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Old 08-26-2013, 08:53 AM   #16
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Bagging is easy. Just a pain to empty the bag. Based on 95x115 you need enough seed for 10,000 sq ft. The bag will usually give you coverage and spreader settings. Personally, I seed on the heavy side just so I don't have to do it all over again if it comes in thin.

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Old 08-26-2013, 12:47 PM   #17
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Thanks for the help - again - I really appreciate this.

I called up my local ACE and they recommended the below:

50lb bag of commercial mix (25% Annual / 75% Perennial) as well as a bag of starter mix fertilizer.

$80 for the seed, $50 for the fertilizer.


He said to cancel the lawn treatment for fear it may be too strong on the new seeds and recommended spreading the seed first then immediately going over a second time with the starter fertilizer.

Does this look like a good route to take?
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adgjqetuo View Post
Thanks for the help - again - I really appreciate this.

I called up my local ACE and they recommended the below:

50lb bag of commercial mix (25% Annual / 75% Perennial) as well as a bag of starter mix fertilizer.

$80 for the seed, $50 for the fertilizer.


He said to cancel the lawn treatment for fear it may be too strong on the new seeds and recommended spreading the seed first then immediately going over a second time with the starter fertilizer.

Does this look like a good route to take?
The starter fertilizer is good. I completely forgot about it. I'm not a seed expert but to me 25% seems high for annual. It's going to germinate quickly but it's going to die this winter and not come back in the spring.
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:43 PM   #19
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Just a guess, but that looks like a mix for a totally new lawn with the annuals to germinate quickly and provide protection for the new grass.

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Old 08-26-2013, 04:00 PM   #20
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Blends with high annual content like that are often sold as contractor blends where the turf has to germinate quickly so they can close on the house and be gone. Annual grasses are also helpful in quick erosion control. As mentioned, you will only get one growth season out of them.

Look for a blend of perennial rye, fescue and bluegrass without any, or at least not much, annual seed.
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:19 PM   #21
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Hm... that was from my local ACE too - I'll try calling another I guess and see what they say. I'll let you guys know what I find.


Edit:: Called a local Agway by me and they have below:

50lb bag - 50% Rye, 35% Creeping Fescue, and 15% Kentucky Bluegrass - 100% Perennial for - $106.

50lb bag of 10-20-10 starter fertilizer - $23.49

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Old 08-26-2013, 04:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adgjqetuo View Post
Hm... that was from my local ACE too - I'll try calling another I guess and see what they say. I'll let you guys know what I find.


Edit:: Called a local Agway by me and they have below:

50lb bag - 50% Rye, 35% Creeping Fescue, and 15% Kentucky Bluegrass - 100% Perennial for - $106.

50lb bag of 10-20-10 starter fertilizer - $23.49
Perennial not annual rye, right? Otherwise sounds good. You might want more bluegrass if much of the lawn is in shade.

And, are you sure you really want 10,000sf of turf?
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:13 PM   #23
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Yes he said the entire mix is Perennial. My front yard is 3/4 shade and my backyard is 3/4 sun.

He said this mix would be best for having a mixture of sun and shade.

The problem is he only sells it and 35 or 50 pound bags. 35 I don't think is enough and 50 maybe too much but I figured it would be better to have too much than too little?

The extra may be nice to spot treat during the spring If needed.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by adgjqetuo View Post
Yes he said the entire mix is Perennial. My front yard is 3/4 shade and my backyard is 3/4 sun.

He said this mix would be best for having a mixture of sun and shade.

The problem is he only sells it and 35 or 50 pound bags. 35 I don't think is enough and 50 maybe too much but I figured it would be better to have too much than too little?

The extra may be nice to spot treat during the spring If needed.
Sounds like 50 is the way to go. Just be sure and store the leftovers properly and away from temp extremes.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:53 PM   #25
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Is there a such thing as over over-seeding?

Besides the obvious of it piling up which I know is incorrect. Just put the spreader on max, walk the whole lawn and whatever leftover I have, I have?

Here is a section of my lawn from distance, it's only when you get close you see the crabgrass and weeds, from a distance it doesn't look too bad. Just want to make sure I'm not over-doing it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:31 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adgjqetuo View Post
Is there a such thing as over over-seeding?

Besides the obvious of it piling up which I know is incorrect. Just put the spreader on max, walk the whole lawn and whatever leftover I have, I have?
You cannot really harm anything putting on too much seed although you will be increasing the concentration of the fast germinating ryes to a point. More than anything it is just wasteful.

Don't forget to bring in a few yards of top dressing for this. You need to cover the seed so it does not scorch and so you do not feed too many birds. It will be cheaper if you have a dump truck from a landscape material supplier dump a pile of stuff in your driveway.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:01 AM   #27
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Sorry - just back reading and I realized I missed the portion about dressing.

How do spread this? Is there a process? How thin or thick? Will the farm store know what in talking about when I mention it?

So I need to dethatch - seed - use a starter fertilizer - then a final coating of dressing?

Seems like the process keeps getting longer...

What about water? Is it better to dethatch with a moist lawn or dry lawn? Trying to decide if I should turn off my irrigation tonight and keep it off until I seed on Saturday.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:14 AM   #28
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Wet thatch can clog up the machine just like wet grass can a mower so your turf should be dry when you de-thatch.

There is no easy way to apply top dressing. A wheelbarrow, your hands and a rake will work. As mentioned, it will be cheaper for as much as you need to get it by the yard and in bulk.

You do not need it too thick. Your goal is to cover the seed to protect it from sun scorching and birds and to provide a bit of moisture retention. Something like 1/8 to 1/4 inch will be more than adequate.

Remember you want to keep your seed moist until all of it germinates.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:28 AM   #29
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Understood - wont the rake disturb the seeds though? Maybe the back end of the rake?


EDIT:: I called 3 different places - 2 local farm stores and an Ace and all three said they don't carry anything besides straight peat, but said that would probably be to light. They also all said as long as I have existing grass it should be enough to protect the seed?

I asked where else I can get a top dressing and none of them could recommend anywhere local that they think would carry it besides who I already called.

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Old 08-29-2013, 09:53 AM   #30
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I called a local nursery.

They have two types - top soil and a garden mix which is composed of organic compost.

The Garden mix he said may be slightly more acidic then the top soil, but has a lot more nutrients. He gave me a price of $30 per sq yard.

What do you think?

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