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Ferkla 07-24-2006 07:32 PM

shower wall-please I need advice
I'm remodeling my bathroom.I have some experience working with tile before.I'm trying to put new walls before the new tile ( I want to put hardibacker1/2" moisture protection), but I found out that one of the shower's wall was built in plaster over cinder blocks.
What I'm trying to do is nail some furring strips(5/8) on the cinder block in order to install the hardi backer on it.
My concern is : Are the furring strips enough support to hold the new wall plus the new tile... besides the cinder blocks are holed inside?
I really appreciate any suggestion. Thanks.

redline 07-25-2006 06:27 AM

Do you have wood framing members on the sides of this wall?

Ferkla 07-25-2006 10:09 AM

Yes, there is wood framing on both sides of the wall.(here is the picture)
thanks for your help.:)

J187 07-25-2006 11:56 AM

Broken link

Ferkla 07-25-2006 02:51 PM

1 Attachment(s)
ok I think I have the picture this time. sorry! (attach)

redline 07-25-2006 03:00 PM

I was going to suggest to run same thicker wood strips from one side of the wall to the other rather then up and down the wall. They would have to be spaced closer together for added support. That way you would be able to attach the furring strips to the wood side walls. This may not be possible with your situation.

If the cinder blocks are solid why not seal them and then glue and nail the hardibacker directly to the cinder block?

May want to place a vapor barrier between the hardibacker and the cinder blocks.

Did this wall have tiles before?

Ferkla 07-25-2006 03:29 PM

The cinder blocks had tile before. I just removed the old tile because it was wet behind it. Water went wall down to the basement. I made enough room in the plaster to put the furring strips. I didn’t want to remove the whole plaster that remains on the wall. I’m afraid that the furring can’t support the weight of the hardibacker and tile. Am I crazy?

AtlanticWBConst. 07-26-2006 05:50 AM

It can support the weight, however, what you need to do is:

1.) Remove what wood 'strapping' you have installed thus far.

2.) Install MORE wood strapping at about every 10" to 12" (or less) - instead of the spaces that you have now.

3.) Also, when attaching the strapping, use a liquid construction adhesive in addition to your normal fasteners. Run the adhesive down the whole length of the back of the wood when attaching it.

4.) If you feel that your fasteners aren't holding fast into the cinder blocks, Try using concrete anchor type screws with the "expanding collars" or with the metal expanding anchors. (these whould go into pre-drilled holes in the blocks) To do this: Measure out and mark the cinderblock wall in 12" increments (where the strapping will go) on a straight diagonal line that matches the center width of the diagonally laid strapping. Pre-drill at those points.
Mark the strapping to match those cinder block marks. Next, using a paddle drill bit, counter sinking at a slight depth for a washer. (This washer will grip the strapping and help pull it into the block)
Last, pre-drill your strapping to match the blocks marks with the holes matching the size of the concrete fastener 'screws'. (those screws will be going through the washer and the strapping, and into the block holes with the collars or anchors in them)

- When installing your hardi board make sure that you use the laminated screws and place them at the appropriate spacing.

Ferkla 07-26-2006 12:39 PM

Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it. Iím going to follow your instructions. I feel confident that it will work.
Ferkla-:thumbsup: :thumbup:

Ferkla 09-14-2006 10:07 PM

notched trowel
Hi all,
I'm still working in my bathroom.It's going slow but I hope to finish it soon. I am going to install tile in the walls 8x10 inches.On hardibacker sheets with modified thinset Versabond(white). Can someone tell me what size of trowel I have to use. 1/4x1/4x1/4 square-notch or 1/4x3/8x1/4. also what size of spacers will work better.
Thanks very much. I am really happy to participate in this wonderful chatroom.

AtlanticWBConst. 09-15-2006 07:35 AM


Thanks for the update. Happy to hear everything is going well!

J187 09-15-2006 07:53 AM

1/4 x 1/4 would be right for 8" wall tile. As far as spacers go, its totally personal preference. I prefer different spacing based on factors such as tile size, tile layout, etc right down to the other colors and tiles in the room, the floor, and EVEN grout color, etc.

Ferkla 09-16-2006 10:12 PM

Thank you guys!:thumbsup:

Ferkla 10-24-2006 03:13 PM

I finished my bathroom two weeks ago. Now, I want to put a ceiling exhaust fan in this bathroom. Iím planning to install the fan with 5 feet of metal duct (4inch Diameter)
There is a perfect spot in the attic to put the new fan with duct running straight horizontal to outside of the attic. But I have a problem; just in front the bathroom there is a vented soffit and it looks like that is the only way to vent the exhaust duct. Will I have any problem if I left the duct end into this soffit? I Ďm concerned about steam going back to the attic. But I donít want to touch the roof to make a hole. Help please

R&D Tile 10-24-2006 04:14 PM

I've done this, but not a great idea, there should be a screen over the attic vent, yes?, if so, when just placing the end of the duct against it causes this area to clog with dust, you will have to go up there and clean it every so often.:)

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