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Old 09-04-2012, 09:53 AM   #1
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How to? Pool Deck Planter

When I build my pool deck I left (2) 2' x 2' openings in order to build a planter over plan is to build the planter with concrete blocks for strenth and finished with rocks in the outside. It would look similar to the attached pic. What can I do to provide more strenth on the walls?..I am planning to put a Southern Wax Myrtle Bush in the planters. What else should I consider? for lights? irrigation?
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Last edited by fta123; 09-04-2012 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:57 PM   #2
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Weight would concern me a bit. I would build them out of treated wood with exterior glue and nice galvanized fasteners. Fiberglass the interiors making sure not to cover adequate bottom drain holes. Then buy liners. You, or your nursery or florist can get them in just about any size and configuration you can imagine and in different gauge thickness of plastic.

Run water supply for drip irrigation and water in gallons per hour not gallons per minute like out the end of a hose or with conventional bubblers or sprinklers. Plants will love it and it just makes sense!

I would run some PVC as conduit for low voltage lighting and cap it off if you are not going to install lights right away. If you are flush, you could go ahead and run low voltage wire for direct burial through it too.

How far is the new deck from a hose bib? You might want to put a hose bib closer for cleaning it with a shut-off valve near the house in case something goes wrong. Having one close will save you have to drag 50-100 feet of hose around.

Where are you by the way? I assume down south of me by a few yards and across the Mason Dixon line? You might want to update your profile with basic information.

Remember anything in a planter is going to be extra susceptible to heat and frost stress. Drip will help with the water aspiration and heat as will the stone or faux stone veneer. I wonder if a 2x2x2-3 planter is going to be enough space (especially deep enough) for a mature southern wax myrtle? No problem if you build pulling it out and root pruning it now and then into your maintenance plans I guess.


Last edited by user1007; 09-04-2012 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:01 PM   #3
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You can fill the concrete block with 1-inch aggregate to give it more strength, but since the walls are low, you probably won't need it if you are cementing the concrete blocks together.

The most important thing to remember is to leave weeping holes a few inches above the ground level so that the water in the planter can escape. Just make sure that you leave a 1/2 inch gap between two concrete blocks and insert a small PVC pipe between them to convey the water - and do not cover it with the stone veneer or the water will be trapped and the stone veneer will pop off. You can put cement above the PVC pipe between the concrete blocks. On the interior of the planter, you should place a 3 inch layer of aggregate where the PVC pipe is so that soil does not enter and clog the pipe. If you live in an area of freeze and thaw, the interior of the concrete block should be filled with 4" thick layer of aggregate, otherwise, the wall will fall over. Make sure you install at least 1.5 concrete blocks under the ground level to give the planters an adequate support base. The concrete blocks should be placed on a compacted layer of aggregate, 6" deep.

It's a good idea to stagger the concrete block for added strength.

Hope this helps.

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Old 09-06-2012, 12:09 PM   #4
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I also would use foundation sealer on the inside to seal the blocks.
Another option to the faux stone would be agrigate panels cut to size.
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