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Old 11-03-2011, 03:04 PM   #16
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Tile tub surround with window


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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Here's my suggestion:

Buy a plastic wallboard termination. It is a "J" shaped piece that will wrap the raw edge of the wallboard. Fashion four of them around the window as you install the wallboard and fit them so that they lap the window jamb leaving about 1/8" of jamb revealed on all sides. The small juncture between the jamb-side and the J-molding can be later caulked when the tile is caulked.

This way you don't require window casings or any other nonsense to make it work.

Your tile then would finish at the corner of the "J" with a bullnose or even a metal tile edging. No sill, no casing, no apron.
Do you have a pic or a link to a pic so that I know what I'm looking for when I go to the tile store?

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Old 11-03-2011, 03:06 PM   #17
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I wouldn't do any of that. Don't know why every time your tub area heats up you would want smell fresh tar.

Your best bet and the standard of the day (if there was one) would be to install the wallboard and waterproof it on the surface. Tile installations are not waterproof and water will get into your wallboard. cement board is used because water won't hurt it. But because it will get wet you need the barrier on the studs.

If you waterproof the wallboard surface then you don't need the barrier and you don't want to use it for reasons of creating condensation inside the walls.

Oh I doubt they "provided" you with it. I imagine they were more than happy to sell it to you. I'd take it back unopened.
What would you use to waterproof the durock? And also as far as sealing the seams of the durock should I just use the tape that looks like netting
and go over it with thin-set?
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:13 PM   #18
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Do you have a pic or a link to a pic so that I know what I'm looking for when I go to the tile store?
You won't find it at a tile store. You will find it at Menard's, Home depot, Lowe's, any lumber yard.

I'll try to find a picture.

You can't miss the things. They are sold in the drywall department of the home centers. They are found on a rack with long sticks of plastic corner bead and trims. Everybody has them.

Last edited by Bud Cline; 11-03-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:16 PM   #19
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What would you use to waterproof the durock? And also as far as sealing the seams of the durock should I just use the tape that looks like netting
and go over it with thin-set?
There are any number of liquid waterproofing products on the market.
Menard's has Mapei HPG found in the tile department.

Home Depot has Custom Redgard found in the tile department.

Lowe's carries one of the many Laticrete waterproofing products.

The seams get bedded with modified thinset and mesh alkali resistant tape embedded in the thinset.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:20 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
There are any number of liquid waterproofing products on the market.
Menard's has Mapei HPG found in the tile department.

Home Depot has Custom Redgard found in the tile department.

Lowe's carries one of the many Laticrete waterproofing products.

The seams get bedded with modified thinset and mesh alkali resistant tape embedded in the thinset.
I have heard of the RedGard. I don't have a Home Depot or Lowe's where I live. They are both about about 2 hours away, so I will have to look at my local home improvement store. The RedGard is just painted on with a brush or roller? Do I cover the entire surface of the durock with RedGard?
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:39 PM   #21
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Here's a picture of the "J" molding product. Anyone that sells drywall should have these pieces.

http://www.plasticomponents.com/prod...=3&SubCatId=17

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I will have to look at my local home improvement store.
Does your local home improvement store have a name?

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The RedGard is just painted on with a brush or roller?
Yes.

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Do I cover the entire surface of the durock with RedGard?
Yes.

Where are you?
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:46 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Here's a picture of the "J" molding product. Anyone that sells drywall should have these pieces.

http://www.plasticomponents.com/prod...=3&SubCatId=17


Does your local home improvement store have a name?

Pierson's Building Center, I called them and they have it $43.99 a gallonn


Yes.


Yes.

Where are you?
Eureka, CA
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:48 PM   #23
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I like Bud's finishing suggestions. A question tho- Do you intend to insulate and VB. the exterior wall behind the tub below the tub rim? Am not sure that I would be concerned about having a vapour barrier behind the cementitious backer board. Both should be well within (warm side of) the dewpoint of the insulated wall.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:58 PM   #24
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You can buy the drywall molding at Hensells in Arcada.
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Old 11-03-2011, 04:03 PM   #25
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Marvel: I like Bud's finishing suggestions. A question tho- Do you intend to insulate and VB. the exterior wall behind the tub below the tub rim?
Good point!

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Marvel: Am not sure that I would be concerned about having a vapour barrier behind the cementitious backer board.
I would, and besides that's the recommendation of the tile industry unless it is done like has already been discussed. Did you read the entire thread Marvel?
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Old 11-03-2011, 04:05 PM   #26
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I will go back and take another look - always prepared to learn something
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Old 11-03-2011, 04:08 PM   #27
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Post#12 and again in Post#14.

The OP has some decisions to make about his approach.
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:25 PM   #28
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So you recommend going with the RedGard on the durock and not using a vapor barrier on the studs? What are the positives on going with that option as opposed to the vapor barrier on the studs? I'm just trying to figure it out because I will have to spend about $100 on RedGard.

The local tile store gave me the roll of tar/felt type paper to go over the studs and just charged me $6.00 and told me to bring the roll back when I was done.

The insulation topic between you and Marvel was a little unclear to me. You would or would not insulate between the studs with the R-13 I bought?
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:36 PM   #29
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So you recommend going with the RedGard on the durock and not using a vapor barrier on the studs?
You betcha!

Quote:
What are the positives on going with that option as opposed to the vapor barrier on the studs?
The positives are you won't be saturating the cement board with water to run down behind your tub/tile caulked juncture, and developing mold will be less likely. Not that mold would be an issue anyway but there won't be the moisture necessary to feed the mold.

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I'm just trying to figure it out because I will have to spend about $100 on RedGard.
No you won't, one gallon/bucket will easily cover an entire tub surround. In fact you can add water to it if you like and cut it by 30 percent. That's what I do to get it to sink into the face of the Durock. I generally apply two maybe three coats and all from a single gallon/bucket.

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The local tile store gave me the roll of tar/felt type paper to go over the studs and just charged me $6.00 and told me to bring the roll back when I was done.
You can't do both. That's three times I said it now.

We were talking about insulating below the tub line. That sometimes gets overlooked and the answer is yes. Same for the walls above the tub.
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:48 PM   #30
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You betcha!


The positives are you won't be saturating the cement board with water to run down behind your tub/tile caulked juncture, and developing mold will be less likely. Not that mold would be an issue anyway but there won't be the moisture necessary to feed the mold.


No you won't, one gallon/bucket will easily cover an entire tub surround. In fact you can add water to it if you like and cut it by 30 percent. That's what I do to get it to sink into the face of the Durock. I generally apply two maybe three coats and all from a single gallon/bucket.
Good to know that one gallon will do the whole job I was thinking I would have to buy two gallons because the guy at Pierson's said one gallon will cover 35-40 sq ft. How much water should I add to the gallon to make it stretch further? Is two coats enough, or do you recommend 3?


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You can't do both. That's three times I said it now.
I understand that it's one or the other

This is a lot of good info. Thank you very much!

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