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Old 06-19-2009, 11:02 AM   #31
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Interlocking Block Garden Wall


A pro might weigh in and disagree with me, but...

1. I don't think you need to worry about the tree roots.
2. No need to put crushed stone in front of the wall. I think I'd make sure the grade slopes away from the base of the wall slightly.
3. I don't think you need perf pipe behind the wall if you back fill with gravel and use filter fabric.

Looks to me like you have a pretty stout wall given the relatively low height. i.e. large blocks, stepped back etc..

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Old 06-19-2009, 01:35 PM   #32
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No pro, but I agree with Joe^
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Old 06-19-2009, 01:38 PM   #33
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thanks guys! I am almost done course #1, so I should get this done soon.
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:36 PM   #34
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Figured I'd start a new thread since I have a new question.

I am trying to estimate how much stone (3/4" clean crushed) to purchase as backfill for my retaining wall project. (I am sure I should know how to calculate this!). Course #1 consists of 20 11.5" long blocks. The blocks are 4" high and I have gone 5 courses high. I am not sure how high I have to go with the crushed stone; I think I saw at least 6" on a site, but I have to check.
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:27 PM   #35
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The stone is sold by the cubic yard. One cubic yard is 27 cubic feet. (3x3x3). One cubic yard will weigh about one ton. Its also about one "scoop" of a front end loader at the supply yard. Around here, one "yard" meaning a cubic yard sells for about $20-$30 not including delivery.

if your wall will have 1 foot of stone fill behind it and is 10 feet long and 3 feet tall you would need 3x10x1 or 30 cubic feet or a little more than one cubic yard.
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:32 PM   #36
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thanks Brik!
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:27 PM   #37
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I still have some work to do but the bulk of the job is finished. Becuase my property slopes ,only 2 of the 4 rows are visible on the high end. Does that look odd?

Left to do

finish adding dirt in front of blocks
backfill 3/4" clean crushed
level dirt behind wall
add some plants
replace downspout extension
reseed lawn
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:29 PM   #38
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This is the BEFORE pic
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:52 PM   #39
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Interlocking Block Garden Wall


Looks good
I think I might have dug the other side out
But sometimes thats a lot of work
I hope you didn't bury the 2 rows.
I just use rock under level of the ground to bring it up to where I need it
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:19 PM   #40
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Scuba,

Thanks for the reply. I did bury the two rows. So you would dig out some of the dirt that is blocking these two rows on the high end? I don't mind doing the work, but I have to figure out what to do with all of the dirt. I already have a large pile behind my garage (don't tell my wife!)
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:42 PM   #41
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As long as it wouldn't create a slope towards the house - yes
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:34 PM   #42
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Personally, I like when the grade changes at the bottom of the wall, & the top carries through at the same height the whole way. I've done quite a few Versa-Lok walls through the years, & I have to say, stepping the top of the walls takes alot away from the wall asthetically, IMO. As for your wall, the grade change is so subtle, I wouldn't bother digging any more soil out. The only thing I would possibly recommend, & this is definately preferance, & a lot more work, but a solid cap with an inch of overhang over the front of the wall would look very nice. To me, that's usually the difference between an OK wall & a great wall. Either way, good results for all the labor it ensued.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:22 PM   #43
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I've thought about adding the capstones. Depot doesn't carry them, but I can probably get them somewhere else. Do they have to be cut, or do they just line up?
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:53 PM   #44
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Normally, they are made to fit without modification on straight walls, but definately need modding on radiuses. That's why I mentioned it would add alot more time, but it may be worth it.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:39 PM   #45
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It looks great and that is the best way to do it. For more sloped sites the first course can be stepped as long as you have the proper burial depth for that part of the wall.

The better retaining wall suppliers usually make caps with square ends and slightly mitered (either short front or short back) that can be combined to make different radius turns (inside or outside corners). Some people chose to go with unsplit caps to provide a more finished top.

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