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Old 12-28-2011, 09:49 PM   #16
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Removing walls


There was not much character in 3 decade old house and the wife wanted open concept.

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Old 12-28-2011, 10:01 PM   #17
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Nice pictures, Steve! Vary rarely do we get pictures let alone good ones.

Because you will be removing interior walls that are giving the house some shear resistance, I would add 2x4's at the truss chords, halfway up the two center ones and one at the mid-chord (4 runs). The gable end should get a 2x on the ceiling (bottom) chord to hold the gable wall below in-check against wind/seismic. This would bring your early '70-80's house (judging by the skip-sheathing- I've framed a couple of dozen or so of that same plan) up to minimal code for truss bracing: http://www.ufpi.com/product/rooftrusses/bracing.htm

http://www.xpsa.com/tech/FSC%20Braci....2%20FINAL.pdf

Use it or not: remove the wiring (label everything), studs and lower top plate. Cut the upper top plate into two foot sections, to save the toe-nails from truss above from splitting out the edge of the bottom chord there. Gently pry the sections down and cut the nails without disturbing the truss against nail-pops in drywall nearby. You may have some Simpson truss brackets or not, check carefully.....if so, you have to remove the teco nail in the truss side face first. http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...TCT-DTC_PT.asp

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Old 12-29-2011, 12:12 AM   #18
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If the walls are non bearing then what shear value would they have? NONE
Why would you have to worry about toe nails on the truss? You should never toe nail trusses you should use STC (truss clips).
If the wall has a top plate and a 1x on top of that then it is a non bearing wall without a doubt.
Around here you need to have a permit for anything unless you don't get caught.
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:15 AM   #19
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Removing walls


Yeah from what I can see looks like simple partitions, if you're not sure get another opinion from a licensed contractor.

Just to point out-I didn't see the OP anywhere mention asking "big box employees" their opinion.

I'd expect permits would be needed for everything.

Last edited by chrisBC; 12-29-2011 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abracaboom View Post
You don't need a permit or an inspection to remove partition walls like these.
Excuse me but if there is electrical in them, and walls are supposed to have outlets every x feet in just about any building codes I have encountered. Moved/removed, you need permits and inspections where I live just for the electrical changes. Thankfully. I guess although I grumble at the inescapable cost at times.

Last edited by user1007; 12-29-2011 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:09 PM   #21
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"If the walls are non bearing then what shear value would they have? NONE
Why would you have to worry about toe nails on the truss? You should never toe nail trusses you should use STC (truss clips)."----- I see the end of a soon-to-be-removed wall on a possibly gable end wall- helping to prevent it from flexing in a wind. Bracing in the attic on the gable with 2x4 diagonals to the center from the outside walls over the top of the bottom chords would help strengthen that end wall against shear- to replace the drywall and frame wall removed below. A few 2x's is worth not having to repair nail pops in the existing ceiling drywall later, to me anyhow... 33 years ago, I was toe-nailing trusses to walls then because they never had truss clips here at that time.

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Old 12-30-2011, 11:23 PM   #22
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Sorry, but I see a normal 2 point truss built in the 80's . If it was a picture of the gable then a cross brace should have been in the picture,. Stay tuned for more info.
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:03 PM   #23
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“Sorry, but I see a normal 2 point truss built in the 80's . If it was a picture of the gable then a cross brace should have been in the picture, “------------------- I agree, never said anything about 2-point truss.

It is a picture of a gable;

Pic. #1: taken from the attic access in the master bedroom closet ceiling toward the lv.rm./dine.rm. (at far end- with a gable vent) = no gable brace which is why I posted the gable bracing site.

Pic.#2: Liv.rm. over garage; front entrance of house, bedrooms/bath on right side past entry closet over stairs

Pic.#4: gable end on left side---trusses run front to back because of bedrooms

Pic.#6: gable end on right side- trusses still run front to back of house

I wasn’t saying the OP has to add truss bracing, but I recommend it because he will be removing the gable end wall below the attic. Wind/seismic would rely only on the ceiling drywall for shear flow at that level. The roof boards are weak for shear flow, plywood being much better, or boards at a 45* angle. That, plus lack of gable bracing anywhere, is why is suggest truss bracing.
I would be concerned about the lack of ventilation in the attic picture. A little 8x18 gable vent at each end isn’t going to give much for that size attic. On the other hand- if it’s working now…..

Gary
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:15 PM   #24
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I missed the part in the pic #1 being taken the way you say, I will re-read the post and maybe catch that. To me it looks like the picture was taken from an attic access but I did not see that it was in the Mst. Bedroom., and I don't know where the Mst. Bed is in the layout.

I also did not see the picture of the gable end bracing, it looked a little dark at that end of the attic in the picture, but you can tell what size the gable vent is so my eyes are bad. I also can not tell what boards or nailing was used on the roof and what the manufacture along with the architect had designed for this house.

I see no shear on the walls but it's a picture and who really knows. The wall has no shear on it and even if it was an old drywall shear wall it has no bracing for that and, the truss does not appear to be a 3 point truss with shear in the attic, so if the wall is not blocked to the truss and has no shear (plywood, metal, or drywall) then it is most likely not a shear wall.

To me the most important problem is he has no permit... Like I have said before I have to have a permit to do anything and this is a good example of why. I do not care who has more experiance in the field, if it's not done right it should not be done.
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:58 PM   #25
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Removing walls


Sorry to be a nasty pest on this post but call in architect or at least show us some pics of the foundation holding all this all up.

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