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barrypatch 08-14-2012 11:41 PM

Pavers ~ Not for a Patio
I am looking at working on a project for my Eagle Scout that involves using 12"x12" concrete pavers for a 20'x7' landscaping mural on a small hill. This is not for a patio and will not be walked on. I will be painting a picture on these pavers.

Do I follow the same procedure as if it was for a patio; the same amount of crushed limestone, etc.? Also should I brace the bottom row of pavers so that they do not inch their way down the hill?

Thank you.

KevinPh 08-15-2012 10:05 AM

The reason for installing aggregate under a patio is because the ground naturally shifts in wet conditions, particularly if you are in a freeze-thaw climate. The aggregate provides a place for groundwater to go, so that it doesn't accumulate and push up the tiles. I would still put a 4-6 inch layer of aggregate under the mural tiles just in case, particularly if you are in a cold climate. Make sure the ground is thoroughly tamped before laying the aggregate.

You do not need to put edging at the lower base if the patio stones are set within an aggregate base that has 4 - 6 inches around the entire mural. If you don't want to see an aggregate base, I would put edging there instead.

user1007 08-16-2012 03:53 PM

Whether and how to retain your mural depends on how steep the slope. I know you said a small hill but be careful not to underestimate the forces effecting pavers you put on the surface.

"A small hill" is rather a subjective description. And are you pulling up plant material that is holding the surface intact to put the pavers in place?

notmrjohn 08-21-2012 04:09 PM

sdsester said the key word, "slope." I think some good quality heavy gauge steel edging would work, again depending on the slope and weather conditions. A really steep location could require a concrete edge with a footing several feet deep.
Set the steel edging vertically not perpendicular with the slope.Hold the edging in place with 2' long sections of rebar not the puny spikes they sell with the edging. I don't even use those for lawn edging,1/2" rebar would be best, 3/8 mebbee. Pro'lly neither will go thru the slots in the edging for the stakes. Some edging needs a stake through the slots to hold the ends together so get a few stakes. Bend an inch or two of one end of the bar over at a right angle. Leather gloves, 2 pipes about a foot long that the bar will fit in , a bucket of water, a torch or forge, mapps gas gets the bar hot enough, mebbe propane I dunno never tried it. Heat the part you wanta bend untill it is dull red, slip one pipe up the bar to almost the bend, the other pipe a couple of inches down the hot end, hold the pipes and bend. Drop the bar into the bucket. A pair of long handle pliers or tongs helps manipulate the hot bar into the pipe. The angle doesn't have to be perfect, better too acute than not all the way to 90.
Hold the edging in place, a bar up against the outside of it and drive it into the ground while singing John Henry or Shake That Money Maker. If your gonna put aggregate or drainage rock against the edging then pavers, drive the bar down till the bent over part just hits the top of edging, measure back, lay first course of stones and fill the gap. If pavers against the edging, leave the bar up some so you can get a paver under it, lay a course, then tap the bar down careful not to break a paver if the end bends down some. You mite wanta extend the edging a few feet past the sides of the mural.
Railroad ties, or pressure treated 4X4 with holes bored for rebar also come to mind, possibly even 'landscape timbers.' And remember when buying supplies tell um its for a BSA Eagle project, you'll get at least a discount and sometimes folks have given us free stuff, sometimes over a 100 bucks worth, depending on project and likely hood of local publicity where they might get a mention. . Not that we promise them any thing but it don't hurt to hint. We have better luck with local dealers and suppliers than the big box folks like Home depot who got "Corporate" that they gotta go thru

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