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Old 12-01-2011, 11:35 PM   #16
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Anybody care about concept like square anymore? That framing around the chimney looks really, really weird to me. Granted masons can go mad as hatters but I have never seen one yet that sets a foundation for their work and builds so off square from the foundation as I see in the pictures.

String an imaginary chalk line just off the front of the masons work. Does not everything looked wacked around it?

Gus with a nail gun framing thinks me. No need for a square or other ancient device.

Last edited by user1007; 12-02-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:43 AM   #17
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Sorry guys about my terminology I know it is osb just said plywood
Doctor talking to patient:
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:36 AM   #18
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to answer your main question, I would put the sub-floor down first, followed by a firestop made out of galvanized or even drip-edge works pretty well. Then frame the wall on top of that. You need to stay at least 2 inches away from the chimney with any combustible material.

edit: keep in mind that the chimney may not be plumb so the 2" at the base might need to be 3" (for example) to keep the walls plumb.

edit 2: I really hate that connection point of the joists around the chimney. I'm thinking that won't pass inspection unless you put a post right under the splice.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #19
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thanks for the help guys, and i dont really understand the mr jones jokes but whatever have fun with it..lol..the chimney is really off square from foundation. nothing is square
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:34 PM   #20
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Level, square, plumb and other mantras I cannot remember at the moment. I pay sub-contractors for their memories.

Your house should have started somewhat square. Even if not a cult person, every mason I have ever worked with demands their own foundation perfectly square to start. And they check their work all the way up.

No way the perfect looking chimney in your photo can be blamed for the absolute framing disaster you show.

You are so far off square, just to start, You are framing on nothing real at the angles shown.

When in doubt. Always, absolutely always trust the mason of any new or ancient antique house. Such idjuts are wired with square tools and plumb bobs in their heads. Or they carry them to prove points.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:50 PM   #21
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im not asking anybody for there critisizm im just trying to get help so please cut me your poetry. and this house used to be a barn back in the early 1900's then they added a back porch which became a joke for a kitchen and someone down the line added a enclosed front porch in 1972 i know this because when i gutted the house i found a time capsule in that section saying when the addition was done. anyway i did submit building plans that i drew out myself and they were approved so i dont see where im necessarily going wrong with this.
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:16 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by garrettstump View Post
so i dont see where im necessarily going wrong with this.
You aren't..
There's always armchair quarterbacks.
You're doing fine.

Let's get started.
You showed us your stairwell framing.
I'm concerned with the proposed wall thickness creeping into your stairwell.
Make sure you have room for 2" masonry clearance + framing thickness + drywall + baseboard trim BEFORE you lay your subfloor.
Then make sure your stairwell is wide enough to meet code.
Much easier to reframe now than later.

You need to know what your FINISHED stairwell width has to be.
Your well opening should be 2-1/2" wider than your finished stairwell needs to be.

Let us know........
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:33 PM   #23
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here is a link to some more pictures.....http://s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/garrettstump/ the house started out as and what it is kinda now. im in kingsville ohio which is a township if any of that makes a difference... this is the link to my county code...http://publicecodes.citation.com/st/...-P-2005-000004

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Old 12-02-2011, 02:51 PM   #24
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Take a look at THIS. It will give you a pretty good “basic overview” of what your framing should look like.
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by garrettstump View Post
here is a link to some more pictures.....http://s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/garrettstump/ the house started out as and what it is kinda now. im in kingsville ohio which is a township if any of that makes a difference... this is the link to my county code...http://publicecodes.citation.com/st/...-P-2005-000004
1009.1 Stairway width.

The width of stairways shall be determined as specified in Section 1005.1, but such width shall not be less than 44 inches (1118 mm). See Section 1007.3 for accessible means of egress stairways.


Exceptions:

1. Stairways serving an occupant load of less than 50 shall have a width of not less than 36 inches (914 mm).

so I read that to say you need a 36" finished stairwell.
Do you have that?....38-1/2" rough opening?
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:18 PM   #26
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Run the plywood floor first before framing walls. I would keep all wood at least 2" off of chimney.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:19 PM   #27
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yes and plus some i cant remember off the top of my head but i think 48inches
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:24 PM   #28
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Congrats garrettstump, for taking the bull by the horns, great DIY project and if I read everything correctly your first, thats quite the first project and its looking pretty good.

Finish the sub-flooring and then build the walls around the masonary and like some have said leave the necessary clearances.

Again nice job!

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Old 12-02-2011, 04:32 PM   #29
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hey thanks and yes this is the first time ive ever done anything like this, i have 0 experience in house construction. im trying to do everything by code and everything since i did take the plunge and get permits....lol
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:20 PM   #30
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Hi Garrett
Good job
Please don't overlook my post about the stairwell opening and chimney clearance.
It WILL come back to bite you.
Trust me.....I've been chewed.........
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