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Mark79 01-22-2012 10:50 AM

Replacing Sheetrock Window Trim with Wood - NEWB Alert - Please Help!
 
OK, so please keep in mind this will be my first DIY project indoors (i usually stick to the outdoor stuff). I plan to replace all of the sheetrock window jamb extensions with wood and then trimming out the window with casing. I believe I have the necessary tools (Air Compressor, 16ga Finish Nailer, Compound Miter Saw). I just need some basic help to get going and anticipate what all this might entail. I already anticipate having to redo the sill because I don't think it will be wide enough after I add my casing. I'm sorry if there are many other threads on the subject but none seem to address removing the old sheetrock from a newbie basis which is what I need. So here are some questions I'm thinking about:

-Do I just take a hammer to the sheetrock window extensions and punch a hole and then pull off the remaining sheetrock? What is likely to be behind the sheetrock?

-Do the Sheetrock extensions typically project all the way out to flush with the main wall or does the main wall sheetrock extend all the way and then there is a shorter extension piece. (basically where do these pieces typically come together - in the extension or on the main wall)?

-Also, the width of the extensions is a little less than 4" so will I have to rip the new wood extensions out of 1x4? I don't have a table saw or circular saw so I'm wondering the best way to accomplish this.

-Also the thickness of the drywall vs the thickness of the new wood extension jambs (do they need to match)?

Can someone give me a basic step by step of how to tackle this?

Picture:
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...9/e13f16a6.jpg

ratherbefishing 01-22-2012 05:55 PM

I don't know the answers to all your questions, but I'll take a stab at a few.
I'd expect the rough opening to be behind the sheetrock. I think I'd drive a finish nail in there first, to check. 2x6 walls?
If the existing jamb extensions are 'a little less than 4"', you'll have to rip 1x6, as 1x4s are only 3/4 x 3 1/2.
The sheetrock is probably 1/2 thick, so if you use 1x stock for the jambs, the reveal at the frame will change.
It looks like the window in the pic is kinda close to a corner. Casing width may be a challenge.

jasonreck71 01-22-2012 06:15 PM

I would also bet good money you have metal corner bead on there, so just be aware that you will most likely be tearing that out also...But ratherbefishing hot the highlights the way I would have

jasonreck71 01-22-2012 06:16 PM

Oh yeah and I am sure you thought about this but how will the wood vs sheetrock effect your blinds fitting in the window

mae-ling 01-22-2012 06:16 PM

Why replace the sheetrock? just put your trim over it. Unless it is in bad shape.

Mark79 01-22-2012 10:51 PM

Thanks for the answers so far. I thought I'd have to replace the sheetrock because there is only 1/4" of the window frame reveal left so I would not have room to add more material on top of the sheetrock. This window (and 2 others) are in a breakfast nook/bay window type area and they shortest distance from the sheetrock edge to the corner is about 3.5" so I think I'd probably have to stick to 3" casing at the very max but probably less. The other windows are a lot more wide open and I will not have the same limitations but I guess they should all match. I didn't even think about the blinds, but I think there is still enough room even if I add 1/4" to each side. Is there material for the jambs that is not as thick as 3/4" but maybe 1/2" like the sheetrock I would be removing?

12penny 01-23-2012 06:09 AM

hey mark...I'd just add casing around the opening and paint it all white. Once painted you wont be able to tell if thats drywall or pine.

May take a little finagiling because drywall corners have a steel bead and an abundance of joint compound.

mae-ling 01-24-2012 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12penny (Post 831870)
hey mark...I'd just add casing around the opening and paint it all white. Once painted you wont be able to tell if thats drywall or pine.

May take a little finagiling because drywall corners have a steel bead and an abundance of joint compound.

Yeah that's what I meant. You just said it way better:thumbup:

If you remove the sheetrock (I wouldn't) you could go with a 1/2" plywood, use iron on edging if you are staining, or just Spackle the edge if you are painting.


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