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Old 04-19-2012, 02:18 PM   #1
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Soffit Installation question


I have 24" overhang with plywood soffit. Going to install vinyl or aluminum under it. It has an 3" or so continuous vent next to the fascia. The fascia board hangs down 3/4" to and 1" past the plywood. Wondering if I should install 1 x 3's first or if I can fasten directly to plywood. Thinking of using a 3/4" Invisivent soffit and wide fascia cover. Thanks in advance

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Old 04-19-2012, 04:40 PM   #2
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Soffit Installation question


I don't know anything about Invisivent soffit. Is it installed like regular soffit--fastened along the edge to the ledger strip(s) and/or the bottom of the sub-fascia board?

I would remove the existing soffit. You want to make it as easy as possible for the air to flow into the attic. Making it go through one soffit then another is likely to piss it off ;-)

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Old 04-19-2012, 05:27 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. The invisi-vent is installed the same way. It just has the vent holes in the grooves of the soffit instead of the face. It is supposed to be the best ventilating product that Certainteed offers.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:29 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply. The invisi-vent is installed the same way. It just has the vent holes in the grooves of the soffit instead of the face. It is supposed to be the best ventilating product that Certainteed offers.
Great. Removing the existing soffit is your best bet, then. Just do it with care so as to not damage the ledger strips and/or sub-fascia board.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:57 PM   #5
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Soffit Installation question


I'd stop the new material short of the existing (optimum) continuous venting. Vents with holes tend to clog. Venting should be in the positive wind pressure area near the fascia board, not the house (more turbulence). Anytime air has to move up, then down, then up again restricts the airflow to the attic. The vents do look nice though....

Scroll down a few to "Soffit vents": http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8a...0vents&f=false

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Old 04-21-2012, 07:36 AM   #6
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Soffit Installation question


I ran into the same condition when installing new soffits and siding on my house a few years ago. I pulled down all the existing soffits just to be on the safe side - it really isn't that much more work. As far as the fascia board hanging over by the 3/4-1", I snapped a line on the fascia and cut the protrusion off to flush everything out. It made it easier for me to cover with metal fascia and not have any exposed wood.
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:55 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
I'd stop the new material short of the existing (optimum) continuous venting. Vents with holes tend to clog. Venting should be in the positive wind pressure area near the fascia board, not the house (more turbulence). Anytime air has to move up, then down, then up again restricts the airflow to the attic. The vents do look nice though....

Scroll down a few to "Soffit vents": http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8a...0vents&f=false

Gary
invisivent uses slots on the sides of the groove that are hidden very well and are much better handleing intake then even fully vented or ''perf'' type
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:57 PM   #8
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Soffit Installation question


Right, thanks, Tom! I was confusing it with another one. Optimum performance is out near the fascia. I wish someone would do a test on them. Speaking of tests;you'd think air would just shoot right up the roof sheathing evacuating the whole attic airspace with proper intake/exhaust venting and insulation, not so- convective loops form above the insulation- we need the wind to help move things along: Fig.7--"h"; http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/vi...ventilation%22

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Old 04-21-2012, 07:46 PM   #9
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or venturi effect

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