grass clippings ?
i removed a walk from the front yard. i am filling the 6" deep hole with fill i am getting out of a space in my basement. this fill is top soil = never excavated when the house was built. but it has not supported vegetation in up to 100 years. i want to add something to make the new grass grow better. i am thinking i could cut the grass and put the clippings in the hole, then cover with new/bought top soil. then seed or sod(<if its economical).
watcha think ?
Any green mater will help.....If your that concerned, get a bag of Amend and mix in with it. If your going to sod....not a big deal....just put down the fertilizer before you put down the sod.....but if seeding....yea, you might want to do more..hopefully the expert will be along shortly....
On a side but related note....I really doubt 100 year old soil will hurt anything...at least you know it doesn't have weed seeds in it...
yeah, i don't think the 100 y/o dirt is bad. but i am thinking that the nutriants in it are a bit depleted. idk though.
i will do sod, if it is cost effective. idk what sod cost.
i am trying to find out what sod cost. what a pita. i get everything but.i am going to look into those grass mats.
Until they are decomposed, your grass clippings layered under topsoil are not going to do you much good. Remember the decomposition process actually draws nitrogen from the soil that would normally go to the plants.
If you are just filling in where the sidewalk was you can probably just prep and seed. This is probably overkill but here is the usual process for planting new turf.
Whether seed, hydroseeding or sod the prep is essentially the same and you should not skimp if starting over.
1. Get a soil test.
2. Use Round-up to kill any weeds and wait until it does its thing. And/or...
3. Add ammendments to improve the soil texture and minerals to balance Ph per the soil lab recommendations. Rough till the soil to fold all together. Remove any weed or vegetation clumps, rocks, etc. Shape to rough grade.
4. Install irrigation systems if in your plans. Leave the heads above grade.
5. Till the soil again folding in a starter fertilizer (unless hydroseeding) and pulverize to a fine soil mix. Rake to final grade.
6. If laying sod, wet the ground thoroughly and roll out sod harvested within 24 hours if possible and never more than 48. Sod dries out very quickly. Water it as you go---do not wait to finish laying it.
7. If seeding broadcast the seed evenly and cover with a top dressing of peat moss, redwood mulch or straw (never hay as it has too many seeds of its own). Now is a great time to buy seed because you can make your own custom mix and buy and bulk this time of year.
8. With either sod or a seeded lawn, roll it all with a landscape roller half filled with water. If you do not make contact between sod and your prepped soil you could end up growing just the sod layer. Likewise if the seed is not in firm contact with the soil it will sprout into thin air and die.
9. Consider hydroseeding if you have a fair amount of lawn to plant or can wait to tag on to a job when a contractor in the area. It will establish faster than sod and for a fraction of the cost. You do not want to roll a hydroseeded lawn but you may want to roll before the process. Ask the contractor.
Hydroseeding is a process where a slurry of seed, fertilizer, and a protective crust are sprayed on a prepped seedbed. It will cling to slopes and germinate quickly.
10. With seeded or hydorseeded lawns you need to keep the seeds moist until they germinate. Perennial ryes will sprout in 7-10 days but fescues and bluegrasses can take 14-28.
11. Sod is a transplant product and do not underestimate the amount of attention it can take to get it to root into the soil. Keep an eye on it and water appropriately. Try not to walk on it anymore than you have to for the first month and until roots establish in the soil.
12. Make sure your mower blade is sharp and mow most turfgrasses tall. Most modern mowers are mulching type so you can return the clippings to the lawn unless you are experiencing problems with insects or fungi.
13. Once the turf has taken and settled, adjust your sprinkler heads to grade.
14. Gradually increase the amount of time you water but decrease the frequency to encourage deep root growth and drought resistance. Do not over water though.
15. Put your turf on a maintenance schedule for nutrients, weed and pest control, aeration and de-thatching.
Obviously prices vary quite heavily by location.. but around here, sod is about $1.50/sq yard (Bermuda, delivered, not installed). After seeing sdester's posts in several threads recommending Hydroseeding, I am certainly going to consider it when I get ready to redo my lawn.. the cost around here between .06-.12/sq ft, so about 30% cheaper all in all, roughly, and it will save me several hours of labor and a couple thirty-packs. Certainly worth looking into!
However, to temper your enthusiasm a little bit...
Bermuda can be hard to establish from seed so if that is the type lawn you want? You might have to turn to sod or plugs.
It is not especially drought resistant. It is very high maintenance, you have to mow it short and feed it extra since the nutrients leach past its shallow roots quickly, and it goes dormant in the winter. If you take care of it, it looks gorgeous in season. Regular aeration and de-thatching is critical.
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