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Old 07-03-2012, 11:19 PM   #31
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Tiling tub/shower surround w/plaster & lath walls


The former "nightmare bath" is really coming around. Tomorrow I will complete the tiling. I have a few questions about completion, as this is my first solo flight on wall tiling.

1.) Around the controls for the shower, and the shower head and tub spout, how close should I take the tile? When putting the cosmetic parts of the fixtures in place, are the screws supposed to go through tile and/or grout/mortar, or should I be planning bare spots to they'll simply hit hardibacker? (The fixtures didn't come with instructions)

2.) How quickly after finishing tiling with Mapei type 2 can I grout? (I'm under the gun here for timing. Assuming I finish tiling tomorrow (July 4th), then I still need to grout and seal, and guests who will be using this shower arrive on July 7th.

3.) I have read a few times that a good strong caulk bead along the top is wise, so that condensation doesn't drip down the wall and go anywhere it shouldn't, and it's also been said it's wise to caulk the corners of the shower, too. Do I grout, then caulk, or should I grout, seal the grout, then caulk? Which way would be most effective?

4.) As soon as I am done tiling tomorrow, I have to retrofit my cabinetry. (I have chosen to use wall cabinets for the "vanity" as it can be no more than 16.75" deep) I have to figure out what to do about the drain lines, and I'm not entirely sure what kind of metal is where in them. There used to be a double sink in that bathroom, and I need to close off the old secondary line permanently and re-route the new one in prep for the new location of the sink. I know when you open up a drain line, you block it so that the sewer gas doesn't come up, but is there anything else I need to remember? It looks as if some of the line is soldered copper, so if that is the case, can I just cut it off at that point and solder on the new fitting? (I guess my mind is running ahead here and wondering if I could accidently spark a fire because of the presence of sewer gas? I have gotten confident enough with my soldering on standard copper lines, but I have done very little with drain work, and the show must go on )

Thank you, in advance, for your always awesome and informative replies. Have a happy, healthy and safe 4th of July

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Old 07-04-2012, 12:27 AM   #32
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(1) when you install the faucet trim you will usually have a hole approximately 3-6" diameter but this really depends on the faucet. Any screws attaching the trim (face plate) to the valve in the wall will just go through thin air but make sure the hole is within the gasket on the back of the trim ie. the rubber gasket should marry up to tile. Around the shower head and tub spout pipes you should only have perhaps 1/4" clearance all around.

Need to come back to other questions as on IPhone and don't see the thread when typing responses.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:33 AM   #33
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(2) I usually grout the work day after tiling. Most thinsets are good to grout after 8-12hrs, some sooner. Depends on the room too ... Worked in one place with no heat in a basement and when we say the thinset on the corners when taping taking a full day to dry we let the tile sit for a weekend before grouting.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:39 AM   #34
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(3) use a color matched silicon grout caulk ... Mapei do one as do Custom. I have found the Mapei to be a little truer to the grout color whereas the Custom product had more of a sheen and so stood out as being different from the grout. Basic rule is to use caulking wherever tile meets a different material (eg. Top of wall t ceiling) or where the surface changes plane ie. corners.

(4) get back to you in the morning ... Late now and being nagged to get to bed
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:49 AM   #35
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Bonzai, you're awesome. It's extremely hot and humid here, but the thinset seems to be drying up pretty fast, despite all the moisture in the air outside. I was running low on the spacers I was liking best, and within 5 hours, I was able to begin selectively borrowing spacers to work my fresher areas, and nothing budged a bit. (Spacers were pretty tight in there, too) I have been running A/C because my heat tolerance is lowwwww, but with the tile saw running in that tiny bathroom, I have been opening the window to let the dust out, so gosh I hope I can finish up tomorrow before noon and then get that grout on... so once the thinset has gotten solid and lightened up (I'm using gray thinset, so it gets really light compared to when I'm working it) then I'm good to go on grout even say within 12 hours, huh? That would be awesome, because I really can't wait to get it grouted and sealed.

Thanks so much for the wisdom. So much has changed in this house, and the valuable wisdom I have gotten at places like this is pretty damn helpful, since I am the handier one and I haven't worked apprenticing my folks on their projects in years and it's not all like riding a bicycle.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:48 AM   #36
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Glad to see you are on the final stretch---

Before grouting--scrape out your squeezed up thinset---Be careful that you don't damage the waterproofing with your knife.

If you have a multi tool--those are handy for removing the squeeze up---use your old worn out wood blades---the diamond ones are good,but not a 'must have' for squeeze up.

Don't let the grout get ahead of you--in this heat it will set up fast.

Have several buckets of cold water ready---
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:49 AM   #37
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I lost a long post about grouting--Grrrrrrrr.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:38 AM   #38
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What type of tile are you using .. If it is a porous stone make sure to apply at least one coat of sealer BEFORE you grout otherwise the grout will penetrate the tile and you will never get all the haze off.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:47 AM   #39
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(4) I will default to the actual plumbers on here and perhaps you need to create a new thread in the plumbing section unless Mike knows ... I would be looking to see if I could couple a plastic drain line to the copper you have for your vanity rather than trying to run all copper. Never had to try this myself but perhaps it's an option ?? Wondering if there is some sort of compression fitting to do this and what would be to code in most parts. There are rubber clamp couplings but not sure about code for drains going from plastic to metal.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:54 AM   #40
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Thanks for the advice, Mike. There really isn't much squeeze up as I kind of pulled it with the spacers as I was going along, so I wouldn't risk it later and the grout will not be interrupted by thinset anywhere. I'm doing 3x6 glossy ceramic subway tiles with a thin row of fired crackled glass mosaics. I read somewhere that you start sponging off the grout in 15-30 mins? Is that true?I may have my husband sponging one wall while I'm grouting another.

Thanks, Bonzai for all the awesome answers. Dare I say it, I will make my deadline (OK, it won't be COMPLETE, COMPLETE... as in the paint won't be done and the medicine cabinet and light won't be changed, but the shower will be serviceable and when they leave in 5 days I can throw in all the final touches then. YAY.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:58 AM   #41
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Read the grout bag/box for sponge down times ... They can very a little.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:14 PM   #42
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D'oh, I suppose that would be wise, so long as I ignore their attempt to sell me on those expensive additives that made it hell last time,LOL
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:20 PM   #43
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Which grout are you using?
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:43 PM   #44
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Keracolor-U Pearl Gray. Unsanded by Mapei
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:10 PM   #45
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That stuff sets up fairly fast ... Use it a fair bit. Given the heat you mentioned I would check after 10mins and start sponging.

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