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scroff 09-01-2012 06:43 PM

wainscot above baseboard hot water heat
I have baseboard hot water heat. I want to put oak wainscot along the wall above it. Are there any issues I need to think about? Will the heat warp or crack the wainscot? Do I need to put something along the top of the baseboard or can I run the wainscot right to the top of the baseboard? I'd rather not pull the casing off the heat to get behind it, so I want to butt the wainscot right to it... There's a window in this wall above the heat

joecaption 09-01-2012 07:08 PM

It would be far better to do it right and remove the cover and the screws holding the cover to the wall. Your only talking about 4 screws.
You do not have to remove the whole thing just remove the screws and pull it foward.
That way there's no seams, caulking or fancy cuts.

Use real wood wainscot not that prefinished MDF poop.

Sand it all and preprime and paint two coats before installing with it laying down if possible. Reason being when it's on the wall the paint keeps wanting to run down the beads and pool up at the bottom.

You do know it's best to start in the middle of the wall and work your way out right? That way the end cuts come out even.
That first sheet has to be perfectly plumb, held up off the floor by about 1/2" and the ends have to be over the middle if a stud.
I use Loc-Tite qwick grip in a lazy S pattern in the middle of the panel and a border about 2" from the edges. That way it does not ozze out.
I use a hand floor roller to go over the wall to spread out the adhesize then you should only need a few panel nails at the very top and bottom so they will get covered by trim.
I use a narrow crown staple gun to add one in the middle of the seam.
If you scrib the inside corners you will not need inside corner moulding, which makes is look like a first time DIY did it.

DannyT 09-01-2012 09:21 PM

joe pretty much covered it all

scroff 09-02-2012 08:39 AM

Thanks Danny & Joe. I didn't know about starting in the middle. That's one of those details I wouldn't even think about until I hit the other end of the room. I'm using "Adirondack Oak" brand red oak wainscot. 9 sq. ft to a pack, 3" width pre-cut to 32" height. Their 'system' includes the chair rail and baseboard molding. Any opinions on oak vs pine?

Any tips on stain? Maybe some clearcoat, other than polyurethane? We'd rather keep the wood finish than paint over it. I think I remember my old boss from years ago talking about linseed oil or some kind of oil...

...and ok, I won't be lazy; I'll move the casing forward.

Thanks again!

joecaption 09-02-2012 10:06 AM

What room is this going in?

Before doing anything take a close look around the room.
Make sure there's not going to be any outlets or light switches at a level where you have to only cover part of them.

If you could post a picture of where it's going to be installed that would be great.

The trouble with using the strips and not panels is attaching it to the wall. There not going to stay attached by just counting on just attaching to the sheetrock.

Are these T& G strips?

scroff 09-02-2012 11:11 AM

1 Attachment(s)
This is going in a bedroom. The strips are t&g. The only panels I found at Home Depot were that white fake stuff. Here's a photo of the room where the window and heat is.

I get what you're saying about nailing the strips to the sheetrock. I thought glue would work, but maybe I need to try something else. If I use furring strips I might have to ditch this Adirondack Oak 'system'.

Any thoughts on linseed or Tung oil?

joecaption 09-02-2012 11:53 AM

I'd use the Loc-Tite qwick grip and a narrow crown pneumatic staple gun to attach it.
The baseboard at the bottom and the rail at the top, if nailed into the studs should hold it in place.

No floor is ever perfectly flat that's one reason you install it up off the floor. That way the top can be set level.
I'd snap a chaulk line at the top.

scroff 09-11-2012 11:57 AM

Ok, the wainscot is being put on hold due to expense... just got a bill for school taxes...:huh:

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