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Old 03-06-2008, 01:40 PM   #1
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Tub and surrond install?


I will be putting a tub and three peice surrond in next week. The walls are down to the studs right now. What if anything do i need to do for a vapor barrier? Can i just use green board behind the surrond? Thanks for your help

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Old 03-06-2008, 02:27 PM   #2
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Tub and surrond install?


I have put a few of those in some remodel jobs and they can be aggrivating. You need to read the instruction manual that comes with the kit and follow them to the letter. Make sure you get some good caulk, not the cheap stuff, and caulk it good. The only suggestion that I can lend is if it is at all possible, make the backing out of something that doesn't deteriorate with moisture easily.

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Old 03-07-2008, 05:40 PM   #3
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Tub and surrond install?


Thanks Cal. Do i need any vapor barrier between the studs and green board? Is green board ok to use behind a surrond? Thanks
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Old 03-07-2008, 07:10 PM   #4
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Tub and surrond install?


Most manufacturers of tub surrounds instruct that it be attached directly to the studs.

There are "some" that do require a backer material, because the fiberglass surround panels are produced thinner. When this is required, you should absolutely install cement board. Green board will rot, if it gets wet.
(See the pictures in this thread: greenboard or hardibacker)

The point of installing a vapor barrier is primarily if there is insulation in the wall. Tho, it is still a good precautionary measure to install a vapor barrier on the framing, and then install the cement board if it is needed.

Check your installation instructions for the surround that you purchased, to see if a backer material is needed.

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-07-2008 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 03-07-2008, 08:24 PM   #5
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Tub and surrond install?


The last one I did was a kit the homeowner bought from Lowes and it needed only studs. Nothing else was specified. As already mentioned, a good caulk, in this manufacturer's case silicone was specified, and patience are required. The walls don't move and the panels are going to be on the studs. They don't move either. If you do a good job, they'll be just right, not sloppy. Measure several times and remember that if the panel does not engage readily against the other, don't bull it in!
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Old 03-08-2008, 08:25 AM   #6
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Tub and surrond install?


I would be hesitate with bare studs unless this is a THICK fiberglass reinforced sections,,,highly doubt that. IF somebody slips and falls into the wall,,,what happens to your surround?? Cracks? leaky?

I used to use surrounds also and gave up on them in a rental situation,,,renters can wreck them before you know it,,,NOT report it till huge damage ensues. Or do as people do,,,use the WRONG cleaning agent and wrecks it that way!! I find cement board and ceramic tile MUCH more durable!!

bet that surround barely makes 5-8 years and it will be out again for SOME reason!! IF I have the space to spare sometimes I even throw some plywood behind the cement board,,,they wont be falling thru that too soon!!

Do as YOU see fit,,but plastic surrounds are a temp solution at BEST!!!the cement board behind it sounds like a terrific investment to "ME"
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Old 03-08-2008, 08:37 AM   #7
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Tub and surrond install?


Never heard of bare studs (behind enclosures)....guess you haven't been on many construction sites in the last several decades.....
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:32 PM   #8
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Tub and surrond install?


Hello,
I don't want to steal this thread, but I feel it is very similar and don't want to start a new one. I have my tub area ripped down to the studs. I am going to be doing a surround as it will be my guest bath and will receive little use.

1) I have bought the very thin surround that you just glue to a backer material. The directions say to use greenboard. The people in this forum obviously do not. The only thing I see wrong with this is the fact that I have about 10 inches of wall left above the surround and also the ceiling that is only 70 inches above the tub. I do not want to tile it and liked the idea of priming the greenboard with mildew resistant primer and then painting with a high gloss paint for water resistance. Can you paint durock? I am leaning toward greenboard so I can paint it above the surround.

2)The tub does not fit perfectly into the studs, there is a little under a quarter of an inch between the tub flange and the stud. I can bend the flange by hitting it with a hammer to touch the stud and then shim out the stud so the greenboard does not crumble. or can I just shave some of the greenboard off so it lays flush to the stud and tub flange. If I choose to use durock what can I do?


Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 03-09-2008, 10:25 AM   #9
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Tub and surrond install?


First off using greenboard all the way down is NOT good. Put cement board on the bottom part where the surround is and greenboard the upper part where the paint will go
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:57 PM   #10
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Tub and surrond install?


Ok, I bought the durock today. What do I do with the 1/4 inch gap between the stud and the wall as mentioned in my previous post? Also, can I have the durock go out past the tub, skim coat it with spackle and then paint it? Or should I meet it up with green board behind the surround? That also brings up another point, is there something other than spackle to use in bathrooms that isn't as affected by water? or will a good priming and painting seal it up good enough?

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:33 PM   #11
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Tub and surrond install?


I just did a 36"x36" shower surround and was told about some epoxy paint that worked unbelievable. It is a two part epoxy paint that hardens and is completly water proof. You can apply this directly to green board in shower stall. Awesome product...would reccomend to anyone!!!
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:37 AM   #12
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That sounds like what I need. Do you have a brand name or could I just go to home depot and ask them what it is called?
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:57 AM   #13
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I know the HD here in kansas did not sell it. I got mine at a benjamin moore paint supply store. Pretty reasonable on the price about 45 dollars for paint and hardner. You can roll it, brush it, spray it. Also...make sure you have some time to apply...the more coats you put on the better...but each coat must set an hour...and after mixing the epoxy it has a can life of about 6 hours. So you have to stay on top of it.

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