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-   -   Questions on tying 6x8 exposed header to top plate (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/questions-tying-6x8-exposed-header-top-plate-72637/)

EDI 06-02-2010 10:35 AM

Questions on tying 6x8 exposed header to top plate
 
Greetings All,

My latest DIY project on fixing up my 1970's ranch involved removing some walls and installing an opening between the existing livingroom and kitchen.

I chose to use 6x8" (actual) solid pine beam for an exposed header.

When installing I cut out the double top plate and installed the header flush with the remaining plate on both sides of the wall.

Given that the span is 8' i used double jack studs on both sides and added a king stud on one side with spacers to rest it against the existing stud.

Question is, given that i have separated the double top plate in the wall, do i need to tie the two separated sections of wall to the header somehow?

the 7th edition MA building code says where the top plate is omited use 3x6 steel plates and six 8d nails on either end; would this be affixed on top of the plate and header?

here is a (albeit bad) picture of what i'm doing:
p.s. this picture doesn't show the king stud on the left side or the spacers.


http://www.edigames.com/newbeam.jpg


any help is greatly appreciated!

-Raymond

EDI 06-02-2010 02:30 PM

Here is an illustration that might help show what I'm asking:

http://edigames.com/walldiagram1.gif

Gary in WA 06-02-2010 08:33 PM

You need steel straps at each end, both sides, or on top: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...S-HST-LSTA.asp

1. What is the load above?

2. Why net- 6x8, is it green?

3. Did you solid block in the floor space below the jacks to the beam or crawl/basement below?

Be safe, Gary

EDI 06-03-2010 08:19 AM

so tying from the top of the top plate to the top of the beam at both ends of the beam should be sufficient then?

1. What is the load above?

Will be a second floor; width of the house is 24', builder is going to use solid 24' joists so im guessing the outer walls will be taking most of the load?

2. Why net- 6x8, is it green?

it's rough sawn lumber, company said it was seasoned.

3. Did you solid block in the floor space below the jacks to the beam or crawl/basement below?

nope, but I sure will, thanks!

Gary in WA 06-03-2010 08:27 PM

"so tying from the top of the top plate to the top of the beam at both ends of the beam should be sufficient then?" ----- Yes, use at least a 3' heavier duty one on each end. The Inspector should pass that......

"Will be a second floor; width of the house is 24', builder is going to use solid 24' joists so im guessing the outer walls will be taking most of the load?" ------- Yes, compare to 4-2x8's: http://ftp.resource.org/bsc.ca.gov/t...2_page0376.pdf

I'd ask to see the paper work on the beam. A green 6x8 (S.P. #2) will support only 70# per lin.ft. with a rating in fiber bending of 975. But the same beam with 15% moisture content has a rating of fb 1300 psi. Big difference with your 12' loaded joists x 8' span x 50#per.sq.ft. rating for floors on a total load.

1. Is it #2?

2. What is the fiber bending rating on the stamp or modulus of elasticity rating on the side in ink?

Be safe, Gary


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