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Old 07-26-2013, 08:29 PM   #46
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tile shower replacement with new tile


I forgot to mention. There was a foil-like paper that separated the surface that is now visible, and the thick layer of mortar/copper coils, and tile buildup. The floor construction consisted of two separate layers of a concrete/mortar type of mix. I am planning on using an electric blanket type of floor heating. I like the idea of being able to control temps and schedule heat cycles. Tomorrow after figuring out how to terminate the copper lines in the attic, I'm going to figure out what those high spots are, and measure how much I want to raise the floor level to match the hardwood floors. Then I need to figure out if I should.mortar-down a layer of backer board to smooth and level everything, while adding thickness to achieve the desired height. I also need to do more research on installing the new
heat blankets.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:57 AM   #47
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What are you going to do for floor heat?

To level the existing floor--do not 'mortar down backer board'----that method is a failure---simply prime the existing--then pour self leveling compound---

If you are using electric floor heat---lay out your coils,then embed them in the self leveling compound---
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:22 PM   #48
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I want to go with electric heat, the style that uses a mat imbedded in the thin set under the tile. I like the idea of having a control unit to dictate when and how much heat is produced. Is there a particular brand that is better than the others? The floor can be raised up to two inches, that was one reason for using mortar?(thin set) and backer board to raise and level the subfloor. Can I still use the backer board after the self leveling compound? I'd like to get the level of the tile close to the hardwood floors.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:33 PM   #49
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The shower pan floor is in pretty good condition, I don't think it saw any leakage over the last 35 years. The worst damage or deterioration of the shower floor pan is adjacent to the drain. I was going to buy a square drain today, but all the good plumbing supply stores are closed on Saturdays. I'm planning on going first thing Monday, to get a new drain. This pan is 33" x 55". It would be easy to cut a piece of 3/4" plywood with a hole in it and install it over the existing floor. Since I am replacing the drain, it would not be hard to readjust the drain height to account for the new floor height. Does that sound like a worthwhile effort?
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:49 PM   #50
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So far all discussions have been concerning the shower floor pan and the bathroom floor. I have never tiled a shower before. The way I understand the process, I need to install backer board in the gutted shower, then tape and thin set seal all seams. What is next? Are the tiles simply glued to the backer board? The way it came apart it looked like the backer board had a wire mesh or expanded steel layer attached to the backer board, and then the tile was attached to the mesh with what looked like thin set. Thanks in advance?
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:22 PM   #51
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Backer board can not be installed over a concrete base---if you wish to add height to the floor, more cement based products must be used---for a shallow layer,self leveling compound is usually used.

When a bed deeper than an an inch is needed , deck mud is usually applied over a fresh layer of wet thinset.

I will post a link to building a shower with a liner----there is no need to build up the floor under the pan---yoou can do that with the deck mud as you build it--
How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

I usually waterproof the walls with Red Guard or Hydroban before tiling---
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:27 AM   #52
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1- Do you think my current shower pan plywood condition is OK, or should I cut a 33"x55" piece to put on top of the old plywood?

2- In pictures 4 and 6 (of your link) the drain base is sitting above the shower pan plywood, by about 1/2 " or the desired thickness of the mortar bed (in the area surrounding the drain), correct? This way, when the mortar bed is finished with the correct slope, and the membrane is layed in place, the top surface of the bottom flange is at the correct level and can make a clean seal with the underside of the membrane when the top flange is bolted down on the top side of the membrane. I'm just making sure I have the procedure correct!

3- I'll use self leveling compound to get it level before I can make the determination whether or not it needs to be raised more. I guess That decision will come after the shower pan is finished. If I do raise it more after the self leveling compound, I can use the same mix as used on the shower pan?

Did you post the shower walls link? Or did I miss it?

I have finals this week, and then I have a week off.

I am hoping to finish this project in the next couple weeks, I really appreciate the help and guidance!
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:15 PM   #53
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I cut and removed the old drain. Put down a new sheet of 3/4" plywood, and installed the shower ceiling backer board. I would have installed the new drain, but I cannot find the 2' section of 2" PVC and coupling I bought the other day. I guess I'll be heading to HD in the AM.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:17 PM   #54
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New plywood.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:20 PM   #55
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Ceiling backer board installed.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #56
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Looking good so far----did you read the link I posted on building a shower ?How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:32 PM   #57
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I capped off the copper water lines that provided the heat to the subfloor, since I'm installing an electric system back into this bathroom. I left the lines feeding the bathroom on the other side of this wall, since I'm not sure when I'll have time to remodel it.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:40 PM   #58
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Check out how the system is piped----if some other room is on that circuit--you may need to connect those pipes together so the water goes to the next room---
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:40 PM   #59
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That's why I opened up the drywall there, so I could see what's in the wall. In the pic you can see two vertical lines, one is a supply from the hot water heater and the other is the return, back to the hot water heater in the attic. They each have a T fitting at the bottom, feeding a bathroom floor on each side of the wall. After capping them I ran the water pump and put my hands on each side. Initially one side was warm and the other cold. After several minutes, they both got warmer. This was my leak check as well.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:49 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Looking good so far----did you read the link I posted on building a shower ?How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.
When I click on that link it goes to the "how to build a shower pan" link. I don't see anything about tiling a shower. I watched one on youtube this morning, but I'd like to see more.

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