Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Landscaping & Lawn Care

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-14-2012, 11:41 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Pavers ~ Not for a Patio


I am looking at working on a project for my Eagle Scout that involves using 12"x12" concrete pavers for a 20'x7' landscaping mural on a small hill. This is not for a patio and will not be walked on. I will be painting a picture on these pavers.

Do I follow the same procedure as if it was for a patio; the same amount of crushed limestone, etc.? Also should I brace the bottom row of pavers so that they do not inch their way down the hill?

Thank you.

barrypatch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 10:05 AM   #2
DIY-er
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 148
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Pavers ~ Not for a Patio


The reason for installing aggregate under a patio is because the ground naturally shifts in wet conditions, particularly if you are in a freeze-thaw climate. The aggregate provides a place for groundwater to go, so that it doesn't accumulate and push up the tiles. I would still put a 4-6 inch layer of aggregate under the mural tiles just in case, particularly if you are in a cold climate. Make sure the ground is thoroughly tamped before laying the aggregate.

You do not need to put edging at the lower base if the patio stones are set within an aggregate base that has 4 - 6 inches around the entire mural. If you don't want to see an aggregate base, I would put edging there instead.

KevinPh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 03:53 PM   #3
Too Short? Cut it Again!
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,635
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Pavers ~ Not for a Patio


Whether and how to retain your mural depends on how steep the slope. I know you said a small hill but be careful not to underestimate the forces effecting pavers you put on the surface.

"A small hill" is rather a subjective description. And are you pulling up plant material that is holding the surface intact to put the pavers in place?
user1007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 04:09 PM   #4
Bombastic Idiot
 
notmrjohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mesquite, Texas
Posts: 761
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Pavers ~ Not for a Patio


sdsester said the key word, "slope." I think some good quality heavy gauge steel edging would work, again depending on the slope and weather conditions. A really steep location could require a concrete edge with a footing several feet deep.
Set the steel edging vertically not perpendicular with the slope.Hold the edging in place with 2' long sections of rebar not the puny spikes they sell with the edging. I don't even use those for lawn edging,1/2" rebar would be best, 3/8 mebbee. Pro'lly neither will go thru the slots in the edging for the stakes. Some edging needs a stake through the slots to hold the ends together so get a few stakes. Bend an inch or two of one end of the bar over at a right angle. Leather gloves, 2 pipes about a foot long that the bar will fit in , a bucket of water, a torch or forge, mapps gas gets the bar hot enough, mebbe propane I dunno never tried it. Heat the part you wanta bend untill it is dull red, slip one pipe up the bar to almost the bend, the other pipe a couple of inches down the hot end, hold the pipes and bend. Drop the bar into the bucket. A pair of long handle pliers or tongs helps manipulate the hot bar into the pipe. The angle doesn't have to be perfect, better too acute than not all the way to 90.
Hold the edging in place, a bar up against the outside of it and drive it into the ground while singing John Henry or Shake That Money Maker. If your gonna put aggregate or drainage rock against the edging then pavers, drive the bar down till the bent over part just hits the top of edging, measure back, lay first course of stones and fill the gap. If pavers against the edging, leave the bar up some so you can get a paver under it, lay a course, then tap the bar down careful not to break a paver if the end bends down some. You mite wanta extend the edging a few feet past the sides of the mural.
Railroad ties, or pressure treated 4X4 with holes bored for rebar also come to mind, possibly even 'landscape timbers.' And remember when buying supplies tell um its for a BSA Eagle project, you'll get at least a discount and sometimes folks have given us free stuff, sometimes over a 100 bucks worth, depending on project and likely hood of local publicity where they might get a mention. . Not that we promise them any thing but it don't hurt to hint. We have better luck with local dealers and suppliers than the big box folks like Home depot who got "Corporate" that they gotta go thru

Last edited by notmrjohn; 08-21-2012 at 04:14 PM.
notmrjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
landscaping, pavers


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For never-freeze climate places, do I really need 4" roadbase for patio pavers? htabbas Landscaping & Lawn Care 0 04-29-2012 08:24 PM
Small Pavers vs Patio Blocks - Installation Difference snowfiend131 Landscaping & Lawn Care 7 04-17-2012 03:33 AM
ceramic tile dust on brick patio pavers Paml Tiling, ceramics, marble 1 07-21-2011 06:15 PM
Patio pavers strong enough for a car? Clemsig07 Landscaping & Lawn Care 4 06-03-2011 08:28 PM
patio pavers or concrete patio in the great frozen northeast pitz71 Landscaping & Lawn Care 1 02-27-2011 09:33 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.