Vinyl window installation questions
I have been doing renos to my house, adding insulation boards and stuff. Now my new windows arrived, and I have a couple of questions on how to install them correctly.
They are the basic PVC vinyl windows, with nail fin, low-e with argon, double pane, sliding and etc.
In the installation paper that comes with the window, it asks to screw through the side/top jams into the framing for every 24" intervals.
Is this the correct way? Will this introduce leaks into the vinyl jams? Will the vinyl jams be strong enough and not to deform? (I understand that the window jams are hollow?) I am afraid of breaking the new windows! :)
I’m assuming these are retro windows with no nail flange sitting in the old windows frame, if so then yes screw though the sides and the top. Pre-drill the holes and you’ll should be good to go.
Don’t screw into the bottom or “it will leak”.
usually you would drill a 3/8'' hole thru the first extrusion then a smaller hole thru the second into the framing
the larger hole allows the screw head to pass thru the first extrusion and the hole is usually covered with a plastic cap that comes in the bag of screws you should have gotten with your windows
You said, "with nail fin". The nail fin gets nailed or screwed to the framing. With nail fins, screws thru the jambs not needed, but often the jambs are predrilled for those screws, and installing them adds support..
kwikfishron, the windows are for "new construction" I guess, they have the nailing fin/flange.
Will nailing through the fin/flange enough?
tomstruble, Will drilling these 2 holes somehow damage the air-seal of the windows? I mean, the window jams are hollow, but are they air tight, and therefore serve as somesort of insulation member?
Just Bill, the windows do have nail fins, but I could not find any pre-drilled holes, and I am "afraid" of drilling holes in that shrining jam surfaces... :)
Thanks guys again!
Then don’t screw anything. Just nail every other hole with 1 ½” roofing nails. Apply a bead of caulking to the fame so the nail flange is seats to the caulking. Also make sure your siding paper goes under the lower nail flange so if any water gets in there it will shed down the paper and away from the wall.
well if they are air tight the only air that should be in them would be room temperature air
all replacement windows will have a label with install instructions or go to the manufacturer's web site...put them in the way they say to
vinyl window in concrete block no wood buck
Glad I found this site, however, I just installed 2 vinyl windows in concrete block. I ordered them to fit the concrete block with no wood buck. My questions are to anyone to see if I did this right. I did read alot and asked the OEM who said it was fine. I am ready to trim the inside now.
1. took out old wood windows and buck
2. shimmed vinyl in existing block after pouring mortor in open cavities of
block. didnt have to , but wanted solid surface I guess
3. plummed all sides and put shims on bottom to keep up about 1/8"
4. pre drilled first hole through vinyl sides with 3/8" drill-man you have to
be careful. (only pushed too hard on one hole and it went all the way
5. hammer drilled holes for 2 3/4" tapcons
6. screwed tapcons to point with vinyl pulled tight against the shims,
window opened fine
7. Once solid, I used window seal spray non expand foam around entire
inside window to concrete wall gaps. filled nice and tight
8. cut back overflow of foam and then caulked outside with white window
Questions--should I have covered concrete block with black paper?
should I have put sealant under sill first even though foam
where do I get vinyl plugs for 3/8's holes? Plus, I will fill holes
with sealant before pushing plug in
Inside Trimming Questions--Not enough for wood buck to nail trim so want to install trim wood direct to concrete block using PL400 and drilling one 3/8's hole in middle of each trim pc to hold. Once dries will fill hole with wood dowel plug and sand off then paint.
I cut the the trim wood and it looks good in the well, however, question is whether I need to tapcon this after PL400 to eliminate wood dowel work.
Okay, this is where I am. If I made a mistake, be gentle. We had 40 mile an hour rain and wind gusts and everything okay so far.
Always follow the Manufacturers recommendations when in doubt. If the window/door was tested by an accredited lab, that is where the manufacture developes the fastening schedule.
This becomes more critical in the higher wind load areas of the country.
In general, they are pretty straight forward.
I had called the mfg and told them what I was doing and how. They said that should be fine. If that window blows out I will first be the laughing stock by my wife, the neighbors, and finally the father in law who is a carpenter.
It is done, trimmed, and has window shades. The only little mistake I made was not leveling the base trim. When I poured motor to level out the bottom and then glued the trim pc, somehow it moved after I drilled a tap con in one side a little too far. About an 1/8" off which makes the wood blind shut full on one side but has a 1/8" gap on the other. Who will notice that? Well, the wife and her father did. Anything to tell me I can't do it. Other than that everyone thinks they look fine.
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