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Old 03-18-2013, 02:32 AM   #1
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Repairing exterior wall


MY HOUSE-

The house was built in 1990, 2story, barn shaped, 28x36 with the second floor indented 1 foot on each side (26x36 upstairs), concrete slab, masonite siding, no pressure treated lumber. Needless to say the bottom has rotted and the siding is falling off in chunks. Broke and have to do the repair myself. I do have some experience with carpentry, remodeling and great at figuring things out.

MY PLAN-

Build a temporary 12 foot wall out of 2x4 on the inside and move it as I go along. All the siding is coming off and being repalced with metal siding. The bottom 4 feet is being replaced with pressure treated lumber (2x4's and plywood both). Starting with the bottom plate, removing the molding from the inside of the house, cut the bottom plate with the sheetrock off and replacing in 12 foot sections. After replacing the bottom plate I was going to cut each stud, one at a time, 4 foot high, and if possible cutting the sheetrock loose from the studs, I hate replacing sheetrock, place a new 4 foot piece up under the old stud, toenail together, then place a 6"scab on the side of the 2x4 to cover the cut. Sound good? Any problems with my plan?

My major concern is the two 28' walls. The floor joist run the same way as the wall so bracing along that wall from the inside doesn't do much good. There are no interior walls (except for the bathroom) and a center beam with two supports running down the middle of the house. If I build my wall in the middle of the outside wall and the center support will that hold the wall up so I can do the repair?

Appreciate any help


Also, the contractor doing the siding and roof (damn roof is rotted to) is going to be installing new windows and doors. The house currently has 3 windows downstairs and 4 upstairs. You can't see anything! He thinks my plan is do able, ( so he says anyways) so looking for some input from others.

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Last edited by kujo; 03-18-2013 at 02:33 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:59 AM   #2
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Repairing exterior wall


#1 Please go back and add your location to your profile.
Go to Quick links to edit.

Really could use some pictures on this one.

Sure sounds like some regrading and gutters would help prevent this from happening again, but no way to know without those pictures.

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:10 AM   #3
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Repairing exterior wall


Yikes!

You can't cut the studs and stack them----the house will collapse.

Remove the siding and sheeting and replace with full studs-----

Do not use treated studs--just treated for the bottom plate----Be sure to use proper fasteners---

Modern treated lumber will eat up regular nails in a year or two----
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:15 AM   #4
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Repairing exterior wall


Don't have any pictures but yes we are doing some regrading. The contractor is bringing a bulldozer down to fix that problem. When the house was built the front was poured in concrete butted up against the slab for a driveway. When it rains you can't even open the front door without getting soaked. I'm adding a ten foot porch across the front to fix that problem (28ft wall). Left side of the house might as will be a pond when it rains (36ft wall). Back side of the house the ground and the siding are level with each other (28ft wall). On the right side he built a flower bed topped with gravel, flush and in some spots overlapping the siding. (36ft wall). What I've got is masonite siding sitting in a pond and flush with the ground all the way around the house. Gutters would only be an option on the two 28ft sides but we've decided some trenching and grading are better options with the top roof extending past the side roofs. Its a mess.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:38 AM   #5
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Repairing exterior wall


Sure sounds like none of that was build to modern codes.
One of the main reasons I always suggest stem wall constrution to get the siding at least 6" above grade to keep water out and get the siding up higher.

One thing I've done many times in poorly build buildings like this is to install Z moulding or custom bent coil stock that extends out behond the slab and up at least 4" up the sheathing, 1 X 6 vinyl lumber, then another piece of Z moulding, then J moulding, and last the siding.
It gets rid or the area where the leaks come from, no caulking needed, gives you an area to add back fill to improve the grade that will not rot, and protects the siding from the weed wacker.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:05 AM   #6
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Welcome to the Forum!

oh'mike is spot on, use full length studs or you'll create a hinge.

joe, Alabama only recently got a state-wide building code. http://www.builderonline.com/codes-a...ding-code.aspx

kujo, I would recommend meeting with your local building official to find out the code requirements for your project, and whether permits and inspections are required.

Good luck!
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:56 PM   #7
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Good point about the studs, that would of been horrible. Someone had told me that was the correct way to repair them. Since replacing the whole stud I definitely don't want to buy that many PS studs. What about the plywood? Would you still replace that with pressure treated? Maybe just the bottom 2 feet?

The contractor had mentioned of doing something to the bottom of the house to stop the water, moisture and bugs but I don't remember exactly what it was but sounds something similar to what you have mentioned?
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:30 AM   #8
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Found some pics

Last edited by kujo; 03-19-2013 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:01 AM   #9
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where in bama?
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:48 AM   #10
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Not the best picture, but look at the righ hand side of the page where it says horizontal trim. There what can be done along the bottom of your wall on the sides and front.
I would install Strom And Ice shield along all of the lower wall then do waht's shown in the picture.
Only differance is the Z moulding on the bottom will not work along the end wall in your picture. Just need the vinyl lumber.
I use an ossilatiing saw to cut the outside corners shorter so the banding wraps all the way around the outside corners.
http://www.cedarsidinginc.com/instal...structions.pdf
Someones going to say to use the Z moulding where that slab is, it's not going to work for several reasons.
No slab is ever perfectly flat, there's just no way to keep that thin metal in direct contact with the slab. No amount of caulking is going to keep out the water.

I would not use pressure treated sheathing. If you did all the fastners would have to then be ACQ approved. When pressure treated plywood get wet it delaminates.

There's also a better way to do that roof where the two angles meet where now it's all cracking.
Run your shingles up the steep side all the way to the angle, keep your last row of nails as close as you can to the angle and use something like Black Jack under them to help keep them in place.
Now for the area with the lower slope you first install a row of aluminum drip cap, then run the rest of the roof as if it was a new roof with a row of starter strip first.
This way there will be no bent over shingles.

DO I see where there was no house wrap installed under that siding?
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:17 AM   #11
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Repairing exterior wall


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
DO I see where there was no house wrap installed under that siding?
joe, that kinda looks like a garage door than was in-fielded without any exterior finish doesn't it?
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:43 AM   #12
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Sure is, just concered how the rest of the wall was done.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:25 AM   #13
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Repairing exterior wall


Your right it use to be a garage door. That whole piece is about to fall down. There is no moisture barrier at all on the house. I looked up the vinyl wood at lowes, do I just use the vinyl in place of the plywood?

I hate that roof. It has buckled so many times. Its being replaced with galvalume and the guy replacing it said he repairs that style a lot as there never done rite the first time. He said he was wrapping the whole roof, the whole house in metal. No wood will be exposed anywhere. Were using colored roof metal for the siding.

How to I brace that end wall so I can replace the bottom plate? The flour joist run the save way as that wall. In the center of that wall is the support for the center beam that runs across the house (36 foot long)

What is yalls opinion on aluminum windows? I was looking at betterbilt windows at lowes 36x60
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:32 PM   #14
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Had a tornado come thru the neighborhood so had to ride down there and I got you guys some pictures of the house and of the inside beam I'm talking about.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:37 PM   #15
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More pictures. Side that holds water and back of house
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Last edited by kujo; 03-19-2013 at 09:39 PM.
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