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Molds or pavers

21K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  RWolff 
#1 ·
I have an area, about 12 x 18 or 20 ft I want to make a patio area out of and then a small walkway off of that.
I have used a mold and concrete before for making a walkway and it looked fantastic. I have also used pavers to make a nice sidewalk. Honestly, the molded concrete one looked better I thought.
But, I've never used anything to make a large solid area like a patio.
What are you guy's thoughts on the differences of the two?
Cost, work, longevity, easy to add onto or change, etc.
Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Pavers are dried in near perfect conditions with heat and moisture controlled. Without a concrete vibrator, a cement mixer and under perfect climates you will not get a workable product. Read more on these things. I still would recommend not trying to make these yourself. 1) you will save no money, possibly more 2) results will not be near a purchased product.
 
#24 ·
Bob has it right. I use Hanover Prest Pavers on roofs. They are the only ones that hold up through freeze thaw. They are Pressed pavers, 8700PSI. They can take the abuse that mother nature throws at them.
 
#6 ·
I think for the sidewalk, the mold would be fine, if that's your preference. If you live in a cold climate though, with a lot of frost cycles, I dont think Quikcrete or the like will cut it long term. The DIY concrete doesn't have any air entrainment, which is crucial to it lasting in a cold climate. Maybe it's not an issue in your region.
For the patio, I would reccomend any kind of paver over the mods. Way too much area to do that process, meaning way more work & money than any other option. I dont think you would like setting a table & chairs over the stone molds either.
 
#7 ·
I think for the sidewalk, the mold would be fine, if that's your preference. If you live in a cold climate though, with a lot of frost cycles, I dont think Quikcrete or the like will cut it long term. The DIY concrete doesn't have any air entrainment, which is crucial to it lasting in a cold climate. Maybe it's not an issue in your region.
For the patio, I would reccomend any kind of paver over the mods. Way too much area to do that process, meaning way more work & money than any other option. I dont think you would like setting a table & chairs over the stone molds either.
This is the direction I think I'll go, basically combining the two methods.
Pavers for the patio and the sidewalk with quickrete in molds. I have never dyed the quickrete, so I might try that to match the paver colors.
This, I've decided, LOL, will be an ongoing project.
I am going to have some sort of lean to cover, something simple, tin maybe. I need to attach that to a ledger board underneath my existing roofline first and set those posts for that whole area, then build the patio/sidewalk around it. This is all on the backside of our brick home.
I think I must be going for a New Orleans/Caribbean look or something..:).
I'd like to find some cheap ornamental poles/posts for the cover. It's only about 15-20 ft long...I want to have a table and chairs underneath it.
 
#8 ·
Might I suggest you look into waterbourne or acid concrete stains that you apply to grey concrete after it's cured? The waterbourne is probably a better option for a DIY'er as it's safer & easier to get. You make 4 or 5 colors/variations & choose stones randomly to color.
 
#11 ·
I'm sort of rethinking this from a financial basis mostly, but also from a design perspective.
I'm considering basically making this a peagravel bed with some sitting/work areas that are made of either flagstones or nicer pavers.
The nicer looking designed pavers are really pricey, too much than I want to put in a 300 sq ft area (and buy a teenage daughter a car this summer:whistling2:).
But, pea gravel is pretty cheap and functional to fill in the areas I won't really need the pricey pavers in.
I'm sure there are some pictures out there of something like this.
 
#13 ·
I have contacted a guy who is coming to give me a bid on pouring a concrete patio and scoring it to look like tile. The cost of the concrete poured is about what pavers would cost me. My only cost difference would be the finished/scoring. BUT, I build websites as a sidejob and this finisher is interested in doing a work trade: he finishes my job and I build and maintain his website for his business.
Also, as luck would have it, my brother has decided to upgrade his outdoor spa and is giving his to me! It's 9 years old. 4 seater. But, the heating element went out in it. It shouldn't be that hard to change a heating element. We might get a new one someday, but for now, I'd be foolish to not try a free one first. This will be on a separate 10x10 pad that'll have a walkway to the patio. And I'll build a simple pergola over the spa to hang plants, robes/towels on.
My only hesitation is this patio will be poured over some utilities to the house. The underground electric mainline, and the outside water faucet. Should something ever happen, I'll need to rip part of the patio up to get to those pipes.
I can see this all unfold in my head, hope it goes as well as my head sees it. :)
As this job starts, I'll post pix here.
 
#23 ·
Devina, this is a four year old thread but if you need this type of mold for a similar project? I believe even hideous box stores sell the things in different patterns.

Depending on your project and how much concrete you have? You might contact local concrete artisans to explore concrete stamping. Concrete stamps come in all sorts of patterns but making it work takes real knowlege and craftsmanship.
 
#25 ·
I agree, trying to get concrete to cure properly with so little mass as that mold would hold isn't likely to go well.
They sell all kinds of pavers ready made, they sell cheap plastic or latex molds on Ebay to make your own too, but with one mold you are making 1 paver every 2-3 days since it takes that long before you can even get the cast out without breaking it.
I'm a sculptor and make rubber molds, but good rubber molds using quality materials is very expensive- $200 a gallon.
 
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