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jackofmany 08-25-2010 08:05 AM

Finding elusive "up pipes"
I'm nearing the end in my search for 1/2" up pipes on a 15 year old lawn irrigation sytem. Most of the process has been done by probing with steel rods to ascertain and map the 1" piping, which is very deep for Charleston, SC at about 16" on average. Fortunately I was able to locate valves with the help of the original owner. It is an entirely manual system. Does anyone have any ideas other than the "poke and pray" method I've been using? Finding a capped off up pipe is pretty tricky this way. Also - just how important is it that you do not mix sprinkler types in one zone?

downunder 08-26-2010 04:00 PM


Also - just how important is it that you do not mix sprinkler types in one zone?
What do you mean by "types?" As long as the pressure range is the same and the total GPM does not exceed the capability of the supply line, you should be good.

jackofmany 08-27-2010 06:37 AM

Makes sense
Thanks for the response. By "types" of sprinklers, I was referring to Pop-up pattern versus Rotor. You confirmed my suspicion that the key denominator in this is what the system will handle. It is a new area for me, having done plumbing as needed but never touched an irrigation system. I'm just glad it's in the Low Country where the soil is so user friendly. Again thank you

swade 09-10-2010 09:46 PM

I am a little late to the party but you want to try and match the precip rate on a particular zone. Typically pop ups and rotors do not match in this regard.

For example a 15h spray nozzle will put down 2+ inches of water in an hour, a rotor is more like .2 per hour(they cover a larger area). The area covered by the spray will be flooded by the time the rotor area has sufficient coverage.

While both nozzles may use 2 gallons per min, they are putting that water down on completely different sized areas.

Just my 2cents.

jackofmany 09-11-2010 05:06 AM

Better late than never -
Thanks for the reply. I have been educating myself about precisely the area you addressed. What I have here is an acre roughly that is in a sub-tropical climate which has an abundance of shade trees fortunately -- and unfortunately. This results in having some areas within the same zone, of which there will be 7 or 8 when I am finished, actually needing more water than an area adjacent to it do to the unrelenting heat from direct sun. Shaded areas fair far better obviously. At the same time, the soil, which varies from 4 to 6 inches of a sandy loam and a variety of sandy clays for another 10 inches then a good hard yellow clay does perk very well fortunately.

My biggest challange now is finding out what the limitation of the well is. It's 380' deep - was originally for the houshold supply, then "city"water was forced on everyone out here in the country. I had a new pump set at 100 ft just a year ago. So now I'm testing the limits to see the maximum number of heads (mostly rotors) that a zone can take.

There's a science to this I understand, but there's also a good bit of trial and error. Fortunately not much of the latter so far. Thanks again.:thumbsup:

downunder 09-11-2010 03:32 PM

That's where I was going but I didn't want to throw too much information there that wasn't needed and confuse the situation. Thanks for keeping us on track.

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