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dharp 11-25-2007 06:54 PM

replacing outside wall w/2garage doorsin basement garage
 
we are remodeling a 27yr old a-frame,2000sq ft. half slab and half basement garage. the east and west walls are poured concrete allthe way to the ceiling/floor joists of the living room above the basement garage. the exterior wall facing north contains two single garage doors. this entire wall from sill plate to ceiling joists must be replaced due to rotting and disintergrated seal plate. first, we must build a sub wall 3/4 ft in to support everything while we rebuild the ext wall. we plan to use ellis screw jacks for. support. open to all suggestions as to the best way to approach this. seal plates go to garage floor as the footer is 18to 20 inches out past the house. also need to address water problems that created this problem in the first place. also need to explore application of spray foam insulation in the garage ceiling joists,replacingold fiberglass and adding foam to the new outside wall which will be covered w/ hardyboard on the exterior. questions concern open cell vs closed cell app.

Ron6519 11-26-2007 11:50 AM

The sill plates should be pressure treated wood, isolated from the concrete, especially if you have water issues in the area. Are you saying the garage projects out past the house 18-20"? This wouldn't change the sill construction. What's the issue with the projection?
It would help if you could post pictures concerning the water issue. General answers don't help specific problems all that well.
Ron

dharp 11-26-2007 12:26 PM

water issues in garage redo
 
thanx ron6519 for your reply. the garage wall to be replaced doesnt project out from the house. the footer was poured 18-20in. from the wall out into the driveway. then the driveway was poured too high. well be tearing out the driveway and dropping it down w/ correct slope. the problem happened when previous owner thought that by pouring a cap from the sill plate out to the footer w/ a slope. he buried the seal plate below grade when he poured the cap. the cap has since been removed, leaving the garage floor level out 18 to 20 in. to the driveway. between that great piece of work and no flashing between the house and the deck above the driveway[also removed], we believe we found all the sources for the seal plate rot.

dharp 11-26-2007 02:44 PM

sill plate
 
:laughing: ron6519: thanx for the correction. a little explanation is needed. my wife is an engineer by education and a finnish carpenter/home builder/supervisor by trade. i spent 31yrs in the auto industry. when she tries to explain something to me in her texas drawl, sill can become "seal". its my fault, she says for being a "Yankee". allthough she has good knowledge and experience in new home construction, this is a fairly big deal for a couple of old retired folks. im using this forum to both educate my self, and to better understand what lies ahead of us....dharp

concretemasonry 11-26-2007 05:58 PM

Whatever you do, do not put the sill plates on the garage floor.

Use at least 1 course of 6" or 8" wide block to get the sill up and away from the moisture. It also makes it much easier to clean the garage.

Around here, even with a slab on grade garage, the course of block is used. We have snow and get a lot of salt/sand/slop that melts off the car and makes a mess of everything, so everyone wants to be able to wash out the garage and not worry about wood rotting.

GearHd6 11-27-2007 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by concretemasonry (Post 76432)
Whatever you do, do not put the sill plates on the garage floor.

Use at least 1 course of 6" or 8" wide block to get the sill up and away from the moisture. It also makes it much easier to clean the garage.

Around here, even with a slab on grade garage, the course of block is used. We have snow and get a lot of salt/sand/slop that melts off the car and makes a mess of everything, so everyone wants to be able to wash out the garage and not worry about wood rotting.


Great Tip!!


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