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-   -   tiling around tub, durorock question... (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tiling-around-tub-durorock-question-188741/)

troyer16 10-17-2013 01:31 PM

tiling around tub, durorock question...
 
1 Attachment(s)
so i have a new tub in and secured the flange to the studs. everything i have been reading says the durorock should come down over the flange and be 1/8" to 1/4" above the tub. well the flange as you can see adds maybe 1/8"-1/4" an inch thickness around the studs. Is it ok for the cement board to be pushed out a little further at the bottom due to the flange?

longislander2 10-17-2013 02:53 PM

I'm sure you'll get professional advice on this, but this amateur having a similar issue with a flange on a cast acrylic shower pan. If you put the board over the flange, it bows out a little at the bottom, even though this method is in the Kohler installation guide for the pan. Both my contractor and some of the pros on this forum have suggested it's OK to rest the board on top of the flange so that the wall stays flat (and, in the case of my shower, stays even with the rest of the board on the entire wall). Then, after you go through the sealing/waterproofing steps for the wall, you use the tile to cover the flange.

md2lgyk 10-17-2013 04:07 PM

Another option is to use furring strips on the studs the Durock attaches to.

Gary in WA 10-18-2013 08:06 PM

They were not clear enough on the instructions; "3. Attachment
Place a 1/4 spacer strip or shim around lip of tub or shower
pan to hold bottom edge of cement board off lip." from; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...f7A_k8f3CvM_Yg

Fill with caulk/sealant that will give some when tub is filled with water/person. Been that way for years; 3rd para. from bottom; http://www.ctioa.org/reports/fr46.html

Gary

oh'mike 10-18-2013 08:27 PM

If you are tiling,set the board to the top of the flange---fill the resulting gap with thinset--then add your waterproofing --then tile.

Furring out the walls is seldom an option due to the problem of matching up the backer board to the drywall----

Gary in WA 10-19-2013 06:06 PM

No need to furr as the cb stops 1/4" short of the flange/lip as per directions. If you don't use caulk there; and don't mind losing the manufacturers warranty, you could fill it with thinset as Mike said, or add flashing; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...2Qi6yxaqVetTEg

Things to watch for; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...nNWXFt5rx5cW2Q

DenShield, DensGuard, Ditra, Hardie, Fiberock, and your Durock all require a gap filled with caulk above the flange.

Gary

troyer16 10-20-2013 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 1255486)
No need to furr as the cb stops 1/4" short of the flange/lip as per directions. If you don't use caulk there; and don't mind losing the manufacturers warranty, you could fill it with thinset as Mike said, or add flashing; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...2Qi6yxaqVetTEg

Things to watch for; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...nNWXFt5rx5cW2Q

DenShield, DensGuard, Ditra, Hardie, Fiberock, and your Durock all require a gap filled with caulk above the flange.

Gary

thank you, i did read the instructions but also research online showed a lot of people coming down over the flange with the cement board. if i stop above the flange, just caulk right over the screws in the flange?

ghutch 10-21-2013 07:13 PM

Here is an alternative method to consider that involves setting the backer board on top of the flange and sealing with silicone (jumping to part ii). There is extra bracing to add between the studs to create a continuous solid backing, but it seems like a worthy "out of the box thinking" approach, but I'm not a pro so I can't really vouch for the method—yay or nay.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotat...&v=95-l9CKoRiE


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