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-   -   shed remodel (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/shed-remodel-162259/)

redman88 11-05-2012 11:06 AM

shed remodel
 
okay starting to get info on fixing up my shed, its 24x14 foot. going to close off the back 8 foot, the side in the picture.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...2/100_0354.jpg
what i am tring to figure out is the best way to dry wall the interior of the shed when i move the walls.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...2/100_0352.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...2/100_0353.jpg
some pictures of the roof from the inside

hand drive 11-05-2012 10:48 PM

you'll need 14' ceiling joists wall plate to wall plate that connect to the counter-opposing rafters at either side of the room and that also double up at both ends where the rafters change direction from the hip roof, and then use joist hangers off of the double joist to do the end joists..

redman88 11-06-2012 04:55 PM

Ok should I use 1/4 or 5/8 sheet rock for the storage side of the shed. 5/8 will be going into the hobby shop side. And what would be the best way to insulate to shop side

joecaption 11-06-2012 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redman88 (Post 1046134)
Ok should I use 1/4 or 5/8 sheet rock for the storage side of the shed. 5/8 will be going into the hobby shop side. And what would be the best way to insulate to shop side

1/4 is never used for walls or ceilings when there's nothing behind it but studs.
You could just lean on it and break it.
Only time 5/8 is normaly used on walls is when the building is attached to the house to meet fire codes.
For the ceiling 5/8 or light weight 1/2 will work. For the walls you only need 1/2"
If you can borrow a drywall lift to do the ceilings, do it. Makes it 100 times easyer.
Make sure there's 2 X 4 nailers in all inside corners to attach the sheetrock to.
When ever possible use 12' long drywall. Less seams to finish.
Use 1-1/4 course screws not nails.
Do the ceiling first,
When doing the walls install them horizontal and start at the top tight to the ceiling.
When installing the bottom piece make sure it ends up 1/2" up off the floor.

mae-ling 11-06-2012 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1046225)
1
When installing the bottom piece make sure it ends up 1/2 up off the floor.

That is 1/2inch - just clarifying if it wasn't clear.

joecaption 11-06-2012 08:03 PM

Thanks I can see how that might be misread.

redman88 11-06-2012 10:11 PM

didn't miss read it. seeing as i knew to expect the 1/2nch. ceiling hight will be just under 7'6", might be cheaper and quicker for me to find a friend to help lift the pices. looks like if i use 12 foot lenghts it will just take 7. And anothr 14 for the walls, though lots of cutting.

redman88 11-07-2012 09:27 AM

Would it be with it to reroof with metal? Doesn't look like it leaks but most of the lava rock is missing of the roof. My wife's uncle is the distric manager for a metal building supplier and scrap yard. So I am able to get the material cheap

redman88 03-22-2013 03:12 PM

okay i am pulling this thread from the grave, signed the papers for the house yesterday so i can now start work.....

so i would like some ideas for layout of my new work shop. mostly small electronics and wood working.

here is a pic of the curent lay out.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...psb8447474.jpg

the long window along the back wall will be removed and a through wall ac will be put in in that area.

the wall in the north west corner will be removed as well. so other then that i have no clear plans.

hand drive 03-23-2013 09:04 AM

can you post more pics of the ceiling/roof structure inside the building from a distance away to show more of the big pic

redman88 03-23-2013 09:39 AM

Can do thanks for the help

redman88 03-23-2013 09:02 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Okay pic may not be the best. But I have been thinking about this and I was wondering if I can just remove the 2x4's that are going from top plate to top plate the 14 length since the are spaced about 3 foot apart and just sister the joists and add a cross brace a foot from the crown/peak not sure on the correct term. Like the cut section of ply wood already there

GBrackins 03-24-2013 09:01 AM

if you are talking about 2x4 as shown in the middle photo then those are rafter ties. the purpose is to keep the tops of the load bearing walls from being pushed out by rafter trust. a typical roof would be required to have either rafter ties (ceiling joists are a type of rafter tie) or have a structural ridge beam. Rafter ties are typically found in the lower 1/3 of the distance from the top of the wall to the ridge.

Collar ties are typically located in the upper 1/3 of the distance from the top of the wall to the ridge. Their purpose is to resist uplift at the ridge, they will not prevent rafter thrust.

I would not remove these rafter ties. Hope this helps!

Good luck! :thumbsup:

hand drive 03-24-2013 09:07 AM

As GBrackins mentions, do not remove the 14' ties. in fact I'd recommend using those as the base pattern to add more of them all the way across and use that as your flat ceiling, except plan to use 2x6 for that 14' distance. if you establish where and how to make the ceiling the walls below are easily figured out later...


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