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Murray tractor will not start
Model: 40563x86A - Lawn Tractor (1998)
I can jump it across the solenoid and it runs great. So, I'm thinking it's either a safety switch or a bad ground. Already put a new solenoid in and a fresh battery. I disconnected the seat switch, I'm assuming that breaking the connection on that one would work, cut the line and taped the end. When the motor is up and running the headlights do not work anymore, I'm sure that's an additional result of my original problem. The fuse at the solenoid is good. Is there a single safety switch wire I can disconnect to try and isolate the problem? Is it a bad ground or safety switch? Link to my wiring diagram: http://www.partstree.com You can copy & paste this 40563x86A into the model search field and click electrical system Thanks |
Do you have a link to the diagram? The one you provided went to their home page.
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The fuse next to the solenoid is good...
Battery is good, I have a charger, test shows good as well. But really irrelevant since it will start by jumping it. |
Sorry,
Both the clutch and pto are NO switches, while the seat is NC. Isolating the seat switch as you did eliminates it from the starting circuit. Take a 12v test light connected to battery ground, back probe pin 5 of the switch in the crank position. If it lights, bad clutch, pto switch or wiring. No light, bad ignition switch. |
The electrical system can be found by going to...
http://www.partstree.com Then copy & paste 40563x86A into the model search field. |
In that electrical diagram I think they have the PTO switch labeled incorrectly. With it disengaged, the way they have it labeled, sholdn't the black wire be completed and not the yellow.
For starting the mower I thought: Black connected all the way around is GOOD. Yellow connected is BAD That make sense or no? Can't test right now. |
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Look at the way they show the ground wire at the starter solenoid. They show two ground wires, one to the start switch and another to a chassis ground. Is the solenoid mounted to a good ground or is it insulated? If insulated, that could be why your lights don't work also. To test, I'd run a jumper lead from B- to the solenoid. |
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Thanks! I have an ignition switch on its way |
Just to confirm, you left the connector on the start switch and used a 12v test light to back probe pin 5 and the other end to B-, while turning to crank, and got no light, correct. Then bad start switch.
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