Texturing drywall patch?

Doug Crf

I am wondering how is the best way blend the new texture to the exisiting texture.I know I am going to practice on a test piece
first for matching I actully have the old piece I cut out for matching in the garage but I am wondering about the meeting edge.
I removed the texture around where the joint is about 7'' or 8''
Is that enough or should I remove a little more for the taping
I have read the joint compound needs to go pretty wide over
the tape so it hides the joint pretty good.
And another question is,where I remove the old texture do I want
to have a straight edge all the way around or just kinda blend it
like try to just kinda do a unnoticeable transition and even spray
the new texture out and beyond the patch area.
Thanks for any help Doug

dougrus

Hey Doug...it Doug here...

What kind of texture are you trying to match? Is it a ceiling?
Please describe or better yet,
Do you have a picture?

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Doug Russell

"What if the hokey pokey really IS what its all about."

AtlanticWBConst.

Hi Doug,

Done a Million of these.

1st coat: 7"-8" is fine for the first coat. Your first coat will fill in, but shrink as it dries. Scrape that first coat's edges good when putting it on. This will be the thickest coat - to cover your taped seams.

2nd coat: You really should double that area on the next coat overlapping each of the edges by about 3" to 4". Make this coat a little thinner and very smooth. (Each coat is a little wider in order to blend the edges flat. (if you coated each time the same diameter pattern, it would build up the patch and not look right).

3rd Coat:You really should do one more very, very thin coat to smooth everything out good. Again, this coat should be slightly larger in diameter than the last. Go about 2" over each edge. Remember that the last thing you want is for the patch to not be at the same level as the rest of the ceiling. It shows will really show up badly.

Blend, defintely blend it, in a random pattern. DO NOT do straight edges.
The whole key to the patch being hidden is to get it:
1.) Flush with the surface of the rest of the ceiling.
2.) Blend the edges FLAT. The edges are what will give it away...or hide it if done right.

We have done so many of these, and if done right, Presto!! Can never tell.

Word of caution. Test your spray before to make sure that the new spray matches the old. There are 3 different 'sizes' of spray. The way it is mixed can effect it, as well as the way it is spayed on .
Spray randomly and 'feather' the patch edges....

Tip: We add a very small amount of flat white latex paint into the mix. (If you are mixing your own spray)
If you plan on trying to use the kind out of a spray can: Spray like you would if you were air-brushing. Smooth even strokes with shut-offs at the end of each stroke. Spray in a grid pattern. Spray one way in even strokes, then spray perpendicularly to the first pattern. Again, 'blend ' and feather the edges.

Good Luck!!

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Doug Crf

Hey guy's thanks for getting back to be.
Thanks atlantic you gave me some good info.
I have a few more questions.
The area I am fixing is where A whole house fan
was in the ceiling.I had to pull the fan out because
it did not move enough air.
I installed a bigger one and it mounted diffrent so now I
have this 3'x3' area to repair.
I just textured the ceiling about 6 months ago so I have a
hopper gun and I know the air pressure and tip size used.
Would it be better to just get the texture in the spray cans?
The ceiling is a heavy orange peel.
I used one of the spray cans to do a couple touch up
area's and the stuff seemed kinda weird,it went on and
kinda bubbled.I guess it worked alright but it was a real
small area.
If it would work good I would have no problem getting
some but I would like to know what you think ?
Is there some spray can textures that are better than
others.
Also the patch I put in is not the tighest fit.There's like
a 3/16'' around it.Is that going to be a problem?
And one more question.
I was going to cut an area out and I started to score it
with a knife,so pretty much it just looks like a thick pencil
line.Before I texture do you think I need to tape and mud it
like it is a joint or should I just sand it and go over it with
mud like I am filling in nail dimples.

Thanks for your time and good info.
Doug

AtlanticWBConst.

Doug, for the area size (3x3) and the fact that your ceiling texture sounds a little non standard spray texture, I would suggest you go with the hopper. When we have a patch that is hard to match in a room, we will usually end up re-spraying the entire ceiling in that room, so the texture is uniform.

Yes, there are. But the only one I think is decent (for very small areas)
is really for light orang peal pattern. We have used it for small areas mainly on walls. However:

You are talking about a ceiling. Ceilings must be done right because they show up 'everything' in terms of flaws.

Doug that shouldn't be a problem, when the compound that you coat over the patch is completely dry, you will see a 'raised' line from the 3/16" of compound that sags. Simply scrape these flat with a putty knife before you coat your next layer.

Doug, take the end of a putty knife's handle and 'push' the cut line flat so the raised edges of the cut paper are now indented into the drywall.
Then, coat several times like a nail dimple.

Good Luck!!

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