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Old 01-31-2012, 01:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by <*(((>< View Post
Willie T, thank you for your time that you spend doing some of your drawings, I've seen it on many threads and appreciate the time spent. And I'm not even the OP.
No problem. I enjoy it. Besides, what else I gotta do?

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Old 01-31-2012, 02:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarheelTerp View Post
Absolutely agree.
Unfortunately... none of those layouts will work (fit).
The problem here is that I'm NOT starting with a blank page.

I can expand the opening to 9'10" (118") but the height remains 99" floor to floor with no more than 87" finished clearance. Using these parameters is how I came up with what I'm showing on my drawing which may not be ideal but is far better than what I have now.

Perfect is the enemy of good enough.
c'est la vie.
That's why I was thinking about using the landing. Turned that way, 90 degrees, you could perhaps open up a lot more flooring hole space...... barring running into stuff we don't know about. Remember that the floor hole turn can be supported by a column at the landing corner...... although, depending on what you have above, this might mean bringing in an engineer.
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:09 PM   #18
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A thought...... Have you looked at opening up the flooring hole at BOTH ends?


And.... there is always the possibility of making a full 180 turn at the landing. This will often eliminate any headroom problems, altogether. But it does eat up more width.
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
A thought...... Have you looked at opening up the flooring hole at BOTH ends?
I don't *want* to do it at even one end. If I had to do more... I might choose to do dramatically more. But I have enough on my plate already.

Would you mind running my numbers through your program please?
-opening expanded to 118"; still 99" floor to floor.
-8.75" tread with 7" riser; 1.25" nose.

This has some fudge in it too (3.5" horizontal and 1" vertical).
Make us a pretty picture and see how far off from "ideal" this compromise is?
Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarheelTerp View Post
I don't *want* to do it at even one end. If I had to do more... I might choose to do dramatically more. But I have enough on my plate already.

Would you mind running my numbers through your program please?
-opening expanded to 118"; still 99" floor to floor.
-8.75" tread with 7" riser; 1.25" nose.

This has some fudge in it too (3.5" horizontal and 1" vertical).
Make us a pretty picture and see how far off from "ideal" this compromise is?
Thanks.
Here it is, with the measurements you asked for, using 3/4" risers to get the 1.25" nosing.

Actually, the rise runs closer to 7-1/16" than to an even 7" to match up with the 99" height.

You are still way short of code headroom (80") You COULD lose one riser height by sliding the set to the right...... but then you would have no way to fasten the upper end of the stringers.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
Actually, the rise runs closer to 7-1/16"...
OK. 7" was the closest whole number when I did the math.

You are still way short of code headroom (80")...
Where? Where is **my** drawing short of headroom?

You COULD lose one riser height by sliding the set to the right...
I'm using the next floor as the last step.

... but then you would have no way to fasten the upper end of the stringers.
Let's cross one bridge at a time.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:24 PM   #22
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To determine headroom, you lay a straight edge on the tips of the treads, on the slope of the stairs. From that line vertically to the shortest part of anything overhead is the legal headroom.

Using the top floor as the last step can cause some difficult attachment problems.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarheelTerp View Post
Let's cross one bridge at a time.
this can be a recipe for disaster in construction. Every path, hill, rabbit trail and bridge needs to be known, calculated, and solved before beginning anything.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:38 PM   #24
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I get the rise at 7.615" which is a light 5/8" or a heavy 9/16", use top floor as your last step, leaves 12 treads. If you cut the run on the stringer 9 inches you will have a tread of 10.25" with a 1.25 over hang which is code. 9inches for the run X 12 tread cuts will = 108 inches. So you wind up with 7 5/8X9 inch rise and run.

No place to nail the stringers at the top, just build a header and secure it low enough that the stringers will fasten into it, furr the rest of the rise out, it will only kick the stairs out by 3 1/2 inches or so.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiju1943 View Post
I get the rise at 7.615" which is a light 5/8"...
use top floor as your last step, leaves 12 treads.

If you cut the run on the stringer at 9" inches
you will have a tread of 10.25" with a 1.25 over hang
(and a step rise of 6 1/2")
This works! Thanks.

Quote:
No place to nail the stringers at the top, just build a header...
I'll have 3 complete walls around this stairwell... I can do all sorts of things.
Thanks again.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:54 PM   #26
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Here it is set up at a riser shorter and slid tighter to the right so you can use the top floor level as the final step... still using your requested measurements... 8-3/4" run x 7-1/16" rise stringer cuts.

Now you will have to build a header, and that kind of sucks if you are going for any kind of looks, considering the angled bottom necessary to carry the visual stringer line will now need to be boxed in... if you decide not to put that end wall there.

Beefing it up to 2 x 12 risers, this will give you 9.75 of foot placement with a 1" nosing. If you are using 2 x 12 for treads also, you can slip the treads forward a bit to get as much as 11" of foot placement if you choose, but that will give you excessive nosing overhang.

If you use only 3/4" riser boards, you can run the treads all the way back in, and have 10-1/2" foot placement, but the nosing then goes to 1-3/4". Code on nosing is 3/4" to 1-1/4".

Headroom is adequate this way...... although I always try to get a full seven feet. (not always possible)

The stringers shown are also 2 x 12. And you have 5-11/16" of solid, unnotched, strength still left in these stringers.

The angle is 38.7 degrees. This set of stairs is probably going to be out of code most anywhere.... but just barely.

I've included the SKP file for you if you have SketchUp.
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Stairology-stair-question-1-31-2012-f.jpg   Stairology-stair-question-1-31-2012-g.jpg  
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File Type: skp Stair Question 1-31-2012-F.skp (91.8 KB, 30 views)
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:13 PM   #27
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something like this? height for this application was approx 98" and the run was 124ish if i rmbr right...something to consider?
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:25 PM   #28
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Juji1943 has the solution that will work. Being code compliant is not what you need here.

Notme76,
I always hate it when I'm called to look at a job like the pics- how do you put a skirt on that?

Last edited by Keith Mathewson; 01-31-2012 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:22 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mathewson View Post
Juji1943 has the solution that will work.
Being code compliant is not what you need here.
This is the area at the top of the stairs...
at the bottom will be a 'vestibule' of sorts with (2) doors to (2) areas.
No room anywhere for a turn at either level; barely room to steal the extra 20".
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Last edited by TarheelTerp; 01-31-2012 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:16 AM   #30
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It appears you have more than ample room to move that stair door wall rearward, toward the glass door, and have space to build perfect stairs. Providing there are no surprises beneath. You can go, what?... Thirty inches?

That whole area where you are standing is just wasted anyway since both doors open into it.

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