Tiling stub surround -- my detailed plan
Thanks to many people on this forum I have my plan worked out for tiling around my tub. But at the last minute I'm second guessing myself, because I'm terrified of messing up and ending up with a water problem in the walls down the road. I have moments of wanting to call someone to come get the job done right, then I change my mind.
I am currently at the stage where I have removed the old surround, and cut the drywall.
I'd appreciate it if you would read my plan here and tell me if it sounds good, or if I'm generally better off hiring a pro. I really want to do this, but not at the risk of potential problems down the road.
1) Cut the drywall from the tub to 5'9" above the tub. I plan to tile to about 5'10" so I left an inch of drywall to overlap with tile.
I also left about an inch of drywall on the 2 sides also, that I plan to overlap with tile.
2) The drywall is 5/8" thickness while the hardibacker is 1/2", so I plan to liquid nail some paint stirring sticks to the studs to fur out the hardibacker even with the drywall.
3) Install hardibacker keeping it's sides about 1/4" from the studs, and about 1/8" from drywall and other hardbacker boards -- and 1/4" above the top of the flange/lip on the tub.
4) Lay 2 or three coats of Redguard over all of the hardibacker, including the inch or so of drywall where the tiles will overlap. (then let it dry)
5) Thinset->tape->thinset in between all joints except between the hardibacker and the tub
6) Caulk the joint between the hardibacker and the tub lip
7) Lay the tile
8) Set grout between all tile, but not on the outter edges.
9) On the outer tile edges (between tile and drywall, and til and tub) caulk it
10) Seal it
11) Have a beer, then let it all dry
12) Take a shower
I see that your plan has evolved and you have gone with the redguard. I think this is an excellent choice as I am sure you have done your research from our last discussion and have made an informed decision. Also I trust you are not working with any exterior walls.
With that said the plan looks great to me. One point that I make and I use in my tiling practices is that I also do not grout the inside corners and I am not sure if that is part of your reference to outside corners or not. The reason that I don't grout my inside corners is because that is an area of lateral movement and if there is lateral movement there will also be cracking of grout. That is my theory in practice take it for what it is worth. Also as long as we are on the subject of grout and caulk when I choose my grouts I always identify the color of grouts that are availible with color matched caulks (both sanded and unsanded depending on how wide your grout line is) That way if I choose the grout colors that have a coordinating caulk I can get a color match with no problems. I also prescribe to a theory and caution my clients from choosing white grouts. The reason is no matter how neat you are you will find it hard to keep it pristine but the choice ultimatly is up to you, but never say I didn't warn ya, lol.
The second point is in regards to your lay out. I always do my layout with my ceter lines between two tiles especially on the control valve walls that way I get 1) a balanced layout and 2) I have an easier time cutting holes around the plumbing and it reduces the amount of field drilling I have to contend with. There are exceptions to this rule however it is a fairly solid rule that yields solid end results.
Other than that your plan looks great and I also am happy that you are leaving the extra drywall to overlap so that your finished appearance is the textured wall and not the hardi board right?
Looks great and I am sure you will get others that will give you some valuable input as well. One other thing I am wondering about is are you going to install any niches or shelves so that you have locations for all of the paraphanalia we use in out showers every day?
Good luck, be safe!
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