with the crusher run is I couldn't get it perfectly flat. I've been working in 100+ degree weather here in tn (not an excuse), but I couldn't for the life of me get it perfectly flat. Well, again I figured I would flatten it out using the sand base. I have two 1.5" diameter by 12' steel pipes I planned on using for the screeding, but since the base isn't flat, has a few high spots, the pipes won't lay flat. At one end or another they are off the ground an inch or so. And this is running the 20' direction.

So, what's the best thing to do from here? If I could find some 20' long steel pipe I thought I could level it out using that, but I can't find anything that long besides pvc, but that will flex too much. Sorry for the long winded question, I just want to make sure I tell the whole story.

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...z/IMAG0783.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...z/IMAG0780.jpg


Two 10' long pieces of conduit with a coupling would give you 20' and are available at the box stores.

vipergtsxz 06-30-2012 01:09 PM

I am using 8" x 4" x 2.5" interlocking concrete pavers, not clay brick. You can see them stacked up in the background. I'm just not sure how people manage to get this crusher run perfectly flat, maybe I should've screeded it too before compacting it. I didn't see anyone doing it on any how to guides, and I read and watched as many as I could find on the web, believe me. Didn't think it was necessary to screed. I guess I was wrong. I'm gonna run by Lowes and pick up some 10' conduit and couple 'em. I've been having my father help out a little on this, and he tells me im trying to get it too perfect.. well, yeah, it NEEDS to be perfect!

GardenConcepts 06-30-2012 02:17 PM

If you had a laser level and a can of marking paint you can easily check your elevations and mark which areas need to be cut or filled- then compact and do it again. You can also use a string line and line level for this. The laser level is great for setting your screed pipes too. If you get your base within +/- 1/4" you'll be fine- then set your screed pipes (1" heavy duty steel conduit works great) using the laser or string line and screed away with the sand.


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