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-   -   Am I approaching my lawn properly? (pics) (http://www.diychatroom.com/f16/am-i-approaching-my-lawn-properly-pics-8596/)

joeyboy 05-21-2007 05:15 PM

Am I approaching my lawn properly? (pics)
 
2 Attachment(s)
I think that I know what I'm doing with this, but was hoping that someone could let me know if this is on point.

The yard is very sandy, lots of weeds, lots of dead grass, and some decent grass.

This is the approach I was planning to take:
1) Weed the yard by hand to get most of them out
2) Dethatch (is this just raking up the dead grass basically?)
3) Spread a combination of peat moss, top soil, and starter fertilizer over lawn
4) using the stiff rake, work the peatmoss/top soil/ fertilizer into my current soil, trying to work it into the top few inches
5) seed lawn with seed spreader, according to label on seeds (bermudagrass blend)
6) water thoroughly until it's established a bit, don't cut until it's grown a few inches
7) once established, reduce watering to promote deeper root growth.



Is this pretty much on point?

smallcrpt 05-21-2007 05:58 PM

sure
 
I'm not sure about hand-weeding. You might be able to spray it all w/ a non-selective herbicide if your crappy grass areas are seperate from your good grass areas.
If you spray a non-selective, you have to wait like 2-3 weeks before seeding into it.
I'd go w/ hard-raking or renting a dethatcher or mantis, which is a small rototiller, and scuffing up your yard.
then spray the non-selective...
after 3 weeks, i'd then go to step three...

watch your final step, i'd water heavy once/twice a week depending on your weather. you dont want to stress your grass while the roots go searching for water. if you supply them w/ water heavily they will search and find it, but yet still be happy.
I've worked on golf courses for 8 years now and we practice "syringing" which is a very light shot of water in combination w/ heavy watering. The light shot of water is made during the hottest part of the day, it opens the stomates and lets the plants breathe and cools them down.

good luck, i'd show you pictures of my home lawn. it looks like crap. hehe, but who wants to work 10 hours on a golf course, just to come home and do it again.

-chris

J187 05-22-2007 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallcrpt (Post 45779)
i'd show you pictures of my home lawn. it looks like crap. hehe, but who wants to work 10 hours on a golf course, just to come home and do it again.

-chris

Ah, the shoemakers barefoot children....

joeyboy 05-22-2007 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallcrpt (Post 45779)
I'm not sure about hand-weeding. You might be able to spray it all w/ a non-selective herbicide if your crappy grass areas are seperate from your good grass areas.
If you spray a non-selective, you have to wait like 2-3 weeks before seeding into it.
I'd go w/ hard-raking or renting a dethatcher or mantis, which is a small rototiller, and scuffing up your yard.
then spray the non-selective...
after 3 weeks, i'd then go to step three...

watch your final step, i'd water heavy once/twice a week depending on your weather. you dont want to stress your grass while the roots go searching for water. if you supply them w/ water heavily they will search and find it, but yet still be happy.
I've worked on golf courses for 8 years now and we practice "syringing" which is a very light shot of water in combination w/ heavy watering. The light shot of water is made during the hottest part of the day, it opens the stomates and lets the plants breathe and cools them down.

good luck, i'd show you pictures of my home lawn. it looks like crap. hehe, but who wants to work 10 hours on a golf course, just to come home and do it again.

-chris

haha I can imagine lol!

About the weeding by hand - are you saying that because it's just very tedious / slow to do it by hand, as compared to the herbacide? If that's the case, we'd still be doing it by hand, as we have the manpower here (my younger brother who is working with me), and if that means we can forego the waiting period for the pesticide to go away, then we'd just go by hand. We figured that way, we'd be done quicker, and we could 'spot treat' any areas that weeds come back in.

NateHanson 05-22-2007 11:47 AM

I think the argument for using a non-selective herbicide, is that you get a fresh start. A blank slate. Your new lawn will be only what you plant on it.

joeyboy 05-25-2007 09:29 PM

Well, I had thought that the time from round up to seeding was weeks, but then found out it was only days, so we did the roundup today/night. Sprayed the entire back yard, although I didn't do the front. For the front, I spread the peat moss/compost+manure/topsoil, then some starter fertilizer, then raked. I then seeded (bermudagrass, I'm in FL btw), and added some more peat moss on top.

I did not till that into my soil. In all honesty, I'm not really seeing the point. I'm guessing my grass will grow great the way I did it, but we'll see. If worses comes to worse, I'll rent a tilling machine and till the backyard, but what's the point of just tilling all that sand up into my nice topsoil/peatmoss/manure/compost mix?

joeyboy 05-31-2007 07:45 PM

well, teh front lawn patch where I didn't till showed bad growth, the manure just sitting on the soil isn't giving room for roots to grow. I re-roundup'd the yard again, and am trying to source free top soil (anyone in the tampa / pasco FL areas who knows a free spot, hook it up!).


My soil is almost totally sand. When I get my dirt, and my peat moss, before roto-tilling, is there any rough guideline on how many inches of soil/peat moss should be laid before tilling? (again, this is bermudagrass in central FL)


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