Temporary walls

alaus24

I want to remove a non load bearing wall in my kitchen and replace it with LVL engineered beams. It is attic space above with paper backed insulation 8 inches thick, drywall with stucko. When I build the temporary support walls can I increase the spacing of the studs from 16 inch to 24 or perhaps 30 inch centers? It will just make access between the walls so much easier. I plan on using 3- 1 1/2 x 12" x 20' beams on steel posts in place of the existing wall

kwikfishron

I vote yes, even if there was any slight temporary sagging due to your 30” centers your new beam would straighten it all out.

The ceiling won’t collapse.

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Gary in WA

Why a temp wall if truly non-bearing? Why a LVL, not another couple of ceiling joists (2x12) with spacer between? You are holding up drywall (1/2 of the span from wall to next joist) and texture, on both sides.

Be safe, Gary

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kwikfishron

I completely agree if the assumption is the ceiling joist don't break on that wall
.
If they do, a temp. all wouldn’t hurt but wouldn't necessarily be necessary either.

Not much different than do I need to jack my house up to replace a few feet of rotted sill.

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alaus24

I do not want a bulk head (this is going to open up the kitchen/ living room)so to get a flat ceiling I will be cutting out a piece of the ceiling joists (4.5 in )to insert the beams with steel posts and use hangers. That is why I need temporary walls. LVL is to be used because the span of 20 feet is exactly what they are designed for, they have no crown and when bolted and glued together they will not sag or shrink with age. I will be installing the posts over a 6 inch I beam that runs the length of the basement.

Gary in WA

So the ceiling joists are bearing on the new beam.... Part of the roof framing may be supported as well if you have any purlins and struts in the attic: Page #39: http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...joists&f=false

The ceiling joists are under tension holding the exterior walls together, keeping the rafters up off your head when eating breakfast. (Page #40). If you hanger them, use a LUS (shear) hanger and the proper size nail called for or take a reduction for the uplift loads and shear flow (not advisable). http://myconco.com/ComEngProb.html

All shear hangers require the longer nails: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...ace_ss-df1.asp

Remember to add floor space solid blocking if the posts don’t rest directly on the beam below.

Use a temporary wall depending on the drywall ceiling finish (texture mud, stucco, etc.), the joist span, and the insulation load.

NOTE: you had a distributed load and are changing to concentrated loads. I suggest consulting a Structural Engineer and going through your local building Department.

Be safe, Gary

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