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Old 10-01-2008, 12:32 PM   #31
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Tapcon into concrete.


OP: grab a can of Great Stuff expanding foam and a couple pieces of scrap foam board to practice with. apply a bead of Stuff to one pc of foam (stay away from the edge 1" or 1 1/2" ). Next, place the other pc of foam on top and kind of squish and slide it around a little bit and then pull it off. This spreads the Stuff around and will eliminate the expanding properties. In approx 1 minute, depending on temp and humidity, the Stuff should start to tack up and become stringy when you touch it with your finger and pull it away. If low humidity, use a spray bottle with water and lightly mist the Stuff after squishing it around. Once it becomes tacky, place the foam pcs back together and hold firmly until bonded, usually just a minute or two. You may have to try a couple pcs to get the hang of it and see how works.

If satisfied with the results, use the same process and start applying your insulation to the walls. If you decide to use this method, when the Stuff is not going to be used for a few minutes or overnight, bend the straw at the end and clamp with vise grips or something similar to prevent the glue from drying in the straw.

If you have alot of square footage, you might want to google EnerFoam (made by the same company as Stuff and basicly the same, wind loaded to 150 mph I think) and find a distributor near you. You can buy a 26 oz can for around 20 bucks and a dispensing gun for around 45. With the gun you can adjust the bead size and close it down without having the hassle of it drying in the straw. If taken care of, the gun will last for a long time and you will probably find it useful for other projects.

I hope this helps.

Baxter

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Old 10-02-2008, 01:42 PM   #32
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Tapcon into concrete.


Ok....I am having sweet success. I want to thank everyone for their input. Compiling everyone's input into practical use here is the score:

1. drill through your other material with another bit as a precaution to keep your masonry bit clean (thanks 47 47)
2. steady straight pressure is your friend!! (special thanks to RippySkippy)
3. ensure that you drill the hole into the concrete 1/4 inch deeper than the screw will penetrate
4. if your concrete is really old and very hard like mine you are likely goingto need a new bit. I have heard from many people that the Tapcon-supplied bit is crap (although many here have had success with them). If you are following all previous steps (1-3) and having no progress then I suggest the Bosch Blue Granite Hammer Drill Bit. At $7 it has already paid for itself by giving me a stress free session working in the basement with no curse words.

Still honeymooning it but so far it hasn't 'hit' anything that it didn't drill through and actually seemed like a completely different experience than using the other bits.

Long-term progress report in a couple of days after I have 50 holes or so drilled.

Last edited by smorgdonkey; 10-02-2008 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:45 PM   #33
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Tapcon into concrete.


Congrats! Kinda sweet when something works isn't it?
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:52 PM   #34
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Tapcon into concrete.


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Congrats! Kinda sweet when something works isn't it?
Emphatically YES!!!

Particularly when it was going SOOOO BAD prior...

Thanks again.
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:06 PM   #35
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Tapcon into concrete.


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Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
Another way to attach foam to concrete is to use "stick clips".

A stick clip has a large base that you glue to the concrete. Out of the middle of the base is a prong that's 2, 3, 4, 6 or 8 inches long.

You just impale the foam onto the sticks, and then push on metal "washers" (that will push on, but won't come off) to hold the foam snugly in place.

You can buy stick clips at any hardware store or home center.
Just finished using stick pins for insulating a basement wall.
Just place a dab of construction adhesive where you want to locate the pin. Press the perforated pin base into the dab and leave over-night.
Then press the insulation over the pin and secure it with a locking tab.
The sharp end of the pin is then turned back on itself to prevent injuries.
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:11 PM   #36
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Just finished using stick pins for insulating a basement wall.
Just place a dab of construction adhesive where you want to locate the pin. Press the perforated pin base into the dab and leave over-night.
Then press the insulation over the pin and secure it with a locking tab.
The sharp end of the pin is then turned back on itself to prevent injuries.
...and how do you attach your drywall?
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:54 PM   #37
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...and how do you attach your drywall?
In my case, i used Roxul bat insulation with a vapor barrier
over the top. had no plan to add drywall.

If foam insulation is used and it must be covered with a fire barrier, the pins could be cut at the locking tab and the board glued to the foam.

I personally, would not use foam on wall, if board is required.
I would install studs and mount the board to this in an approved manner. Insulated in the stud cavity, of course.
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Old 10-03-2008, 06:41 AM   #38
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That's fine if there is no activity in the area that will cause damage to the vapor barrier and such and/or if the space is not going to be used.

My point for asking how the drywall is attached is that the foams do require being covered due to the fire issue.

I am planning on covering the wall with foam and strapping then sandwiching another layer of foam over the strapping with the drywall. Super insulated walls with very little space being used up. I think that is far superior to using the typical 'insulation inside the stud cavity' method with no 'breaks' in the insulation due to the studs and less affected by moisture/humidity issues as well.
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:39 PM   #39
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That's fine if there is no activity in the area that will cause damage to the vapor barrier and such and/or if the space is not going to be used.

My point for asking how the drywall is attached is that the foams do require being covered due to the fire issue.

I am planning on covering the wall with foam and strapping then sandwiching another layer of foam over the strapping with the drywall. Super insulated walls with very little space being used up. I think that is far superior to using the typical 'insulation inside the stud cavity' method with no 'breaks' in the insulation due to the studs and less affected by moisture/humidity issues as well.
I like studded walls as its easy to mount electrical boxes, run cables, fasten drywall, install baseboards and hang heavy stuff such as bookcases and TV's.
Window coves can be finished easily, as there is good nailing around the perimeter.
In the future its possible fish the walls if necessary.
In the past I've considered the same thing that you plan, but always ended up with wood studs, as they allow maximum flexibility.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:08 PM   #40
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I like studded walls as its easy to mount electrical boxes, run cables, fasten drywall, install baseboards and hang heavy stuff such as bookcases and TV's.
Window coves can be finished easily, as there is good nailing around the perimeter.
In the future its possible fish the walls if necessary.
In the past I've considered the same thing that you plan, but always ended up with wood studs, as they allow maximum flexibility.
All good points indeed. Can't argue with any of them. I suppose that my situation is a bit unique in some ways such as I have no windows (previous owner insulated them, closed them up and covered them with tin on the outside).

My basement is nice and dry as far as basements go and my garage is in my basement as well (of course divided by a wall from the rest of the space). I may end up using it as a master bedroom in the future (although I have a drum kit and my laundry facilities down there too).

Anyway, as a first plunge into a DIY project I am comfortable with my choices so far (I did a pile of research) and happy with my progress after my initial hiccups...

On a related note to the hiccups...I happened to step on my Bosch drill bit and it bent a little...I straightened it as best I could but there's a good wobble in it...and it is STILL cutting through the concrete smoothly...then I went a notch further and started going through the insulation with it and still no problems.

The Tapcon supplied drill bits suck compared to the beautiful Bosch!!
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Old 10-03-2008, 07:30 PM   #41
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Tapcon into concrete.


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I may end up using it as a master bedroom in the future.
This would be against code in Illinois since there are no windows. I also believe they have to be large enough to allow escape in case of a fire.
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Old 10-04-2008, 03:53 AM   #42
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This would be against code in Illinois since there are no windows. I also believe they have to be large enough to allow escape in case of a fire.
It would be here too I believe but I have the stairs to get to the main level AND a door to get out my garage...so, since there are 2 means of escape possibly there could be an exception(?).
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Old 10-04-2008, 06:14 PM   #43
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Tapcon into concrete.


Almost a box of screws finished and the Bosch is still going strong...once in a while I try to bend it straight again with very little success but what the heck!!


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