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-   -   Widen Rough Opening -- w/o a headache (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/widen-rough-opening-w-o-headache-72982/)

luvdairish 06-06-2010 12:26 PM

Widen Rough Opening -- w/o a headache
 
Have a rough opening of 71" after removing old sliding door. Need 72 1/4 rough to get 36" french doors in. What's the best approach to opening up this door way a little more?

firehawkmph 06-06-2010 04:09 PM

Open up an area around the door see whats there to start. Most likely install wider header and reframe. Patch drywall, trim out. Sometimes the easiest way is what appears the hardest. More than likely you have a double stud on each side. Don't be tempted to take one out or cut and inch out of each side. They're their for a reason.
Mike Hawkins:)

kwikfishron 06-06-2010 04:12 PM

Is this a load bearing wall with a solid header?

How wide is the actual header?

luvdairish 06-06-2010 05:47 PM

I'm assuming it's a bearing wall because it is an exterior front of the house. I will have to pull the wall apart as suggested. Looking for an easy (but proper) way to get the extra space. Here is a pic of the house.

[IMG]<a href="http://uploadpic.org/showpic-68181/img_0071.html"><img src="http://uploadpic.org/thumb-68181.jpg" border="0" alt="uploadpic.org - click to view full image"></a>[/IMG]

http://uploadpic.org/pic-68181-720.jpg

kwikfishron 06-06-2010 06:58 PM

Your picture upload didn’t work. Look at the top of the "Building and Construction" page on how to post a pic.

Proper is the only way, easy depends on who’s holding the hammer.

Hope you stuck the slider back in the hole for the night.

kwikfishron 06-07-2010 06:40 AM

Your going to need a longer header. If that’s a truss roof with a gable truss then the walls not bearing. If your lucky it has a box header. That will be a lot easier to deal with without damaging any sheetrock, which is the goal.

As Mike said, your next step is to open it up and see what you have. Take one more course of siding off above the opening and get the Tyvek out of the way. Cut the plywood back one stud each direction and remove. The same with the piece above. Then just simply replace the header.

New Sawzall blades are a must. A good metal blade to cut the sheetrock nails. If it’s a box header, piece of cake. A solid header, not as fun, just take your time. If you have to cut nails from the top plate into a solid header (after you get the king stud and trimmer out of the way) just drive a chisel or flat bar in there to make a little gap and work your way down. Just don’t cut through the sheetrock.

luvdairish 06-11-2010 06:50 AM

Spoke to the building inpspector today and it doesn't look to be an issue. There are 2 studs that support on both ends of header. When I told the building inspector I need an inch, he told me to get it. I said "but what about the header". His reply was "just get the inch". So I will remove one stud on both sides and pack out to the doorway. Should I just rip the 2x4 down to size?

Scuba_Dave 06-11-2010 08:54 AM

Best (not easiest) is 1/2" on each side


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