How to bring life back into this lawn?

argh

It's now September, which for LA, CA (zone 10) and St. Augustine is the right time to fertilize. However, before getting into that, what will quickly eradicate the rampant infestation of this weed? http://yfrog.com/7flawn4jx

Also, the lawn hasn't been fertilized in probably 5+ years. I'm guessing a complete fertilizer is needed. Beyond that, I've never fertilized grass before so any other pointers would be appreciated.

ferris13

You need to find a local nursery. See if they have a soild test kit. A soil test will tell you what nutrients are lacking and often provide a recommended fertilizer program to follow.

Handy Vinny

"Quickly" is usually not the best approach with lawns that one is trying to nurse back to health.

Yes, you do need to go to a nursery; in fact, see if you can get one of their professionals to come out and evaluate the situation, personally. He or she will be able to tell you what type of fertilizer is appropriate for your situation. They may also recommend an aeration and possibly a dethatching; though, dethatching is typically done in the spring in my neck of the woods.

Good luck.

argh

Bringing the lawn into a greener state is the goal, but as mentioned there are large patches of weeds (specifically those detailed in the photos). So, in terms of that I should still run fertilizer over it after finding out the appropriate type? Just want to be sure since there was not specific mention of how to tackle the weeds.

Thanks.

downunder

Sorry, I'm not familiar with that weed. I would suggest take a sample to your local nursery if you have a good one nearby or your county extension service office. Photos are good but I just don't know it in my area. Just for my learning, I'll try to ID it for you but no promise.

Aeration would not hurt since it's been several years and a lower N fertilizer application. I would see something like a 16-4-8.

PS: I don't like the granular "weed and feed" formulas mainly because I don't see good weed control with post emergent granulars. If you read the label on granular weed killers, it says to apply to wet grass and do not water in. The label on fertilizer says to apply to dry grass and water in. The granules stick to wet foliage. Fertilizer will burn little holes all in the leaves; herbicide has to make contact with and stick to the leaves (without washing off) to be effective. You can see the dichotomy there.

After closing, I'm thinking that this could be the smaller variety of crabgrass. What we have around here grows several feet across but there is another one that is smaller. The hairy stems look like crabgrass, but the internode spacing on yours is much closer than what I have seen here.

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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. If you wouldn't put your name on it, it ain't done right!

downunder

Try this info:
http://www.backedbybayer.com/BAYER/C...WG%20Label.pdf

Bayer Celsius
I have not used this but it is labeled for your application.

__________________
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. If you wouldn't put your name on it, it ain't done right!

argh

I've found the plant to be Kikuyugrass, an extremely aggressive non-native perennial weed. I would estimate roughly 75% of the lawn is this weed. I realize I'll most likely have to start over, but that will have to wait till the right season in the future. Are there any methods I can employ to somehow halt the growth of the weed where there are major patches (not watering it doesn't do much - as soon as any water hits it (rain or other), it springs back to life)?