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Interlocking Block Garden Wall

23K views 47 replies 11 participants last post by  Scuba_Dave 
#1 ·
I'll let you know up front I've never done this before, but I am a firm believer in learning as much as I can and being patient, so that the end result is a project well done.

So far I've dug a trench. Yesterday, I had some help. I was pressured a bit by my well meaning but pain in the butt! dad to move a little quicker than I have been.

We put a layer of stone down and some paver base. The problem is there is still a decent slope in the trench. (in the photo below the ground slopes from bottom of the screen to the top).

Somebody who has done this before said I should probably build up to the higher end by digging deeper on the low end and adding an extra row of rocks.

You may be able to detect the slope of the trench in this picture.
http://tinyurl.com/czn3f2

I know I should have done this better before adding the stone, but I set the stones to the desired height, 3 rows up. I then pulled a string so that it was at the same height and then I used a line level to make sure the string was level. This morning I made a water level and I think I am going to use that to get a level line.

http://tinyurl.com/cdqc82 http://tinyurl.com/dxlgtq http://tinyurl.com/dc7b2s

I am now going to have to work on digging the low end deeper. So I will remove the stone we put down and dig deeper to add an additional row of stone, otherwise if I try to level the low end with the high end, some of the first row will not be below grade. Rookie mistake, but I will fix it.

Some earlier pics
http://tinyurl.com/ccf438 http://tinyurl.com/dbhb5l http://tinyurl.com/cl84bm

Thanks for taking a look.
 
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#27 ·
3 Retaining Wall Questions

1. My trench is about five feet from a maple tree. I am noticing tree roots as I dig. Most are small, a few a about 1/4". Is this going to be a problem? If so, is there anything I can do? The roots move toward the front of the wall.

2. Am I supposed to put any crushed strone in front of the interlocking wall blocks, or do I just fill with dirt?

3. Should I put a perforated pipe behind the wall? The wall will be 16" high. One foot above grade. I am going to use 3/4 clean crushed behind the wall.

Thanks!
 
#31 ·
A pro might weigh in and disagree with me, but...

1. I don't think you need to worry about the tree roots.
2. No need to put crushed stone in front of the wall. I think I'd make sure the grade slopes away from the base of the wall slightly.
3. I don't think you need perf pipe behind the wall if you back fill with gravel and use filter fabric.

Looks to me like you have a pretty stout wall given the relatively low height. i.e. large blocks, stepped back etc..
 
#34 ·
Estimating Back Fill

Figured I'd start a new thread since I have a new question.

I am trying to estimate how much stone (3/4" clean crushed) to purchase as backfill for my retaining wall project. (I am sure I should know how to calculate this!). Course #1 consists of 20 11.5" long blocks. The blocks are 4" high and I have gone 5 courses high. I am not sure how high I have to go with the crushed stone; I think I saw at least 6" on a site, but I have to check.
 
#35 ·
The stone is sold by the cubic yard. One cubic yard is 27 cubic feet. (3x3x3). One cubic yard will weigh about one ton. Its also about one "scoop" of a front end loader at the supply yard. Around here, one "yard" meaning a cubic yard sells for about $20-$30 not including delivery.

if your wall will have 1 foot of stone fill behind it and is 10 feet long and 3 feet tall you would need 3x10x1 or 30 cubic feet or a little more than one cubic yard.
 
#37 ·
retaining wall---how does this look?

I still have some work to do but the bulk of the job is finished. Becuase my property slopes ,only 2 of the 4 rows are visible on the high end. Does that look odd?

Left to do

finish adding dirt in front of blocks
backfill 3/4" clean crushed
level dirt behind wall
add some plants
replace downspout extension
reseed lawn
 
#40 ·
Scuba,

Thanks for the reply. I did bury the two rows. So you would dig out some of the dirt that is blocking these two rows on the high end? I don't mind doing the work, but I have to figure out what to do with all of the dirt. I already have a large pile behind my garage (don't tell my wife!)
 
#42 ·
Personally, I like when the grade changes at the bottom of the wall, & the top carries through at the same height the whole way. I've done quite a few Versa-Lok walls through the years, & I have to say, stepping the top of the walls takes alot away from the wall asthetically, IMO. As for your wall, the grade change is so subtle, I wouldn't bother digging any more soil out. The only thing I would possibly recommend, & this is definately preferance, & a lot more work, but a solid cap with an inch of overhang over the front of the wall would look very nice. To me, that's usually the difference between an OK wall & a great wall. Either way, good results for all the labor it ensued. :thumbup:
 
#45 ·
It looks great and that is the best way to do it. For more sloped sites the first course can be stepped as long as you have the proper burial depth for that part of the wall.

The better retaining wall suppliers usually make caps with square ends and slightly mitered (either short front or short back) that can be combined to make different radius turns (inside or outside corners). Some people chose to go with unsplit caps to provide a more finished top.
 
#47 ·
this project has cost me 365.52. I had to buy all of the tools (wheelbarrow, 4' level, sledge hammer...). I still have to buy the crushed stone for the backfill. If I can get a truck, that will be a small expense (I think). What do you think a pro would have charged?
 
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