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Old 09-19-2007, 10:03 AM   #16
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Hi Yummy Mummy,

I am in the process of making the closet, will show you when it done... I didn't bother to show the old one for comparison as just too lazy to take picture... when I doing so much handy work thing... digital thing become high tech thing for me and I am kind of not used to it although I am working as a computer person as my job ... but when I went home... I am a different person....

anyway... I found out yesterday... I should have use Maple wood rather than Plywood... so I refund the plywood and scrap one piece for future use... Maple wood is so much nicer... I now even want to stain it rahter than white paint it... gee ... things do get change when you start doing it... now I care about the edge cover as I don't want it to look bad at any angle... I am going to HD at lunch hour to check it out.... just Don't use Plywood.... use Maple.... for everything.... fyi... ply wood cost $30 bucks... maple cost $55 buckss... but the quality/look is 10 fold... buy the 4x8 one... cost much less from any angle you look at them than those smaller pieces...

re-read NataHanson post (obviously he is an experienced guy)... I need to do solid edging as well as I am staining it... Do I need a router kind of stuff do generate this solid edging stuff... or do they sell ready made one for 3/4" thickness.... thanks....

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Old 09-19-2007, 12:56 PM   #17
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


You can get iron-on maple edge banding. It is very thin (probably about 1/32") and sold in rolls at a woodworking store. That would be easiest, however, it's not always as durable as it should be, and can be chipped or worn off.

Lumber yards sell solid maple boards (3/4" thick) which you can rip down to 1/4" wide strips, and glue/brad-nail them onto your edges, sanding them flush to the surface of the plywood. These will be more durable, but not perfect. Best would be to use a router or tablesaw to create a tongue on the plywood edge, and saw a groove into the back of your maple edging. Then glue them together. This would be the strongest edging.

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Old 09-19-2007, 01:17 PM   #18
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Hi Nate,

Thanks again... gee.. you really knows a lot... may be it is basic information... but to me who know nothing... it is a lot of information...

Just went off HD... I bought the bongo filler you are talking about though yesterday(although they don't call it that way)... but now you mentioned this iron-on maple edging stuff... may be I need to check it out again may be refund this guy.... I have no idea where the lumber yard are in my area and the tonque and gloove is probably wait too much that I can handle as I have no idea how to use router or what exactly it is "yet"...

so between this "bongo" stuff and "iron-on" stuff... which will produce a better result or they are about the same... and consider I am doing staining.. does it has any effect which way should go ...

also, I bought a can of pre-stain, a can of stain, and a can of poly... is this pre-stain stuff really necessary or it is a waste of money stuff, it said it will let the stain distributed evently....etc...

thanks a lot

for whoever may be interested... I spent 242 bucks so far... I think I made the right decision to DIY... for one they sure wouldn't give you maple wood....probably MFD like all those book shelfs you get from IKEA...

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Old 09-19-2007, 02:16 PM   #19
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


If you are painting, the bondo will be better than the iron-on banding, which could chip, and is more work.

If you want to stain, you can't use bondo. It is grey, and will look horrible if you stain it. The iron on banding will be best. You'll need to use a razor, chisel, handplane, or specific edge-band trimming tool to cut it flush to the plywood. Make sure you are cutting in the direction that the grain is pointing away from you, so it doesn't tear the edge-banding. (For example, if the grain is going //////// you cut >>> left to right on the top, and <<<right to left on the bottom.)

I'm not sure what this "pre-stain" is that you're talking about. Maybe it's a sanding sealer? That's basically a thin finish (often shellac or thinned poly, I think), which you apply, then sand lightly. It is good for getting a smoother finish. I don't know about staining over it. Personally I don't use oil pigment stains (which is what minwax type products are) because they produce a very muddy finish on the wood, and collect in the pores of the wood. So I can't tell you much about how to apply them. I would think that you could apply them over a sealer, but they will not stain very darkly. I use water stains, which are much more forgiving and very natural looking. You can get them at a woodworking store. To use those, first wipe the unfinished wood with a wet cloth, allow it to dry, and then lightly sand off the wood fibers which will be raised by the moisture. Then wipe on the water stain with a foam brush. If it is uneven, or there are runs, just wipe it with a nearly dry cloth. The stain will dry in an hour or less, and you can then coat with any finish that is not water-based.
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:11 PM   #20
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


thanks again... here is the story then

the bongo stuff I got they don't call it bongo but something like wood filler etc.etc. and is labelled as stainable/sandable

the pre-stain stuff I got is from MiniMax and they said help the wood to absorb the stain evenly, not the sealer/sanding stuff you are talking about

and I bought the oil based stuff only as the store staff said it looks better than water based....

gee don't know if I did it all wrong... but since I alread bought it, I am going to scrafice a small piece or two pieces to try them out all these things...

gee this closet thing taking me longer... hope my wife wont bug me saying no closet for a week or two stuff... at least she can still take her bath...

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Old 09-19-2007, 03:16 PM   #21
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Wood filler usually doesn't harden, and can't be sanded. Bondo is a polyester resin based filler that sets up in about an hour to a hard sandable finish.

I doubt home depot has water stains. They may have water-based finishes (with stain in them), but I'm talking about powdered dyes that you add water to, and they disolve in it. The problem with oil pigments is that they are not disolved in the finish, they're just pieces of color junk that are suspended in the mineral spirits, and they get smeared onto your workpiece. They don't dye the wood, they just sit on top of it to give it color.
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:38 PM   #22
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now you scare me... should I refund all the stuff and go to BanjaminMoore to try my luck at least they got better reputation on paints may be stain stuff as well...

the wood filler stuff they said hardened and sand...in a couple of hours etc and with light wood color etc.etc.... gee... that one I am going to try as if it works, safe me a lot of headache...

regarding oil stain color etc... are there someone out there has other opinion as well.. not that I don't trust Nate... just always help to hear more opinion...

for sure HD don't got that dye thing mix with water... all they sell is ready made cans stuff which u can use right away.... gee this painting stuff seems getting complicated if I need to mix with water like mixing thinset....

thanks for spending time to explain to me... Nate... may you tell me a little bit about your wood working background as you seems knows a lot...
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:40 PM   #23
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


I'm a designer and builder of high-end custom furniture. I went to the "Furniture Institute of Massachusetts" for 2 years, studying with Philip C. Lowe.

If you want more wood-finishing options, i wouldn't go to Benjamin Moore. I'd go to a woodworking store. Around here it would be a Woodcraft or Rockler store. Woodworker's Supply is a good online resource.
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:59 PM   #24
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


I would love to see some of the designs of your custom furniture.

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Old 09-20-2007, 09:08 AM   #25
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


used the HD stuff... they are fine... stain is easy to apply... the wood filler stuff on edge is good enough for my purpose... they are very similar to do tapping on drywall.. the pre-stain stuff I really not sure if they have any purpose , but used them anyway ...

my wife is already bugging me saying taking too long... got to finsh the basic skelaton today or tommorrow...

not much to ask today seems I kind of got everything figure out by now...
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:24 AM   #26
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Glad things are working out Kui****g.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yummy mummy View Post
I would love to see some of the designs of your custom furniture.

Here's a detail of one of my favorites. This is a small ovular drop-leaf table (pembroke table). It's about 40" wide. Perfect for tea for two.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:06 AM   #27
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


Beautiful, NateHanson!

Is that inlaid wood?
I have a jewellery box from Italy, that looks something like that.
I believe it is called inlaid wood?


You are a true craftsman!
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:19 AM   #28
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don't know I will try that in my life time... this is kind of outside my league... but very nice...
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:28 AM   #29
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Table or Circular saw for cutting 16" from 4x8


While using the oil base stain, the instruction says wipe off the excess with a clean cloth... and said don't wait until it dry out before wipping out the excess... that leads me to a question: how long I should wait before wipping out the excess normally... I know different weather has a different answer... but just approx... do I wipe them off in 1 minutes, 2 minutes, 10 minutes. 15 minutes... as I worried about it got dry out so I kind of wipping them off 2 to 3 minutes after last night... I don't know if I should wait longer as looks like a lot of them come out... I guess it doesn't harm as I might waste some stains and need to apply more layers... but if I have a ball-park wait time it would help...

thanks...
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:39 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Beautiful, NateHanson!

Is that inlaid wood?
Thanks. Yes, it's inlay. The primary wood is mahogany. The white stringing and flowers are holly. The background of the oval inlay is Claro Walnut. The banding around the table edge is holly and rosewood.

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