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What is the best way to cut aluminum

32K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  47_47 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone,

I have a band saw which was great for cutting metal... unfortunately, last light, it is a goner, find out the lubricate oil inside the container all used up leaving up the grearing all screw up... it is not fixable....

I don't want to buy another band saw because the one I had is a steal from EBay and there is no more such steal currently.

Now I need to cut Aluminum, could anyone suggest me a method... I need to cut angle, some with 45 degree, I need to cut square pipes...

The only think I can think of right now is a jig saw....

I am wondering can I use my portable Makita cordless wet tile saw and change the saw blade (somthing like 3.5") to some metal cutting blade to do the same...

Don't tell me I have to use my hand if I don't want to spend a few hundred bucks....

OK, after searching the net, someone said Aluminum can be cut by a wood router... here is the link

http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/tips/AlumCut.html

I do not 100% understand the description as you know my English....

well please share with me if you have any more detail description of agree using a router to cut aluminum will work..e.tc. thanks...
 
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#3 ·
Can you tell me what saw blade you use for that.... I suppose you mean those very high rpm miter saw which I happen to have one .... if they work, it is a life saver for me...

I meant how many teeth per inches etc... you means those use to cut wood right?
 
#7 ·
While any 80 tooth carbide would probably work fine, they do make chop saw blades specifically for aluminum, and they work much better. Instead of ATB (alternate bevel, as most standard carbides made for wood are) they have TCG (triple chip grind) and have negative hook (also known as rake) which makes for smoother cuts with less grab.

Examples of this type of blade would be:

Everlast non-ferrous blades
Stehle non-ferrous - new generation
Tenryu alumi-cut series
SystiMatic Aluminator metal
 
#9 ·
I went to HD and the only aluminum cutting blade they carry is 7", can I install it in a 10" miter saw.... I don't really see why it wouldn't work... but would like to ask pro here... just in case.... if there is any negative effect in doing so...
 
#10 ·
The smaller blade diameter will probably not even reach the material when the saw bottoms out. Why not just order what fits correctly from Amazon.com?
 
#11 ·
You really should use the correct sized blade in any saw. Yes it will work... is it the blade meant for your saw and will it be as safe as a 10" blade? No.

You can certainly order the correct blade online, and as others mentioned, any 10" carbide blade would work... the teeth on ATB carbides are not designed to cut non-ferrous metals, but they will cut it. TCG blades are better designed to handle it.

So I'd say you should get a 10" 80 tooth carbide of any type rather than getting a 7" aluminum cutting one.

You can always order the correct blade online from the 100's of suppliers that handle them- amazon, toolking, rockler, etc.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I wish I am in US which can order online... here in Canada... online ordering is a piece of crap.... it's shipping expensive and doesn't make sense....

but anyway, I will refund the blade and get a 10" one....some other way...

and the other reason I want to use a aluminum blade is because I think there blade is thinner resulting less materials loss, because I am cutting a 96" into 4 pieces resulting 24" each piece, and I hope there will be minium loss in materials... I need peceision here... as you know this thing is expensive, try to keep buying extra piece minium..... if this saw thing doesn't work... I may have to use hand saw...
 
#13 ·
When you're at HD, don't just look for aluminum cutting blades. Look for 10" blades with negative rake (or hook), and something other than ATB (which looks like flat, left slant, right slant). I think fine veneer plywood blades, and plastic/laminate blades will have the same features.
 
#15 · (Edited)
You work aluminum with the same tools as wood. A quality carbide toothed saw blade will cut it fine. Be sure the material is clamped securely and cut a little slower than wood. If the teeth tend to "clog" as will happen with some soft alloys of aluminum, lubricate the saw blade with a "wax stick" generally available at a contractor supplier. Be sure to wear good safety glasses and a long sleeve shirt. The chips are hot and stick to you.

Go to a local contractor supplier and get a full thickness carbibe blade, as oppossed to the thin kerf blades typically available at home centers.
 
#16 ·
I bought a $10.00 right angle grinder at Northern Tool. With a metal cutoff disk it cuts metal angle no problem- with a masonry blade it cuts tile and 1/2" thick pavers, even cuts circles! The cutting disks are about $2.00 ea.- get the thin cutting disks- not the 1/4" think grinding disks
 
#17 ·
Thanks everyone, here is my plan of attack:

- I saw a 10" aluminum cutting blade, but it costs 80 bucks. too much
- I saw a 3 1/2" aluminum cutting blade, it costs 10 buckss, I am going to try to use those for some of the cut with my Makaita cordlesss tile saw.
- I try the angle grinder with metal blade, but this is ok for steel, but I really suspect it will work for aluminium... as the method it used is kind of to melt the metal rather than really cutting it.... and the wound is not that great...
- so for large object, I am going to try to get a 10" plastic cutting 10" blade
- for precision cut and I don't want to loss material, going to use hand saw....

thanks....
 
#18 ·
Quality woodworking carbide will munch through aluminum just fine. Thing is, qualty carbide costs. The 80T 10" Forrest Chopmaster on my radial arm, and 40T Ridge Carbide TS2000 in my tablesaw slice aluminum very nicely. of note, however - when cutting thin stuff - less than 1/8" - it is best to clamp aluminum between wood blocks.

One low-cost option is to use a 7.25" circular saw blade. HD sells a $15 Freud Diablo 40T blade that should work very well in your tablesaw - and it has a very thin kerf. It also works fine in a radial arm, but no idea how it'll fare in a miter. I usually install it when I need a thin kerf.

Oh, aluminum can also be routed with carbide router bits.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Yes, use circular saw with the 7.5" aluminum blade I bought seems a good idea .... gee.. there is so many ways to do the same thing... so I don't need to refund the thing then.... there goes 15 bucks less to spend in Christmas...Thanks...

actually you said mounting 7.5" on a table saw... gee... never thought of that... that is even better... thanks a lot....

I didn't and won't use angle grinder with metal blade to cut the aluminum... as I feel somthing wrong with that combination by instinct anyway...

so I should be all set now...
 
#21 ·
Aluminum extrusions is all my company sells and we use a 12" Forrest Miter Master with 80 teeth. You could use a laminate blade with a negative rake do not run the blade backward. Never use a grinding or abrasive cut off wheel, the aluminum will clog the pores and the wheel could explode. Use a wax stick (candle wax) lubricant between every few cuts will help to dissipate heat and prolong blade sharpness. Be careful when using the table saw. Most blades travel around 3500 RPM and small cut offs will become missles.
 
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