Metal Garage

luckybodog

Hi I build a Metal Garage and put it just on crush and run the left corner is flooding because the grounds high . I know I should have thought of that before,but after thought is like after birth to late. The Garage has three foot rods holding it down. I'm not sure what I should do . I have a phone line on that corner . That will probably cost a fortune to move its windstream . The guy that marked said it was a foot deep. The inspector passed it and said you need to slope it at 6 inches 10ft out. I understand that now. I wish I had talk to him first. Anyway the garage is level and that the only high corner.(The ground not the garage.) Should I move the garage and put two more loads of crush and run before I pour the concrete . Should I call windstream and cry. Should I move the phone wire myself . Should I just jump off a cliff and let the next man worry about it! Thanks in advance for your advice . I really need your help .

joecaption

Post a picture.
Trying to imagine why you did not pore the slab, making 100% sure it was going to come out at least 6" above grade and was not made bigger then the building so water would not come in under the wall, then build the garage on top of it.

Poring a slab inside of metal building would be a sure way to have the bottoms of the walls rust out from direct contact with the concrete.

luckybodog

That same corner has red brick under it. The guys that installed it put under it . Should I jack it up and pour the concrete? I don't won't it to rust or could I dig down after I fix the corner problem. I know this was stupid but like i said I can't take it back . What do I do? I took the pictures the site won't upload them is there another way to get them to you?

luckybodog

I think I got the picture uploaded . Let me know if you need more. Thanks for your advice.

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Bondo

Ayuh,.... In this picture,...
If ya lower the lawn around that sandy spot, the water will flow That way....

As it is, the water is dammed up, causing the poolin' yer worried 'bout...

You only have negative pitch for 'bout 3', where it should be 10', 'n a clear path(swale) to flow too...

Water,.... Flows, Downhill.....

joecaption

I just can not see anyway to just pore a slab inside.
It would not allow the doors to close all the way down so there would be an opening at the tops on the sides (open the doors about 4" to see what I mean), there would be no way to attach the shed to the slab.
Even if you formed it up around the outside walls it would leave gaps for critters to get in and will reduce the door header and ceiling heights.

luckybodog

What about this take the hold down rods loose all the way around the Garage raise one side up pour a 12x 24 slab at that one side let it set and then let it down and go to the other end and raise it up and pour the 12x24 slab then when that sets set it down and all that will be left is the middle . Its a 24 wide by 36 garage . Really only 35 long they count the eves. The raise can be done by my tractor forks. What do you think? Sounds Crazy I know but your right on the pouring on inside thing won't work. I don't like the critters on the inside thing either. The 12x24 or to be a little bigger maybe a couple of inches. What your thoughts? A mess I know.

Canarywood1

Is the ground that the garage sit's on undisturbed,and what part of the country do you live in?

luckybodog

Hi I'm not sure what you mean by undisturbed . It was scraped and leveled with crush and run stone. Then packed down with a loader. I have a permit and am legal to build . I live in northeast Georgia. I am just trying to get the garage right . I am not the smartest guy in the world but have good intention to do things right. To bad there no do overs! This was a real screw up. Thanks in advance for your help!

Canarywood1

If you think you can raise the garage without bending the oppisite end of the wall,then that's really the only option you have,don't know what gauge metal the garage is but as you raise the end have someone at the other end watching for any sign of bending,and if you can pour the slab,try to get at least 4 inches thick,you will also have to set some hold down's in the wet concrete so you can bolt it down on top of the slab.

AllanJ

You need to regrade the land all around the garage so water does not pool up against the sides of the garage.

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The disadvantages of crab apple trees. In summer, the apples are too sour to pick and eat. In winter the birds come and leave dropping all over the place.

luckybodog

The rail structure is 2 1/2 Square 12GA steel my only concern is the center portion in between the the two 10x8 doors that's only 1ft and 6 inch span. Unless I had that jacked up by someone why I lifted the end. I'm only going to move this about 2 inches at a time setting it on a a red bricks until I get it high enough to put more gravel down . I think that would be better to get the drainage right. Broke for the moment waiting for a recovery on the cost of the garage. Thanks for your advice.

AllanJ

If you are going to raise the garage rather than disassemble it so you can pour a slab, I would suggest not raising it more than 1/2 inch at a time. In other words, more gradually to prevent warping or buckling.

__________________
The disadvantages of crab apple trees. In summer, the apples are too sour to pick and eat. In winter the birds come and leave dropping all over the place.

luckybodog

Hi I know the the tractor can pick up 2800 lbs . What do you think the building weights? Its a 24x36 the garage doors are 10x8 . The metal frame is 12gauge I'm not sure about the painted tin 24 gauge maybe. What do you think the total weight is? Thanks for your help.

luckybodog

They moved the phone cable today! I will be getting it graded soon. Thanks again for all the advice.