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Old 08-12-2012, 03:35 PM   #1
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Installing a shower around existing tub.
I have the blue Sheetrock up, then my durock..do I need to "mud" the joints in the durock before I start the tiling?
Also, when I start my tiling, do I use mastic or thinnest?
The smooth side is out on the durock.

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Old 08-12-2012, 04:13 PM   #2
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Are you saying that you put the Durock over the blue drywall? If so, this is not correct. The Durock should be installed direct to the studs, no drywall in between. I suppose it could be left there, but I would worry about moisture degrading the drywall or causing mold to grow. In this application, I would put the Durock with the rough side facing out since you will be using thinset mortar and not mastic. Mastic should not be used in a shower because the water can get into the mastic and soften it causing the tiles to fall. I also believe the mastic can grow mold, not sure on that though. Either way, Thinset mortar is the proper thing for this application. The joints of the Durock should be taped and "mudded" with thinset mortar. There is special mesh tape for this, not drywall tape. I would also recommend waterproofing the Durock before the tile with a product like Redguard.

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Old 08-12-2012, 04:51 PM   #3
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As painful as this sounds sparky is right. You will have to rip down your durock and drywall and reinstall the durock. You wouldn't be the first to do something like this. I did something similar because my tub lip was about a 1/4 in from my framing. If you have a similar case you may want to run strips up the framing to equal out to your tub lip. Also get the right kind of tape for cement board. Its a mesh tape sold in all the big box stores. Mix some thinset and trowel it over the tape. I usually like to wipe down my cement board before I apply any thinset. Gets any loose dust and adds to the adhesion IMO. During hot days I also spray down my cement board with a spray bottle just a little to slow how fast the cement board will suck the moisture out of your thinset.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:57 PM   #4
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So there's no way I can leave both the green board and durock on??
I need the durock on to create a lip for the bullnose edge pieces to wrap around. I can't do this without it on there.
Also, I've been told mastic is ok...ugh!!
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:46 PM   #5
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As i recommended in my earlier post, if you use a waterproofing product like redguard over your durock prior to tiling, you would be creating a waterproof barrier, so, the drywall behind would in theory be protected from any water. I would not recommend leaving it there, but if you are dead set on it, i would certainly not skip the reguard step. I would recommend using it either way too though. As for the bullnose tile, if you need the lip, you have what is a corner/shelf edge tile, not a normal bullnose. You can get normal bullnose tiles that have a factory rounded edge, but are still flat on the back. That is what would commonly be used to terminate your tile on a flat wall. As for the mastic, it is certainly a no go. Whoever told you it ia ok to use is incorrect. As i stated earlier, it has the potential to absorb the water and soften up again. The mastic goes through a drying process, but a thinset mortar is a curing process. The mastic is just dried by evaporation and therefore can take the water back on. The thinset is a chemical 'drying' process that does not allow it to take the water back on. Thinset is not a hard product to work with, you should not be frustrated by having to use it instead of the mastic. It may take a bit before you get a consistancy that works well, but it is not difficult. I hope this helps explain things a little better. I am happy to help with the process in any way i can.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:51 PM   #6
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If you need to space it out You use spacers not sheets of sheetock.
Double up lattis will give you 1/2", baseboard ripped in strips ripped 2 X 4's will also work.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndyRR View Post
As i recommended in my earlier post, if you use a waterproofing product like redguard over your durock prior to tiling, you would be creating a waterproof barrier, so, the drywall behind would in theory be protected from any water. I would not recommend leaving it there, but if you are dead set on it, i would certainly not skip the reguard step. I would recommend using it either way too though. As for the bullnose tile, if you need the lip, you have what is a corner/shelf edge tile, not a normal bullnose. You can get normal bullnose tiles that have a factory rounded edge, but are still flat on the back. That is what would commonly be used to terminate your tile on a flat wall. As for the mastic, it is certainly a no go. Whoever told you it ia ok to use is incorrect. As i stated earlier, it has the potential to absorb the water and soften up again. The mastic goes through a drying process, but a thinset mortar is a curing process. The mastic is just dried by evaporation and therefore can take the water back on. The thinset is a chemical 'drying' process that does not allow it to take the water back on. Thinset is not a hard product to work with, you should not be frustrated by having to use it instead of the mastic. It may take a bit before you get a consistancy that works well, but it is not difficult. I hope this helps explain things a little better. I am happy to help with the process in any way i can.
If the drywall is the blue type, then water getting to it, shouldn't be a problem, right?
I can understand if it was regular Sheetrock, but not this blue stuff.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
If you need to space it out You use spacers not sheets of sheetock.
Double up lattis will give you 1/2", baseboard ripped in strips ripped 2 X 4's will also work.
Joe,
Why does it matter if it's Sheetrock or wood ripped down?
I'm not being a smarta**, just trying to understand is all.
Is there a reason why the blue rock is not good enough ?
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:48 AM   #9
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Can someone please post a link to a picture of the edge tile referenced above used for flat walls so that I don't need to use a spacer of any sort? I'm a bit frustrated, but willing to learn.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #10
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Bullnose is flat:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UCqD66CBV8E

Perhaps what you have is something like this - meant to go over a corner or edge:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UCqDwKCBV8E
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:15 PM   #11
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Even the blue drywall is not designed to get wet. It is just more moisture tolerant than normal drywall. It is designed to help prevent mold growth, not be truly water resistent. Being wet will still degrade it and it can still get moldy.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blondesense
Bullnose is flat:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UCqD66CBV8E

Perhaps what you have is something like this - meant to go over a corner or edge:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UCqDwKCBV8E
My durock on the blue rock is creating a lip that would cause me to need to use the 2nd type pictured.
I've asked too many local guys who have said don't take the blue rock down, no need to.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndyRR
Even the blue drywall is not designed to get wet. It is just more moisture tolerant than normal drywall. It is designed to help prevent mold growth, not be truly water resistent. Being wet will still degrade it and it can still get moldy.
I have durock over the blue rock. Not planning on getting blue rock wet.
It's too much hassle to remove durock, remove blue rock, then reinstall durock back when I've been told by other guys who do showers and tile for a living that it's okay to leave it.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:32 PM   #14
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You obviously have your mind made up about leaving the drywall behind the durock, so I am not sure at this point why you even asked about it. As far as not getting the drywall wet, that is why i suggested the redguard or the like. Without using that, your drywall could be subjected to water. The tile and durock alone are not a fully waterproof system. As far as the people you talked to who do it for a living, if they want to risk their work and reputation on it, let them, but I am a remodeler who does a fair amount of tile work and showers and I would not be willing to risk my professional reputation on leaving it there. Take from that what you want.
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndyRR
You obviously have your mind made up about leaving the drywall behind the durock, so I am not sure at this point why you even asked about it. As far as not getting the drywall wet, that is why i suggested the redguard or the like. Without using that, your drywall could be subjected to water. The tile and durock alone are not a fully waterproof system. As far as the people you talked to who do it for a living, if they want to risk their work and reputation on it, let them, but I am a remodeler who does a fair amount of tile work and showers and I would not be willing to risk my professional reputation on leaving it there. Take from that what you want.
Actually, I asked about mudding the durock in the OP.
You are the one who brought up the durock over the blue rock and when you did, I went with the conversation to gain more knowledge on the subject as a whole.
Bring up any electrical, and I'll "risk" my reputation on my advice, too.
If the local guys said " pull the blue rock down and only use the durock", then I'd give this option a lot more leverage.
But since you (and I) are both DIYers when it comes to this field and we both are not professionals, I tend to lean toward what a local professional might tell me.
While I respect everyone's opinion, I feel like I should take all advice and make my own decision.
Since it won't hurt to have the blue rock there, there's no rational reason to uninstall it.

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