Temporary Walls - Remodeling - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-22-2010, 06:32 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Temporary walls


I want to remove a non load bearing wall in my kitchen and replace it with LVL engineered beams. It is attic space above with paper backed insulation 8 inches thick, drywall with stucko. When I build the temporary support walls can I increase the spacing of the studs from 16 inch to 24 or perhaps 30 inch centers? It will just make access between the walls so much easier. I plan on using 3- 1 1/2 x 12" x 20' beams on steel posts in place of the existing wall

Advertisement

alaus24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2010, 06:48 PM   #2
Mod
 
kwikfishron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas (NCK)
Posts: 7,812
Rewards Points: 2,526
Default

Temporary walls


I vote yes, even if there was any slight temporary sagging due to your 30” centers your new beam would straighten it all out.

The ceiling won’t collapse.

Advertisement

__________________
A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words
Especially In The DIY Chatroom
kwikfishron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2010, 09:45 PM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,983
Rewards Points: 2,032
Default

Temporary walls


Why a temp wall if truly non-bearing? Why a LVL, not another couple of ceiling joists (2x12) with spacer between? You are holding up drywall (1/2 of the span from wall to next joist) and texture, on both sides.

Be safe, Gary
__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2010, 10:05 PM   #4
Mod
 
kwikfishron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas (NCK)
Posts: 7,812
Rewards Points: 2,526
Default

Temporary walls


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Why a temp wall if truly non-bearing? Why a LVL, not another couple of ceiling joists (2x12) with spacer between? You are holding up drywall (1/2 of the span from wall to next joist) and texture, on both sides.

Be safe, Gary
I completely agree if the assumption is the ceiling joist don't break on that wall
.
If they do, a temp. all wouldnít hurt but wouldn't necessarily be necessary either.

Not much different than do I need to jack my house up to replace a few feet of rotted sill.
__________________
A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words
Especially In The DIY Chatroom
kwikfishron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2010, 04:59 PM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Temporary walls


I do not want a bulk head (this is going to open up the kitchen/ living room)so to get a flat ceiling I will be cutting out a piece of the ceiling joists (4.5 in )to insert the beams with steel posts and use hangers. That is why I need temporary walls. LVL is to be used because the span of 20 feet is exactly what they are designed for, they have no crown and when bolted and glued together they will not sag or shrink with age. I will be installing the posts over a 6 inch I beam that runs the length of the basement.
alaus24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2010, 09:14 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,983
Rewards Points: 2,032
Default

Temporary walls


So the ceiling joists are bearing on the new beam.... Part of the roof framing may be supported as well if you have any purlins and struts in the attic: Page #39: http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...joists&f=false

The ceiling joists are under tension holding the exterior walls together, keeping the rafters up off your head when eating breakfast. (Page #40). If you hanger them, use a LUS (shear) hanger and the proper size nail called for or take a reduction for the uplift loads and shear flow (not advisable). http://myconco.com/ComEngProb.html

All shear hangers require the longer nails: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...ace_ss-df1.asp

Remember to add floor space solid blocking if the posts don’t rest directly on the beam below.

Use a temporary wall depending on the drywall ceiling finish (texture mud, stucco, etc.), the joist span, and the insulation load.

NOTE: you had a distributed load and are changing to concentrated loads. I suggest consulting a Structural Engineer and going through your local building Department.

Be safe, Gary

Advertisement

__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Looking for a step by step for framing basement walls/2x4's wrong direction/stairs??? xray328 Remodeling 27 06-19-2011 09:50 PM
Insulating walls for heated garage Huskie Building & Construction 5 09-19-2009 01:54 PM
Installing Plumbing in 2Ē Wide Walls? Robert1_1 Plumbing 5 09-16-2009 09:43 AM
bowing walls - repair? elementx440 Building & Construction 26 03-04-2009 04:07 PM
Moisture on walls chrisr Building & Construction 1 01-20-2008 10:37 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts