After much back-&-forth on sheetrock or ceiling tiles we're going with sheetrock. However instead of a flat smooth ceiling we're looking at some type of texture one. We don't want a popcorn type which is in our main house. The remodel is our 475 sq ft garage that's a large "L" shape.
Is there any process or means that can be done by a DIY or is this something for the expert mudder? Originally I was going to get someone to come in and do all the mudding. I can handle the walls but the ceiling that's another story. By the way do I have to tape and float and have it smooth for the texture? The closest thing I've seen to what we're looking at is that "star" brush effect where you just stab it on. Thanks for any suggestions.
A method that is not mentioned at "Drywallschool. com" is using a paint roller. My dad, who was a plasterer (a great one) for 28 years, recommended this method to us when we textured our entire living room and hallway (30 sheets of sheetrock). It saved moving all of our furnishings out of the room.
We used a thick nap roller and drywall mud thinned to the consistency of thick paint. Actually, the consistency is up to you. You can roll it on in any of multiple textures and patterns. Press lightly and you get a heavy peaked effect. Press more firmly and you get a smoother effect. The reason most people like this method is because they have used a paint roller numerous times.
The one thing to be aware of is that drywall mud takes more diligence to get the overlaps correct. It doesn't work like paint. It doesn't soak into the surface of the sheetrock. So, I highly recommend trying it on a scrap piece of sheetrock if you decide to try this method.
It worked very nicely for us. We did an orange peel type texture; and others by accident. Everybody who has seen it, can't believe that we did it with a roller. I have to admit, if I didn't know how it was done, I could not tell you.
I have done allot of texturing and this was the easiest method of all. The knockdown texture is the most technical. You must spray it on at the perfect consistency, let it dry to the perfect moisture content and then keep the lumps out of it. Otherwise, you will have lines, made by the lumps, that are nearly impossible to remove.
One thing to keep in mind when you are texturing is that you can remove the new "wet" texture easily with a large blade taping knife. This works great until it begins to dry.
"Slick" ceilings are the easiest to repair if and when the time comes......harder to match an existing texture. Personally I think they look better flat. My own ceilings are "stipple" (existing when I bought). There are numerous styles and it boils down to personal preference.
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