Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-21-2007, 04:08 PM   #46
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,629
Rewards Points: 1,078
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Actually he has a can of bongo which sounds like it might be illegal, LOL.

I think the poly finish will turn out great with some light sanding and a couple more coats. I agree with the need for the support. Hang in there "K" - it will turn out ok!

PS - you would be surprised at how usefull bondo is for many things besides auto bodies. "K" started off wanting a paint finish and thats why the bondo was suggested for the edge voids.

jogr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 08:29 AM   #47
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Installed some parts of the shelf last weekend, here is what we found out:

- staining definitely looks good. we like it....
- using oil base I believe is a mistake... why... take too long to wait and the big smell... I am going to try water base on my next closet.
- it is a good learning experience and the outcome is good. I recommend it to everyone...


Now small questions:

- when I used the form brush to apply the poly, it is good for the first time... but second layer the form brush come apart, the pad fall out of the stick... is there any trick to store the brush while it is waiting the four or more hours for the second layer....I tried two approach, both no good, one is to drop it in pain thiner...second is to put it inside a plastic bag... last time I just used a regular brush to save this harrsel... but form brush is nicer if I know how to resue it... don't want to buy a new one for every layer....

- going to try the iron on thing rahter than the wood filler approach... because wife said the wood filler approach still not look as nice... but it looks ok... so what ever done will leave it... for new ones will try the iron on thing...

and thanks for the tips on the shelf for post upstair (Jeekinz) ... so far all the shelf I made has hanging stuff inside, so support is not a problem... but I am going to build som shelf which does not and your idea is perfect thanks.

Actually, now I remember, the shelf I intend which can be put to flessible locations... so I was thinking to use those Ikea idea which have a whole bunch of small holes on the for side and with those small cylinder steel insert into the holes for support... but Jeekinz idea is good for fix shelf... I may need to think about this more... because to be honest, once the shelf setup... never really move it around....

Jeekinz, how do you use table saw to do the groove cut... I know you can do the other one... but for groove....how do you do it...

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 09-24-2007 at 10:23 AM.
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 12:08 PM   #48
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 276
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


The foam brushes can only be used for a certain amount of time before they fall apart. You can use just a rag to apply the stain, then use a good brush to apply the poly. If you use a cheap brush on the poly, you will get loose bristles in the finish. So get a good brush, but clean it after you use it. The poly needs to fully dry before the next coat. Lightly sand the first coat with 220.

For the shelving, even with the shelf being supported on both sides, 3/4" plywood will still bow. These shelve are upside down, but you get the idea:





To make the grove, the easiest way is with a dado blade. If you don't have a dado blade, you will need to carefully measure out the thickness of the shelf and make multiple passes on the table saw to achieve the groove.
Jeekinz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 12:13 PM   #49
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Thanks ... but as the shelf is not to be use for heavy items like books... and it is not that wide... like 20" only so I am going to not to do this for this time... but this is definitely good knowledge stuff... for the future projects now that I kind of like wood working a lot and hope one day I can start working with Router ...

anyway... thanks for the foam/brush information... I do use a quality brush... my question is then how exactly do you store/clean the brush... what I did is I just soak it into a metal can of paint thinner... when ready to be used again... I take it out and try to dry it thoroughly against some cotten cloths... needless to say... the paint thinner got all the color in it...

also some other tips for beginner like me:

- start finish the rough face first rather than the good face for a pice of wood, two reasons: get experience... and the last face I did is facing up to wait... for stuff... and the down face sometime got screw up for things underneath...

- don't do any cutting while poly is wait to be dry... or try to do all cutting at a completely different time when finishing is in process.... no matter how far you do, like me try to cut in the lawn... dust still find its way onto the surface

- use water base for DIY's beginner sake... although I haven't tried it myself yet on this one

- you need a lot of cotton old cloths....

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 09-24-2007 at 12:18 PM.
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 12:25 PM   #50
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 276
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Here's some more detail on the cut. Use a srap piece of wood to check for fit first, so you don't ruin a good piece of lumber. After the second cut, slightly move the fence to 'nibble' away at the rest of the waste.

Jeekinz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 12:39 PM   #51
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


cool... picture tells a thousand words...
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 05:46 AM   #52
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 999
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Without a dado blade (I assume Kui****g is using a small benchtop table-saw, so he can't put a dado on it), it is probably best to cut a rabbet instead. (Like in the photo Jeekinz posted). Lay the piece flat, and make a cut 3/4" from the edge, and 1/4" deep. Then stand the piece up against the fence, with that shallow cut facing the blade, and towards the bottom of the workpiece. Make a 3/4" deep cut that meets the 1/4" deep cut you made first.

(Maybe Jeekinz needs to illustrate my posts for me. )
NateHanson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 08:13 AM   #53
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


I got that figure out.... how about the drawer's face piece, can I also do that with table saw rather than a router? you know the drawer's face is like it edge are all trimed somewhat around the perimeter....

also what is the best way to clean/store brush when it done with poly ...ready for next use...

thanks a lot for all the help all along... I am getting there.... it just kind of a slow process... but it is fun, would be best if the smell isn't there...
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 09:14 AM   #54
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 999
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Clean the brush with brush cleaner, wash with soap and water, dry completely, store wrapped in brown paper to keep it straight.

Regarding your question on the drawers, I think you're asking about putting a rabbet around 3 or 4 sides of overlapped drawer fronts? That can be done as I described for the shelf edging. Just set your saw for the first cut, and cut all three or 4 edges (I usually don't overlap the bottom edge, because it tends to get broken off over time). Then stand the piece up against the fence, and make your other cuts for all 3 or 4 edges. If you are cutting out a square rabbet (1/4 x 1/4" for example), then you can leave the fence and blade set the same way for both cuts. Make the face cuts first, then stand the workpiece up with the cut edge AGAINST the fence, and make your edge cuts. If you set the saw so that the height of the blade equals the distance from the fence to the far edge of the blade, you'll get a nice clean even rabbet.
NateHanson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 09:36 AM   #55
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


thanks for the brush tips... yes... I am talking about the drawer front piece... I was thinking using those plywood laminate and cut its edge to make it as one piece , no glue or somthing... but looks like you are recommending me use the same maple board and glue somthing on its 3 or 4 edge... I see.... except I am not 100% how exactly it looks, if I know how it looks ... I probably can figure out how it being cut with or without understanding your description... I think we need Jeekinz's drawing... .. thanks for taking the time answering my post...
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 09:41 AM   #56
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 999
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


I think I'd need a better description or drawing of your design to see what you have planned for the drawers.

Drawer faces should be solid wood, or have solid wood edging glued to all four edges of a plywood drawer face. They can overlap with the full 3/4" thickness of your wood, or for a more delicate look, you can rabbet about 1/2 the thickness away, so that the drawer face overlaps partially, and only sticks out 3/8 of an inch from the face-frame of the cabinet.

How are you building your drawer boxes?
NateHanson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 10:12 AM   #57
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


there is instruction in one of the web site telling how to build drawer... http://pages.areaguides.com/ubuild/drawer.htm but it doesn't talk about how to build the front piece ... the box is pretty straight forward base on the instruction...
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 12:33 PM   #58
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 276
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


For the drawer, you will make a box first, then attach the front to the front piece of the box. If you use plywood on the front of the drawer, you can't rout a decorative edge and will need to just band the edge of the plywood. Like Nate said, use solid wood for the drawer fronts.

You may have to glue up two smaller pieces of stock to achieve the width you need.
Jeekinz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 12:47 PM   #59
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


but I am talking about those plywood from planner they sell in HD somthing like 12" x 8' or shorter... they are like solid wood but strps stick together... can I use those ? actually solid wood is fine... they selling those as well in HD except more expensive.... if I have to I have to... but how do I trim the edge of the solid wood to make it looks nice... use table saw? or I have to use router?

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 09-25-2007 at 12:49 PM.
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 12:50 PM   #60
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 999
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


You mean the wood that has those zig-zag scarf joints every 12 inches or so? You certainly could use that stuff, but the grain pattern is strange, the wood is very soft, and those scarf joints will look weird when you rout a profile on the edge.

NateHanson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Problem - Polyurethane bleaches out Stain Color on Maple Table GhanaBhuti Painting 9 09-05-2011 10:50 AM
Portable table saw stand baldeagle51 Tools 3 11-14-2010 08:04 PM
Looking for Japanese dining room table plans dantefontana Carpentry 3 03-01-2008 08:11 PM
Question about table saws,... tribaloverkill Tools 28 04-13-2007 08:47 AM
Building simple table boxer1-2 Carpentry 3 05-16-2005 09:34 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.