Rough Door And Window Openings - Remodeling - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-10-2010, 11:33 AM   #1
Newly Retired
 
tuchodi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cariboo BC Canada
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


I am doing some reno's and will be installing new doors and windows where there have never been any before. What is the optimum rough opening both width and height that one should leave to allow for the best mounting and insulating. They will be installed on outside walls and also a couple of new inside doors.

Advertisement

tuchodi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2010, 01:32 PM   #2
Remodeling Contractor
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 3,590
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


windows 1" wider than window and 1/2" Higher. Be sure the jack studs holding the new header is perfectly level. Be sure the sill is perfectly level. Be sure openings are square.

For doors add 1 1/2" in width and 1" in height.

Advertisement

Bob Mariani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2010, 03:28 PM   #3
Member
 
jlhaslip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Canadian Rockies
Posts: 1,280
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Bob,
In the north here, window rough openings are made about 1 inch wider and taller than the actual window frame to allow for sufficient foam/insulation to be installed. On install, set the window margins tpo b e balanced. Often a 3/8 shim set is cut for the bottom to ensure a space for enough insulation.
Doors are 2 inches wider and 2 inches taller than the door slab size for interior doors. Exteriors are 'usually' the same, depending on the manufacturer. Some thresholds need a taller opening.
When in doubt, make them bigger. It is easier to fill in rather than increase a rough opening.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Go ahead and apply for a variance, those guys at City Hall can use a good laugh.
jlhaslip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2010, 03:35 PM   #4
Newly Retired
 
tuchodi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cariboo BC Canada
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Thanks for the info. I am in a colder climate so I will make sure I have enough space for insulation. I am looking at some Vinyl widows and they recommend very little space. If I go with Vinyl should I still use the 1" space for widows that you speak of so I can insulate?
tuchodi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2010, 03:58 PM   #5
Remodeling Contractor
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 3,590
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


yes installation is the same. The window should sit on the bottom sill. I install a tapered sill then a sill pan then flashing or waterproof membrane that contains a weeping ability. Windows should not have foam or caulk on the bottom. This way any water that does work it's way into the window area will weep out safely and not sit in the wall rotting out the framing. I also disagree with bigger is better. Making it the correct size, level and square is better. Make it too big and the holes for your nailing flange will have no wood to grab onto.
Bob Mariani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2010, 04:12 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,999
Rewards Points: 2,064
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Check with the manufacturer or the supplier. Wood windows are special sizes and stock odd measurements, vinyl are net the size of the window call-out and 1/2" smaller than call-out. Box stores sell glass doors to fit older openings, under the call-out size to fit. Remember to allow 1/2" space for shim at exterior doors with hardwood floor inside (so the sweep will clear a throw rug or tile). May not pertain but good points.
"When in doubt, make them bigger. It is easier to fill in rather than increase a rough opening." ----- good point if unsure.

be safe, Gary
__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2010, 09:35 PM   #7
remodeling pro
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,399
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Mariani View Post

For doors add 1 1/2" in width and 1" in height.
These dimensions will make trim guys curse you for sure.
This gives you zero space on width...30"slab plus two 3/4"jambs=31
1/2" ; the 1 1/2" is gone, leaving no wiggle room for framing deviations.
Height..80" slab, typically set 1" above bottom of jamb from mill shop,plus 3/4" head jamb, plus 3/8" extension above head jamb rabbit, won't fit 1" over slab size opening.

I go 2 1/2" on width and height. Additional 3/4" if there is full thickness hardwood floor. I'd much rather shim jambs than cut out trimmer studs and rip to gain space.
troubleseeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2010, 09:54 AM   #8
Newly Retired
 
tuchodi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cariboo BC Canada
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Quote:
Originally Posted by troubleseeker View Post
These dimensions will make trim guys curse you for sure.
Good point about the trim I had not thought of that.
Thanks
tuchodi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 04:40 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 33
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Sort of an industry standard...

Exterior Doors = = 2" on width & 2 5/8" extra on height from callout
Interior Doors ---- 2" extra width, 2 5/8" extra height
Sliding Doors ----- Actual callout on width, 5/8" extra height
Pocket and bypass -- Actual width, 2 5/8" extra height

Vinyl windows ---- 1" extra width, 1/2" extra height

These dimensions give you the ability to make adjustments for out of square/level/plumb framing. The door openings allow for adjustment for any type of flooring.
Cache is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 04:46 PM   #10
Newly Retired
 
tuchodi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cariboo BC Canada
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cache View Post
Sort of an industry standard...

Exterior Doors = = 2" on width & 2 5/8" extra on height from callout
Interior Doors ---- 2" extra width, 2 5/8" extra height
Sliding Doors ----- Actual callout on width, 5/8" extra height
Pocket and bypass -- Actual width, 2 5/8" extra height

Vinyl windows ---- 1" extra width, 1/2" extra height

These dimensions give you the ability to make adjustments for out of square/level/plumb framing. The door openings allow for adjustment for any type of flooring.

Thanks for the dimensions. I will write that in my trusty know it all book.
tuchodi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 10:07 PM   #11
remodeling pro
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,399
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cache View Post
Sort of an industry standard...

Pocket and bypass -- Actual width, 2 5/8" extra height
Pocket door RO is actually TWICE the door width(passage plus pocket), plus 3/4"(for finish jamb),although I usually give myself an inch and shim to suit.

I have not installed any bypass in years, so don't know about the 2 5/8" for them, but modern pocket door hardware calls for 4" additional height for the track and trolly assembly.

For a DIY pocket door, I strongly suggest purchasing the hardware kit before framing (Johnson is good kit and readily available), and understanding the directions. This a lot easier than having to modify framing later.

Last edited by troubleseeker; 04-12-2010 at 10:13 PM.
troubleseeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2010, 09:38 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 33
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


Quote:
Originally Posted by troubleseeker View Post
Pocket door RO is actually TWICE the door width(passage plus pocket), plus 3/4"(for finish jamb),although I usually give myself an inch and shim to suit.

I have not installed any bypass in years, so don't know about the 2 5/8" for them, but modern pocket door hardware calls for 4" additional height for the track and trolly assembly.

For a DIY pocket door, I strongly suggest purchasing the hardware kit before framing (Johnson is good kit and readily available), and understanding the directions. This a lot easier than having to modify framing later.
I was referring to the prehung pocket doors, not buying a install kit and DIY. IOW, when I say actual width, that includes the frame portion of the door. If building my own doors the rules are a bit different for me.
Cache is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2010, 11:53 PM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,727
Rewards Points: 1,274
Default

Rough Door and Window Openings


GBR has the right answer. The RO you want is what the specific manufacturer says. All those rules of thumb will eventually get you in a jamb (pun intended).

Advertisement

jogr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts