One of the previous owners of my home put almond colored vinyl siding over top of cedar siding on a dormer window, and on 2nd floor in the back. The contractor put a layer of foam board insulation against the original cedar, then put the vinyl up. I suppose they got tired of repainting the cedar. My house was built in 1940. The rest of the house is stone. The vinyl on the dormer was not laid under the slate, which is half-assed IMO. There is copper flashing under the original cedar though, so that keeps water out. I dont like the look of the vinyl flashing over top the slate.
Are there any potential problems with this set up? It does reduce the overhang of the slate roof over the gutters on the 2nd floor in the back (There is still some overhang, but not much). I was concerned about moisture getting trapped and rotting the cedar underneath. I have considered romoving everything and insulating with the rolled pink insulation between 2x4's in walls , then a wrap, and finally putting the vinyl back up. It would be difficult on one side of the house because the siding is above a built out section on the first floor which also has a slate roof and is steeply sloped. Here the vinyl was also placed on top of the slate.
Yes it is a problem. Wood is now sandwiched between two vapor barriers. Wood siding should be removed prior to vinyl installations. Is it worth re-doing it? probably not. If it rots and you see siding issues, then the work is needed.
I should have posted some pics. ( if i could find my cable to connect camera to PC i will) Yes i have a slate roof. Thats not my issue, though having the foam board on top of 60yr old cedar siding, then vinyl on top of that builds the 2nd floor wall out to the point where there isnt much of the slate overlapping the gutter. Becuase the wall has been built out so far with all the layers of product. I was concerned with moisture getting trapped between these layers and creating a mildew or rotting problem behind the vinyl as Bob stated. Having the vinyl trap any moisture & causing the cedar to rot or develop mildew.
Yes i could slide it under the bottom row of slate & allow this to overhang the gutter further. I have used copper/alum. coiled product to prevent water getting thru cracked slate. Its much easier than trying to replace a broken slate.
Im more concerned with the possible mildew issue under vinyl & poor insulation quality of the foam board(as far as I know there is no insulation between the 2x4's in the wall) I guess theres only one way to find out. I'll have to remove some of the vinyl and see if there is mildew present. It just seems like a half-assed job to not remove the cedar before putting anything over it.
it was and good contractors will do so. But 80% under bid us for those reasons. Wish there was a way to enforce legitimate contractors. Instead laws only are targeting to regulate good contractors and allow the fly-by-night ones to continue unhindered. If you have no insulation and these other issues, seems like a good project is to remove everything and fix the insulation, vapor barrier (Tyvek) and siding at one time. You can leave the house covered with only the tyvek for some time while you continue to strip and fix the other sides. Then new siding all around so the corners fit correctly.
Bob, didn't think you mean to equate vapor barrier with Tyvek in the previous post. Tyvek is actually a liquid moisture barrier and not a vapor barrier. Thought you did a typo but just wanted to catch it so it didn't confuse anyone.
tyvek is a weather barrier if you want to be specific. Which is a good idea. I mentioned vapor barrier, which goes on the inside of the new insulation, then insulation then plywood, then tyvek... now fix the other walls. Then siding. Your are right, we cannot confuse anyone.
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