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Old 02-12-2012, 11:45 AM   #1
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Unfinished Basement Project


I have a bay window that have vents at the bottom which you can see from the basement. It just has insulation laying on top of it.

Is that normal?

You can see pictures below.

http://www.epicoflotus.com/pics/house/

Also in those pictures, my water heater and furnace is in a awkward area, is it hard to move them to a different area?


This is the vents under the bay window.

If i lift the insulation it's right open to the outside.



The plastic doesn't go all the way to the floor, I'm guessing it is suppose to?

This picture the furnace, and especially the water heater is in a awkward spot. It would give me maybe 2 feet total for a hallway between the water heater laundry area and the stairwell.

I measured out the basement do try and see what i can do with it.

Last edited by jayinwww; 02-13-2012 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:59 PM   #2
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Try this for better responses: How to resize photos to post them here.

Gary
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:31 PM   #3
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Ok I changedthe size of the pictures, thanks Gary.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:01 PM   #4
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Jay,
you didn't put in your profile where you are located, but I can suppose it's a cold climate in winter time by the insulation in your pics. That bay window shouldn't have vented soffit material under it. Cold air will come right through that, through the insulation and make for a cold floor above. At the very least, they should have closed off the bottom with 1/2" cdx or osb, then covered with solid soffit material, no vent holes. We used to put the plywood on the bottom and a layer of ridgid foam also, then the solid soffit.

A plumber could move your hot water tank, but it's not a half hour job. Copper supply lines need to be redone, gas line to tank, vent, etc. Furnace move is a lot more difficult. HVAC person could probably come out and tell you what's involved, but you probably aren't going to want to pay the price.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post

A plumber could move your hot water tank, but it's not a half hour job. Copper supply lines need to be redone, gas line to tank, vent, etc. Furnace move is a lot more difficult. HVAC person could probably come out and tell you what's involved, but you probably aren't going to want to pay the price.
Mike Hawkins
So you suggest just move the water heater only? I have to do something, because building around where the water heater currently is, I can't really see working.

Last edited by jayinwww; 02-13-2012 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:24 AM   #6
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Water heater should NOT be out in the middle. Its a safety hazard. Your hvac ducts do not look sealed. Should get some of that metallic tape and put it on all joints, seems, etc.

Last edited by jasin; 02-14-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:50 AM   #7
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I took some more shots of my furnace, and water heater. You think it is a good idea to talk to a plumber on where to move the water header only? I was thinking beside the furnace on the other side of it.

And is the furnace in a good location?

Thank you everyone for the feedback so far.

Last edited by jayinwww; 02-14-2012 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:10 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jayinwww View Post





I took some more shots of my furnace, and water heater. You think it is a good idea to talk to a plumber on where to move the water header only? I was thinking beside the furnace on the other side of it.

And is the furnace in a good location?

Thank you everyone for the feedback so far.
Ok, in the other pictures it was out in the middle. These ones are more clear. Its still a bit to close to the washer and dryer. Water heater should be in a corner, in a closet, etc. Somewhere where people cannot run or bump into it. Easiest fix, not necessarily the best, would be to just move the washer and dryer over to the left 3-5ft. Then no one could run or bump into the water heater when getting clothes. Also, I did notice your copper plumbing pipes have no insulation on them. I suggest you insulate them. And you need a water heater blanket as well.

Last edited by jasin; 02-14-2012 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:53 PM   #9
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You will want to work with your local AHJ on the basement finishing. Points: outside air source to gas appliances; egress windows other than stairs; clearance front/sides of HVAC units, etc.
Plumber to install anti-convective bend in supply to tank (earthquake strap- if needed), no pipe insulation as heated space, replace rim f.g. after foamboard/canned foam. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...33otStRi7Aff7g

Gary
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Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets.
They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money.
Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:00 AM   #10
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Thank you everyone for the great feedback. I will update with pictures as i progress.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:40 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post

That bay window shouldn't have vented soffit material under it. Cold air will come right through that, through the insulation and make for a cold floor above. At the very least, they should have closed off the bottom with 1/2" cdx or osb, then covered with solid soffit material, no vent holes. We used to put the plywood on the bottom and a layer of ridgid foam also, then the solid soffit.
If you don't mind me asking, what is cdx and osb?

Right now insulation is right on top of the holes, if i just put plywood and foam on top of that won't that make it worse?

Sorry just trying to understand better.

Thank You!
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:15 PM   #12
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Jay,
cdx is exterior grade plywood. Osb is 'oriented strand board', or wafer board, or flake board. In other words, some kind of solid sheathing should have been there to keep the weather out, then cover it with soffit material as a maintenance free finish.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
Jay,
cdx is exterior grade plywood. Osb is 'oriented strand board', or wafer board, or flake board. In other words, some kind of solid sheathing should have been there to keep the weather out, then cover it with soffit material as a maintenance free finish.
Mike Hawkins
Thank you very much I understand that now. I also had a question about the basement floor. Should I put down wood treated flooring if there is a sub pump in the basement? Or should I just put down that poly flooring you just glue to the floor then put the walls on top of that? There is also there areas on the floor that i can break through as there is temp flooring there that is covering up a drain.

Another question i have is I have the piping, and ducting to move the water heater but I noticed that there is no electricity hooked up to it. Yes it is a natural gas heater, but doesn't it need some sort of electricity to start up the pilot and/or govern the heat setting?

Thanks a bunch for your help!

Last edited by jayinwww; 05-04-2012 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:56 PM   #14
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I'm looking at this https://www.google.ca/search?q=acid+...Fo3SiALzwbHwAw

acid etch concrete stain, I guess I just tile the floor and put this one top, looks pretty night.
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