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bluefitness 11-02-2008 07:57 PM

Replacing header over sliding glass doors
 
I'm trying to debate whether to tackle this job on my own.

I'm looking for ideas on where and how to build the temporary wall and replace the header.


I'm just looking for a ball park figure on the labor to replace a header, build a temp wall, and replace a couple of load bearing studs. The bottom top plate is also damaged and needs to be replaced. All of the work will be performed in the same section the temp wall will hold up. It is a sliding glass door with three panels. I will do all of the rest of the work (drywall, siding, etc.).

Is this a dangerous job for a diyer to attempt?




http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/DSC00351.jpg

super carpenter Rob 11-02-2008 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluefitness (Post 180001)
I'm trying to debate whether to tackle this job on my own.

-I'm not sure if we are allowed to talk about prices on this board. If not, please disregard this question. I'm just looking for a ball park figure on the labor to replace a header, build a temp wall, and replace a couple of load bearing studs. The bottom top plate is also damaged and needs to be replaced. All of the work will be performed in the same section the temp wall will hold up. It is a sliding glass door with three panels. I will do all of the rest of the work (drywall, siding, etc.).

Is this a dangerous job for a diyer to attempt?

Hi it's not that hard. I have a question is this on a bearing wall? if it is you will need to build a wall to take the weight off of the header. the wall will have to be a little higher than the wall with the header jack up just a bit. you have to make sure that your wall is crossing the floor joist double plate the bottom and top plates,I try to place the studs under the joist but double plating will be ok if you can't get them under the joist don't rush watch everything as you are jacking have the top and bottom plate in place and your studs cut.you can stack the plates on top of each other and measure from floor to cieling cut you studs 1/2" long it may be enough,when you get into it you may find some of the studs need to be replaced read this and get back with more questions and pictures if you can regards Rob

bluefitness 11-03-2008 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by super carpenter Rob (Post 180053)
Hi it's not that hard. I have a question is this on a bearing wall? if it is you will need to build a wall to take the weight off of the header. the wall will have to be a little higher than the wall with the header jack up just a bit. you have to make sure that your wall is crossing the floor joist double plate the bottom and top plates,I try to place the studs under the joist but double plating will be ok if you can't get them under the joist don't rush watch everything as you are jacking have the top and bottom plate in place and your studs cut.you can stack the plates on top of each other and measure from floor to cieling cut you studs 1/2" long it may be enough,when you get into it you may find some of the studs need to be replaced read this and get back with more questions and pictures if you can regards Rob

Thanks for the reply. Yes it is a load bearing wall. It is the exterior wall of a cathedral ceiling. The sliding glass door leads to a poured concrete patio. I was thinking about building the temporary wall on this. How much higher should I build the temporary wall? Should it push up on the trusses a half inch? The home has a slab foundation. I was going to remove the header from the inside and build the wall on the outside.

super carpenter Rob 11-03-2008 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluefitness (Post 180116)
Thanks for the reply. Yes it is a load bearing wall. It is the exterior wall of a cathedral ceiling. The sliding glass door leads to a poured concrete patio. I was thinking about building the temporary wall on this. How much higher should I build the temporary wall? Should it push up on the trusses a half inch? The home has a slab foundation. I was going to remove the header from the inside and build the wall on the outside.

if you have a concrete floor it will easy get them up about an 1/2" should do the job. do you know why it rotted? I think water may be getting in above the door.you will need to install flashing so it doesn't happen again,what size header is in there now,I would make the same size or larger also I would put plywood between the 2x whatever it is the plywood will make it much stronger regards Rob

bluefitness 11-03-2008 09:46 PM

The trusses are 2x8 for the cathedral ceiling. They have bird mouth cuts at the top plates. I need to support this some how. I was thinking about screwing a temporary top plate and then cutting the 2x4 studs at an angle to create the temporary wall. Is this a bad idea? The problem is that the temp wall will be mounted to only the remaining 4 inches of truss (the remaining truss after the birds mount was cut.


http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/DSC00352.jpg



http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/DSC00351.jpg

bluefitness 11-03-2008 09:48 PM

I could go from the inside. I'm not sure if I need to remove the drywall to construct the temp wall though. Also, the flooring is floating laminate, which I really to not want to remove.

bluefitness 11-03-2008 09:51 PM

Termites caused the damage to the header. I already replaced the king stud and trimmers on this side.

Ron6519 11-04-2008 06:23 PM

Curious as to how you supported the structure when you pulled out the jack and king studs.
Ron

bluefitness 11-04-2008 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 180758)
Curious as to how you supported the structure when you pulled out the jack and king studs.
Ron


One of the trimmer boards was completely eaten through by termites. I cleaned it up and replaced the board. I then replaced the other stud and king stud. I put another stud next to the king stud to replace it. I also braced the header by building supports on the sides. Can you help with building the temp wall? Should I build it on the inside or outside?

I'm also debating whether I should just contract it out. It seems like it is hard to find a framer in my area. There were a couple of carpenters listed. The rest were general contractors. I'm guessing people that do this type of work only work under general contractors. If I hire a contractor, he will want a cut on top of the framers. Also, do you know what a job like this would cost?

super carpenter Rob 11-04-2008 07:54 PM

I would build the wall on the inside,that is where the bearing is the out side is just an over hang it shouldn't be that hard to do jack as lease as possible replace sit it back down just make a wall as if it were staying regards Rob

bluefitness 11-04-2008 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by super carpenter Rob (Post 180785)
I would build the wall on the inside,that is where the bearing is the out side is just an over hang it shouldn't be that hard to do jack as lease as possible replace sit it back down just make a wall as if it were staying regards Rob

If I build it on the inside. I will have drywall and laminate flooring on either end. Also, it is a cathedral ceiling, so it is coming down at an angle. I was thinking about mounting a top plate to the ceiling and cutting the studs at an angle at the top to match the angle. I would then put the temporary bottom plate on top of the laminate flooring. Does this sound correct?

super carpenter Rob 11-04-2008 09:04 PM

as long as you are sure that the wall you build is caring the load it should not be a problem regards Robert


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