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-   -   Taking out a portion of a bearing wall... (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/taking-out-portion-bearing-wall-2170/)

mailsmc 04-02-2006 03:53 PM

Taking out a portion of a bearing wall...
 
I have a 1950's brick ranch, the kind where there is a main bearing wall that runs the full length of the house from end to end, splitting the house in half lengthwise. I want to take out, at one end, a 10 ft section of this bearing wall. To support the 10 ft section being taken out, I was hoping I could put a 2x10 on either side of the exhisting 2-2x4 beams there now, instead of the traditional way of nailing them together to put them underneith the 2-2x4's. At each end, under the 2x10's I would put 2x6's down to the floor. Is this structurely sound, or a no go ? My local hardware store said it was a no go, that I should use 2 LVL's at combinded cost of $88, along with putting 2-2x10's at each end under the LVL's down to the floor.... Is using the LVL's overkill, or the correct thing to do? Need help fast as my husband is insisting on not buying the LVL's and I don't want my roof to cave in.. Thanks

redline 04-02-2006 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mailsmc
I have a 1950's brick ranch, the kind where there is a main bearing wall that runs the full length of the house from end to end, splitting the house in half lengthwise. I want to take out, at one end, a 10 ft section of this bearing wall. To support the 10 ft section being taken out, I was hoping I could put a 2x10 on either side of the exhisting 2-2x4 beams there now, instead of the traditional way of nailing them together to put them underneith the 2-2x4's. At each end, under the 2x10's I would put 2x6's down to the floor. Is this structurely sound, or a no go ? My local hardware store said it was a no go, that I should use 2 LVL's at combinded cost of $88, along with putting 2-2x10's at each end under the LVL's down to the floor.... Is using the LVL's overkill, or the correct thing to do? Need help fast as my husband is insisting on not buying the LVL's and I don't want my roof to cave in.. Thanks

How wide is the house?
If you look up inside of the attic is there any structure above the main bearing wall where you want to make the 10 foot opening on the main floor?

Bonus 04-02-2006 10:56 PM

Another issue you want to be aware of is the load from your new beam downwards. This load must be supported and cannot simply sit on the floor. What is under the floor? If I was doing it I would be going with the LvL's supported on two new studs at each end and then carrying that load through to the foundation. What you're doing here is concentrating a bunch of load (weight) into two points (one each end of the new beam) if the those point loads fall between two floor joists then deflection is possible. I would guess that you have a short wall under the load-bearing wall the full length of the house in the crawlspace. (If you have a crawlspace) If so then it would be simple enough to get in there and make sure that the floor under the point loads is supported. Have I confused you? Sorry if I did, let me know and I'll try again.

"along with putting 2-2x10's at each end" I don't know what they're talking about here, I've never seen 2x10's used in this fashion, 2x4 or 2x6 (whatever your existing wall is made of) would be ample.

wafrederick 05-04-2006 12:21 PM

Consult a strutural engineer first.Do this first before doing any demolition.


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